THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, July 19, 1859. 221 
WEEKLY CALENDAR. 
Day 
of 
M’nth 
Day 
of* 
Week. 
JULY 19—25, 1859. 
Weather near Lone 
Barometer. Thermom. 
ON IN 18 
Wind. 
58. 
Rain in 
Inches. 
Sun 
Rises. 
Sun 
Sets. 
Moon 
Rises j Moon’s 
and Setsj Age. 
Clock 
be f. Sun 
Day of 
Year. 
19 
Tu 
Falkia repens. 
30.126—30.026 
79—42 
N. 
_ 
6 af 4 
5 af 8 
41 a 9 19 
5 
5G 
200 
20 
W 
Ilovea longifolia. 
29.995—29.681 
78—54 
S.W. 
.03 
8 
4 
4 8 
52 9 i 20 
G 
0 
201 
21 
Th 
Sun’s declin. 20° 33' n. 
29.822—29.718 
72—42 
w. 
— 
9 
4 
3 8 
3 10 21 
G 
4 
202 
22 
F 
Ilinnea elegans. 
29.929—29.889 
70—56 
S.W. 
.12 
10 
4 
2 8 
18 10 | 22 
G 
203 
23 
S 
Ilinnea hydrangea. 
29.898—29.404 
80—54 
S.W. 
.04 
12 
4 
1 8 
35 10 <2 
6 
9 
204 
24 
Sun 
5 Sunday after Trinity. 
29.803—29.479 
74—57 
S.4V. 
.02 
13 
4 
VII. 
1 11 24 
G 
11 
205 
2.5 
M 
St. James. Ducii’s. Camb. b. 1797 
29.698—29.410 
74—47 
w. 
— 
15 
4 
58 7 
37 11 i 25 
6 
12 
20G 
Meteorology op the Week.— At Chiswick, from .observations during the last thirty-two years, the average highest and lowest 
temperatures of these days are 73.1° and 51.8°, respectively. The greatest heat, 89°, occurred on the 23rd, in 1854 ; and the lowest cold, 39°, 
on the 19tli, in 1851. During the period 12C days were fine, and on 98 rain fell. 
IN-DOOR GARDENING OPERATIONS EOR 
THE WEEK. 
STOYE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 
Calceolarias (Herbaceous).—Sow seeds ; the compost 
to be equal parts of peat or leaf mould, loam, and rotten 
dung, with a small portion of sand. Place a layer of 
broken crocks two inches thick at the bottom of the pot; 
then fill up within half an inch of the rim with the com¬ 
post, passed through a fine seive. After the pot has 
been gently struck on the potting-bench to settle the soil, 
the surface must then be made level with a flat piece of 
wood, or the bottom of a small garden pan or saucer. 
Sprinkle the seeds regularly over the surface, do not cover 
with soil, and water with a fine rose; then to be placed in 
a cold frame, and be kept shaded from the sun. 
Chorozema. —The beauty of this genus for early spring 
display is generally appreciated, and, therefore, requires 
no commendation from me. They delight, like most other 
New Holland plants, in sandy peat containing plenty of 
fibre, and require plenty of air at all times, and also to be 
kept constantly moist, but never very wet. A large pot 
and frequent stopping will soon produce a fine specimen. 
Epacris. —The varieties of this genus are most useful 
for the adornment of the conservatory in early spring. 
They delight in fibrous peat, broken rough, mixed with 
fine white sand. The young plants to be frequently 
stopped by pinching off the points of the shoots while 
growing, to induce them to throw out laterals; those 
again to be stopped until the plants have attained a size 
sufficient to warrant their blooming. 
Eutaxia myrtifolia. — It is a profuse and early 
bloomer. During the summer and autumn every new 
shoot should be stopped as soon as it has attained two 
or, at most, three joints : by such treatment it can be 
easily formed into a neat, compact specimen. 
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE. 
Pay every attention to specimen plants in the stove. 
Keep them neatly tied to sticks, or trellises, as the case 
may require. Give them a plentiful supply of water, and, 
if not in flower, syringe them frequently over-head. 
Stanhopeas.— About the end of this or the beginning 
of next month is the most proper time to remove and re¬ 
pot them. Persons who wish to grow fine specimens 
ought to put them in large baskets, or pots, so that they 
may not require to be shifted for several years, as then 
the plants grow much finer and flower better than when 
annually shifted. Now,-as soon as they have done 
flowering they commence growing, when they should 
have plenty of heat and moisture until they have com¬ 
pleted their pseudo-bulbs, when they should be reduced 
to a comparative state of rest by gradually withholding 
water until they show flower; then to be supplied with 
atmospheric moisture, but should have no water at the 
root, or at least but a small portion, until they begin to 
grow. As all the plants belonging to this genus push 
their flowers downwards, it is advisable to have them 
elevated, or put in baskets, where the flowers can get 
through and show themselves to advantage. 
No. 564.— Yol. XXII. No. 16. 
FORCING-HOUSES. 
Figs. — Give the fruit that is ripening the benefit of 
the sun, by fastening on one side the leaves that shade it. 
Peaches. —Keep the late house cool and airy, to pro¬ 
long the supply of fruit as much as possible. 
Pines. —See to the stools from which fruit have beem 
cut. Earth them up, so as to cause suckers to strike 
root. Give them a brisk bottom heat, and proper sup¬ 
plies of water. You will thus gain time and assistance 
for the suckers from the declining strength of the parent 
plant as long as possible. It is now a good time to start 
a lot into fruit, as they will have two or three most favour¬ 
able months for swelling, and will come in at a season 
when they are in very general recpiest. Keep the bark- 
bed moderately moist, as in that state it will retain its 
heat much longer than if it is allowed to get dry. 
Tines. —The outside borders of the late houses should 
be watered and mulched, if the weather continue dry. 
William Keane. 
MANAGEMENT OE ROSE CUTTINGS. 
A quantity of hybrid perpetual Roses which I pro¬ 
pagated this time last year from cuttings out of doors, 
full in the sun, with no glass or shade of any kind over 
them, had a most unfortunate set off this spring; the}' 
were caught in the late frosts, and the early young wood 
was “ done ” for. The young wood of the Deodars, and 
the top shoots of Pinus insignis, and the top and bottom 
shoots, side shoots, and all, of Gujoressus fimebris, at the 
Experimental, were just done for like my poor Roses. 
They have all righted themselves, except th efunebris, by 
this time, and I have made an experiment worth record¬ 
ing to restore the young frost-bitten Roses; but, like 
many other really good experiments, whether on man or 
beast, or on a Rose bush, it was a kill-or-cure one. I have 
no faith in a lingering cure. Depend upon it, if a physician 
took months and months to cure an Emperor of a malady, 
the way the cure was brought about was by Nature 
effecting her own purposes in her own way, contrary to 
the ways of his doctor; but, of course, the doctor could 
come in at the end of the cure, and take the credit of 
curing an Emperor ; and it'is just the same in gardening. 
We, too, have doctors of all degrees, from the real Doctor, 
my worthy friend, to the Irish doctor who extemporises 
on the make and fashion of flower-beds, and from them 
down to the roots of all the degrees. But any one of 
them who may dally with a sickly plant for a whole 
season may take credit to himself, and expect the same 
from others, but is not a bit better worthy of it than those 
who thought they cured an Emperor : and to put faith in 
the prescriptions of such doers is like leaning on a 
broken reed. If you merely hold on to the reed you are 
safe enough, and so you would be without it; but if you 
incline against the reed, so as to get off the centre of 
gravity, down you go, and it is all up with the experiment 
on the lingering system. But to be safe with a fast ex¬ 
periment in our line, one would need to know the laws 
and rules which govern the life and growth of plants 
