THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, January 5, 1856. 
therefore, be desirable to adopt that plan, except with a Tine 
or two, merely as an experiment, and with the approbation 
of your employer. If you do so, remember that success will 
depend on not leaving a single perceptible bud on your A ine 
rod; and also in having the whole rod, or stem, in an equal 
temperature as the sap begins to flow. The reasons for this 
we need not recapitulate. If you should do so, we shall be 
glad to know the result. Your safest plan is just to con¬ 
tent yourself with your present spurs tor next year's crop, 
and grow a fresh shoot from the base to act as a iuture 
stem in I860. In doing so next summer, leave less laterals 
on the bearing-shoots from the spurs, and leave them on the 
young-growing shoot from the base ; which will thus increase 
in strength, whilst its free extension will keep up a free root- 
action, though the laterals on the bearing-shoots beside it be 
nearly all removed. Of course, the bearing-shoots on the 
highest part of the main stem will retain some laterals until 
the young shoot reaches them, and is itselt throwing out 
laterals; and as this takes place, the whole of the laterals 
from the bearing-spurs may be removed, and themselves 
shortened, if there be much growth beyond the fruit. The 
object of this is just to have enough vigour in the bearing- 
spurs to mature the fruit, while much of the growing vigour 
of the Vine shall be centred in the young shoot. As autumn 
approaches, the first-formed laterals on that must also be 
I removed, that wood and buds may be ripe, as well as strong. 
Before the end of the season gradually remove all the laterals.] 
TRITONIA AUREA. 
“ I have a fine plant of the Tritonia a urea in the open 
ground, which has lately sent up six fine flower-spikes. The 
first frost, I imagine, will cut them oil*. "What must 1 do to 
insure an earlier bloom next autumn ? ” — A. P. 
[We are in the same fix just now. We sowed a large 
packet of seeds of this Tritonia , this time last year ; and in 
May we turned out the seedlings into a loose, rich bed, with¬ 
out disturbing the balls ; and this being the most thirsty of 
all the African bulbs, we gave them abundance of water re¬ 
gularly, through the summer. They made a rapid and luxu¬ 
riant growth, but showed no signs of flowering. In October 
we took them up in the balls, put them into large pots, wliich 
we placed in a cold frame, and now they are as green as ever. 
We left out some of them, and mulched them well against 
the frost, and they shall have two or three folds of mats over 
them in hard weather, and next July and August we expect 
to have them in splendid bloom ; but we shall not plant out 
the pot ones till early in May. When out of the pots, we 
I shall repeat the heavy watering three or four times a week. 
Your bulbs, like our own, were too young to bloom : but cut 
off the flowering attempts at once, and either take up the 
bulbs and pot them, or make sure against frost. Water 
abundantly after the middle of May ; and you will see, pro- 
; bably, a bloom worth being proud of.] 
REPLANTING TINES. 
I am convinced my Tines, planted seven years, have got 
too deep in a rich compost—they make strong, pithy wood ; 
and, though I get some large, showy bunches, they shank and 
shrivel before ripening, and are neither well-coloured, nor 
well-flavoured. I propose lifting them about January, choos¬ 
ing mild weather ; placing the roots hi fresh compost within 
six or eight inches of the surface; covering the border with 
j fermenting materials to give the roots a temperature of about 
70' ; and then commencing to force about the second week of 
February. Am I likely to succeed ? Shall I be doing right ?” 
—Pottee. 
[In answering the last, we would revert to the old proverb 
about its being better to do a thing late than never ; and that 
is pretty well all the encouragement we can give. We should 
have more hopes of your succeeding, if, instead of forcing at 
all, you allowed the Tines to break naturally the first year. 
The extra heat given to the border, will then be useful for 
securing reciprocal action. The mode you propose, and 
stimulating the roots (more or less injured,) before you excite 
the buds, are the best mode you could adopt for securing suc¬ 
cess ; and if everytliing should turn out favourably, you will 
so far command it. But, if January should be too cold for 
performing such an operation, and if February should be 
snowy and frosty, you need not greatly grieve if, from such 
circumstances, you are forced to put oft* your operations to 
the end of September, or the beginning of October. The earth 
is then warm : and if the foliage bt> kept green and unflagged 
by means of shading and syringing, your border will be well 
supplied with fresh roots, before you think of exciting the 
buds. Though then you may succeed, just as you propose; 
you will be surer of success, if you keep the Tines late. In 
order that you may not be too much daunted, we would tell 
you that a friend of ours raised the roots of his Tines in the 
first days of March, covered the border with fifteen inches of 
warmish tree leaves, strewed with long dung on the surface 
to prevent them blowing about; opened the house, back and 
front, to the action of the weather ; and, in hot sunny days 
threw a thick canvass cloth over the roof; thus delaying, as 
much as possible, the swelling of the buds. With great care 
in this respect, lie ripened a very fair crop; and his Tines 
were in fine bearing condition afterwards. Let it be clearly 
understood, however, that replanting in autumn involves least 
trouble and risk ; and early in autumn, while it requires more 
care, makes future success more certain.] 
GRAFTING AND INARCHING TINES. 
“ Several of my Tines are very inferior; and one of my 
friends has sent me three or four buds on a shoot, of as many 
sorts as will do for replacing them, by young plants grafting 
or inarching. But my neighbours tell me that, though the 
stock and the scion are suitable, I could not hope to succeed 
with grafting; and I know as little about inarching. Do 
give me some hints.”—A Young Gardener. 
[There can be no question that Tines may be most success¬ 
fully grafted. It is best done at two periods. Either just 
before the sap begins to rise, and then there will be no 
bleeding; or, when the scion is kept retarded, and the stock 
is excited into full leaf, when it may be cut over without any 
risk of bleeding, and the retarded scion inserted. By the 
latter mode, the junction takes place sooner; but, of course, 
it cannot be adopted where the house in which the stock is 
kept is not forced pretty early. It matters very little how 
the grafting is done, if the inner bark of the stock and the 
scion meet. When wood is plentiful, we prefer having a piece 
with two buds for a scion: the one to stand out for the young 
shoot; and the other to be cut through as the base of the 
scion. Thus, if we adopted side-grafting, we should remove 
piece of the side of the stock, and a similar piece from the 
side of the scion, with a cross cut at the lower bud for its 
base ; and very likely we should make a cross cut in the stock 
too, that the end of the scion might rest upon it. Tie clav, 
in the usual manner, to keep out air; and place a little moss 
round the bud to keep it moist. This (where the stock has 
not previously been brought into full leaf), should be done 
about eight days before you expect the sap to move much; 
and after being done, the house may be very gradually in¬ 
creased in temperature. Next to side-grafting, we prefer cleft 
or wedge-grafting. And though, in this case, the base of the 
scion must be made very thin; still, we like it, however thin, 
to terminate where the bud stood ; though we have wedge- 
grafted with a single bud frequently. Inarching, as respects 
the Tine, takes place when the shoot of the stock and the 
shoot of the young plant are growing freely, but have also 
arrived at a little consistency. For instance, if a young plant 
began to grow hi March, and the shoot on the stock shortly 
afterwards, then inarching might take place about Mav or 
June, or earlier. You bring the young plant and its pot to 
the side of the stock. Choose where the junction should take 
place ; remove with a sharp knife the soft skin of the shoot 
from the stock. Do the same with the suitable part of the 
young plant in the pot; tie them together, keep out the air. 
and keep the part moist; nip out the top of the shoot from 
the stock ; and, as the union takes place, shorten still more the 
shoot from the stock. Cut half through the stem below the 
junction, and between that and the pot. Ere long, cut it awaj 
altogether, and also cut back, within a foot or so, the shool 
from the stock ; and the inarched fresh shoot will soon mono' 
polise the whole strength of the old plant. 
