73 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, November 1, 1859. 
remarks may bo useful to some of my younger brethren.— 
J. Evans. 
[Very good; indeed nothing could be better than your mode 
of propagating. But what about the large heads ? Just let us 
know the size of the flower-heads when they do come; and if 
they will be one-half of the size of those round St. Paul’s, we 
must have a leaf out of your book.] 
TRITON!A AUREA CULTURE. 
Would you kindly tell me how to treat my Tritoma aureas ? 
They are grown in the open ground, and are hardly out of flower; 
but instead of trying to make new bulbs above the old ones, like 
the Gladiolus, Ixia, Sparaxis, &c., each old bulb has sent out 
four or five suckers, growing horizontally, and shewing no 
tendency at present to come to the surface, and rooted at each 
joint like Couch Grass, or Lilies of the Valley. Many are nearly 
twice as long. Would they not grow and form a bulb from 
every joint where they are rooted ?—[Yes.] 
I cannot apply the directions given in the Vol. for 1855, 
p. 255, of The Cottage Gakdeneb, to my bulbs, as I cannot 
leave them in the ground any longer, nor did I wish to take 
them up before the new growth had commenced, when they were 
in full flower.—C. W. 
[The old bulbs, with the travelling suckers attached, should be 
taken up and potted, and kept a little moist all the winter, and 
in Pebruary the suckers should bo taken off and potted like 
cuttings round a pot, and be kept growing on all the spring, 
and be planted out by the end of May. If the old roots have 
any fresh leaves in February, keep them watered also ; if not, they 
may bo let to rest for six weeks. We treat this plant as an ever¬ 
green, and have it in bloom till December.] 
TRADE LIST RECEIVED. 
Forest Trees , Shrubs, Sfc. Feter Lawson Sf Son, Fdinburgh 
and London. This is a good Catalogue of hardy trees and 
shrubs, deciduous and evergreen, conveniently grouped,—viz., 
“ Firs for Timber,” Plants for Shrubberies and Underwood,” 
“Weeping Trees,” &c. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
Small Farm (Subscriber).- —You had better advertise in our columns, or 
iu the papers of the county in which you wish the farm to be situated. 
Frosted Geraniums ( A Constant Subscriber). —You will have seen what 
Mr. Beaton said last week. The only chanco of saving them is to cut them 
down close to the ground, and house them where no frost can reach them. 
Verbenas (B. II. IF .).—-The following arc the names of the best twelve 
Verbenas for planting out in borders:—Scarlet, Robinson’s Defiance. 
Next shade of scarlet, General Simpson. Dark scarlet, Ocant des Batailles. 
i'urplc, Purple King. White, Mrs. llolford. Blush, Etiole tie Venus. 
Lilac, none. Fink, Duchess of Northumberland. Bose, Madame Bandinal. 
Fancy, Imperatrice Josephine. Mulberry, Wonderful. The way we should 
like to see Verbenas in all their colours would be to put three shades of 
each colour, and then to break the series with a white or very dark one : 
the lights to he separated by Wonderful or Purple King, and the reds by 
Mrs. llolford. 
General Index ( Carrig Cathol). —You will have seen an answer in our 
last number. 
Various (II. J. A., Pembroke Dock ).—All our volumes are in print, 
price 8 s. each. F’ortune’s Yellow Bose might succeed on an east wall at 
the back of a kitchen if properly managed. Sawdust would do for mulch¬ 
ing, in the absence of better material. We would avoid Oak sawdust, on 
account of its astringent constituents. The contents of a cesspool mixed 
or unmixed with ashes would not be too strong for Boses. 
Orchard-house (An Old Subscriber). —Mr. Bivers’s little work, “ The 
Orchard-house,” of which a new edition has just appeared, will give you 
all the information you need. 
Malaria op the Indian Jungles (An Old Indian). —Wo fear that it is 
not the carbonic acid gas emitted by the leaves of living trees at night, 
but the earburetted hydrogen, phosphuretted hydrogen, and other results 
of putrescent vegetation. Against these eontaminators of the blood 
chemistry has not yet detected a remedy ; and, if long inhaled, whether 
in the jungles of India, the fens of Lincolnshire, or the ill-drained alleys 
of a city, iow prostrating fever is the consequence. We have had too 
many valued friends its victims in India not to feel as deeply on the 
subject as yourself. 
Shanking in Grapes ( A Regular Subscriber). — During the winter 
months keep the outside roots gf the Vines covered a foot deep with long- 
stable manure, and over tint a tarpaulin, or other material, to exclude 
excessive cold and wet. Shanking is caused by the roots not supplying sap 
sufficiently fast to keep pace with the growth of the fruit. It is the same 
as gangrene and sloughing- in the human frame, caused by the want of 
a sufficient supply of blood to the part. 
Conservatory and Greenhouse (If. M. Mannamead). —There will he 
quite enough of sunlight for the purpose mimed. Plenty of good Vines 
even are grown without more sunlight; in old lean-to houses facing the 
south, and opaque wails at each end, they would not get more. The 
flowering plants most suitable to such a place will do very well. Chloro¬ 
form has been tried by practical bee-masters, and found fatal to the bees. 
We should like to hear of more extensive and varied experiments with it. 
Hornets (A Neiv Subscriber). —If you destroy their nests, and suffocate 
the inhabitants at night, you probably will not be visited by the same 
land of marauders next year. 
Grapes without Bloom (Stockton-on-Tees). —We can give no reason 
under the circumstances for the want of size and bloom, except the Vines 
receiving a sudden check. We believe your Grapes would have been 
better if you had given no artificial heat at all, except a very little just 
when they were in bloom. If tire heat were used until the end of June, 
and then stopped all at once, and especially with the ventilators open 
night and day, there might be a sudden check by a. reduction of tempera¬ 
ture on a cold night, which the Vines would not have felt so much if they 
had not been used to fire heat. After June we have weather warm enough 
to suit the Vine in general; hut if heat has been given, that heat should 
he applied any time in the season, when cold nights and wet, cloudy days 
render such a stimulant necessary. If this care and attention cannot be 
given, then the less fire heat the Vines have before they ripen the better 
they will do. Try less heat, more ventilation, fewer bunches, and the 
hunches more severely thinned. 
Oleander Culture (S. W. F.). —We have previously, and not very 
long ago, given explicit information on this subject. We will just repeat 
the main points. The Oleander naturally is a marsh plant and a dry-baked 
mud plant alternately. It blooms uniformly at the points of the shoots, 
made and ripened the previous season. These facts furnish the rationale 
of successful culture. Any light soil may be used when the plant is young, 
but when established the soil should be good stiff loam, with a fair portion 
of rotten cowdung. The treatment, however, is more important than the 
soil. Here, for instance, is a plant cut down, and commencing to grow 
in March; encourage it as much as possible with water and a fair amount of 
! heat. Thin out the young shoots, so as to let those left have plenty of air 
and light. No stopping of shoots intended to bloom next season must 
he thought about. Wherever grown, harden off so as to get the plants 
out of doors by the beginning- of August, and for a few days keep them in 
a shady place; then iuli in the sun; watering as they require it. By the 
middle of September place them against a south wall, and give uot a 
drop more water than will keep the leaves from flagging. Take means 
to jn-cvent them being soaked with rains. House before frost; a cool 
greenhouse^ will do. Keep them dryish and cool all the winter ; and 
as soon as the heat of the spring increases, or you put them into heat, then 
water must be gradually given ; and as fresh growth commences the flower- 
buds at the points will show themselves. When the plants are intended 
to bloom every year, there must be a number of young shoots coming on 
to replace those that are flowering, which may be cut out as soon as the 
flowering is over, and that will throw more strength into the succession- 
shoots, which must be managed as above. 
Clematis lanuginosa—Tritoma uvaria (PaulRicaut).—Clematis lanu¬ 
ginosa with a west aspect and rich loamy soil, on a dry bottom, and to be 
planted the first fine day. We cannot say how high it will grow. It has 
not been long enough in cultivation to tell that. We removed six 
splendid plants of Tritoma uvaria this 25th of October for our front 
garden, made the soil as if for a Grape Vine, docked off five feet of the 
length of the leaves, and left about eighteen inches of the stumps. We 
shall treat it in summer as a marsh plant, and at the crystal lake of the 
Crystal Palace it will be seen, next year, in opposite pairs as a water-plant 
standing on pots with an inch of water over them. Now is the best time 
to move this plant. It should never be potted in the autumn ; but when it 
is intended for a pot, this is the time to begin with it, by taking it up, 
cutting down the leaves as low as ours, and, in addition, to cut hack all tlic 
roots to six inches, then to plant it out in some warm place in rich and 
very light compost of rotten leaves, rotten dung, and the sweepings of the 
framing-ground and potting-shed. In this it will root away all the winter, 
and when the leaves push up two or three inches in April, take it up and 
pot it in a very large pot, in Grape-Vine soil. The quantity of fibrous 
roots will then be enormous. After the end of May the pot should stand 
in a saucer all the summer, and the saucer he kept full of water all the 
time. Even out on the lawn, there is no end to the water it will take, and 
eward us for it most abundantly. 
Daphne Leaves turning Yellow (A Lover of Flowers). —The plant, 
late as it is, must he repotted, disturbing the roots as little as possible. 
Give it at once, before repotting, some weak liquid manure. The plant is 
starving. The Ice-plant, Mescmbryanthemum crystallinum, is an annual, 
and fresh plants require raising from seed every year. 
Heating by IIot Water (A Constant Subscriber). — Notwithstanding 
your sketch we do not exactly know the size of your house; the lights 
i rest on a parapet five feet in height at one end, and what height at the 
other end we cannot make out, though somewhat high, so as to form a 
j conservatory. If the height is considerable, your two single inch-pipes 
will not he enough. We should like a more concave or saddle-back form for 
your boiler above the gas-burners, so as to have as much heat absorbed as 
possible. The two-gallon flower-pot as a cistern is a good idea, and so i6 
the air or escape pipe. 
Flower Garden Plan (T. F. L ,).— There is not one inch more to 
spare on your beautiful front lawn to plant on. Two or three Bhodo- 
dendrons might just be planted on the grass, in the centre between 
the two composition flower-beds, and not more than lour feet from the 
walk, but we prefer it as it is. The two farthest-off beds in each group 
should he yellow and scarlet—say, 15 and 18, yellow Calceolarias, and 1(1 
and 19, scarlet Geraniums. The rest of the beds to “ work ” from each 
centre, 1 and 31; 20 should be scarlet, 24 white, 33 yellow, and 35 scarlet 
or bright rose; 21 white, and 23 yellow, all in the farthest group ; 8 and 11 
white; and 9 scarlet or purple ; 14 yellow ; and the rest just as you fancy, 
any colours in any way will come right, if you keep our colours as here put, 
and size the plants to the extent of each bed. If your first plan bad been 
filled up, we would have been at sixes and sevens with you next season. 
Bkmodelling a Garden — List of Boses (A New Subscriber). —Your 
plan for remodelling your new place is exceedingly good, and will make 
an Elysium of it, Wc can see nothing that requires altering, and without 
being on the spot, we could not tell well how to do so. We never give plans 
