110 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, November 22, 1859. 
this treatment. As it is, the after-shoots of the Quickset 
become mildewed and useless, and the whole plant is 
scarcely any stronger than it was the preceding season : 
whereas, if the plant were allowed to grow out and ripen 
its shoots, as Nature intended it should do, these shoots 
might be cut down to any required amount in winter, and 
a strong vigorous growth the ensuing season would be the 
result. Therefore, bear in mind to cut young Quicksets 
only in the autumn or winter. Keeping them clear from 
weeds at all times is necessary ; and if there are any gaps 
let them be filled up as required. If the fence is yours, 
there will, most likely, be a ditch on the side of your 
neighbour’s, which you must clear out and keep free. 
At the same time you have the privilege of planting fruit 
trees if you like in the Quickset hedge; and a few 
Damson or common Plums, on six-feet standards, may 
be planted with advantage. The Damson will be very 
useful, and on a still’ soil it is most productive, as, like¬ 
wise, are other Plums. Apples and Pears do not thrive so 
well, and Cherries are so liable to be destroyed by birds, 
that I would not advise their being planted; but as 
directions hereafter will be given on this point, it need 
not be entered into here. 
AUTUMN OF THE THIRD SEASON. 
If all have gone on well, the crops will be thus :— 
60 rods Grass, now getting to be a nice sward. 
100 „ Clover lea, which being about exhausted, may now 
be broken up for other crops. 
80 „ Clover, young plants that had been sown amongst 
the corn, this to stand for principal crop of next 
year. 
20 „ of Potatoes or some green crop. 
This being the state of the cropping at the end of this 
season, we may now take a retrospect of the past and 
determine for the future in another chapter. 
J. Kobson. 
(To he continued.) 
THE PEUNINGr SEASON. 
The fall of the leaf reminds us of those autumnal proceedings 
which return with the return of years. Amongst the rest is the 
present subject; which, although formerly considered a winter 
or spring piece of business, has now assumed another shape. 
Gardening in 1859 is not what it was forty years since : there are 
now three times as much spring business as in those times. 
Pruning then was understood to be an employment for the dead 
of winter, when folks could do nothing else ; but now the dead of 
winter has double duties to perform in many cases. Indeed 
there is more humanity abroad. It is not considered even good 
policy now to set men to prune trees amongst the snow; or to 
keep an unfortunate nailing during a sharp frost, when it lakes 
half his time to buffet and blow his fingers. 
Put as to pruning, training, dressing, &c., which, to be done in 
March, would tend to damage the whole foundation of the 
summer’s business—how much better it is, as a gardening policy, 
to push it forward in autumn. Another point may be named. 
There are certain operations connected with the roots of the trees 
or borders which cannot be well carried out until the former 
operations are concluded. But many trees require dressing on 
the heels of priming; and in my opinion the earlier in the winter 
they are dressed the better. Bush fruits may very properly be 
pruned first, and Raspberries ; then I would take ordinary 
standards or orchard trees ; then Pears, Apples, Plums, Cherries, 
&c. Peaches and Nectarines may-stand over until the end of 
January; and the Apricots until they begin to show the blossom- 
bud, as they often blossom on the young spray. 
Of Gooseberries it has been said that you may thin out as you 
like, but not shorten them ; but I do not agree with so sweeping 
an assertion. I have shortened my Gooseberries for years, and 
find them better for it; not, however, wholesale, but removing all 
straggling points. By this practice I find that the fruit is 
gathered in half the time, and with much less pricking of fingers. 
Red Currants require well shortening, or their stems become 
naked of spurs : of course all side-spray will be spurred back. 
White Cun-ants furnish their stems much better, and need little 
I shortening. Black Currants require well thinning, but not 
shortening, unless any shoots run inconveniently high. Rasp¬ 
berries are generally reduced to about four or five good canes, 
and these shortened to four or five feet. 
With regard to orchard trees. Those of size and age merely 
require the interior barren or decaying branches removed, and all 
small spray springing in the interior from the older branches. 
At the same time dead or decaying points may be removed. 
Y ounger Apple trees in the kitchen garden require chiefly super- 
! fluous spray to be removed, and occasionally an older branch 
taken away. Many of these are better with their points shortened 
back, and that in proportion t o their strength. From eight to 
ten inches are enough length to be left under any circumstances 
on trees under a dwarfing system. If left their full length, the 
consequence would be that bushes would speedily become trees, 
and people would say, “ How your garden is overgrown! These 
Apple trees surely shade things too much.” But the day is gone 
by for permitting overgrown fruit trees in kitchen gardens. To 
revert to the orchard trees. There is no need for much shortening 
here. They are required to rise and to extend; and under such 
circumstances will yield a far greater produce than the dwarfed 
! trees of the kitchen garden. 
Pears deserve especial notice. One thing is certain—that we 
must not allow them to become smothered : the retained wood 
must have light, and more light than Apples require. Therefore 
all spray whatever, or breastwood, unless intended for the tying- 
down system, must be removed—it is spurs we want. Ordinary 
English orchard Pears will do almost anyhow : not so our finer 
and more delicate varieties. It is also necessary occasionally to 
shorten the shoots ; but when the latter require much shortening 
it is high time they were root-pruned. Plums require a little 
handling—the removal of intrusive breast-spray, and occasionally 
a shortening of long shoots. Cherries require very little of the 
knife—no tree so little. Peaches and Nectarines are well known 
to require much thinning under the old system; but by the 
pinching plan there will be little for the pruner’s knife. 
Apricots I would not prune until the last; not, indeed, until 
j the character of the buds could be determined by the first stage 
of development in March. No man can determine with pre¬ 
cision what are not blossom-buds when the trees are quite 
dormant; although he can easily tell which are, if in the character 
of natural spurs. 
I will, to sum up, offer a scale to assist the beginner, showing 
the needs of each fruit as to light; and I will place them con¬ 
secutively, beginning with those that demand the greatest amount, 
and the others in due order. This may assist the young pruner. 
The Tine. 
The Apricot. 
The Peach. 
The Pear. 
The Plum. 
The Cherry. 
The Apple. 
The Currant, 
The Gooseberry. 
The Raspberry. 
The Black Currant. 
By this order of fruits any novice may guess the amount of 
thinning required during the rest period, as also have a guide to 
the disbudding or stopping process during the growing period. I 
do not say that it is an infallible guide, but will convey a toler¬ 
able idea of such procedures. 
But, after all, it is pitiful to see the necessity that exists for 
much pruning, and to know that by proper precautions at plant¬ 
ing time much of this labour might be saved. How is it that 
we meet with Pear trees, in various parts, of great size, and laden 
with grey-haired honours, which bear bushels year after year, 
yet never pruned ? Instead of producing rods fit for basket work, 
make young shoots annually of about three to six inches in 
length. And only observe full-grown Thorn trees in the park, 
laden annually with their crimson treasures,—no pruning, no 
manure. But some one may say, “ I do not manure my trees in 
my kitchen garden.” Be it so ; but, admitting no powerful 
manures are applied, do such persons constantly bear in mind 
that all such gardens abound in humus, which is a mighty pro¬ 
moter of an over-rapid root action, although not, perhaps, coming 
under the denomination of a high stimulant ? 
But the old Pear trees before quoted and the old park Thorns 
are not growing in a similar soil to that which has growm Celery, 
Cabbages, &c., for many years. That soil is what may be called 
primitive; it knows neither the spade nor the wheelbarrow. 
Since, then, our trees in gardens will bother us so with pruning, 
my advice is, strike at the root of the affair,—root prune. This 
is not practised half so much as it deserves, for it is only yet half 
appreciated. I, therefore, beg again to direct the attention of 
the readers of The Cottage Gardener to its importance; they 
