THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, January 10, 1860. 
229 
4. 
Bloodgood 
Suffolk Thom 
St. Denis 
Thompson’s 
Beurre Superfin 
Catinka 
Fondante d’Automne 
Knight’s Monarch 
Comte de Lamy 
Josephine de Malines 
Marie Louise 
Van do Weyer Bates 
Yat 
0 . 
Beurre Duval 
Beurre Goubault 
Doyenne Defais 
Yineuse 
Forelle 
Jersey Gratioli 
Huy she’s Bergamot 
Eyewood 
L’lnconuue 
Rondelet 
Beurr4 de Ranee 
Vallee Franche 
6. 
Figue de Naples 
Beurre Benoit 
Comte de Flandres 
Navez Peintre 
Rousselet Enfant Prodigue 
Doyenne Boussoch 
Alexandre Bivort 
Duchesse d’Orleans 
Jean de Witte 
Paradise d’Automne 
Cassante de Mars 
VARIETIES REQUIRING A WALL, 
OR WHICH ARE IMPROVED 
BY SUCH PROTECTION. 
Bergamotte Esperen 
Forelle 
Beurre Bose 
Gansel’s Bergamot 
Beurre Diel 
Glou Morceau 
Beurre de Ranee 
Knight’s Monarch 
Beurre Sterckmans 
Ne Plus M cur is 
Brown Beurre 
Passe Colmar 
Colmar 
Prince Albert 
Crassanne 
St. Germain 
Duchesse d’Angoulemo 
Van Mons Leon le Clerc 
Easter Beurre 
Winter Nelis 
IV. VARIETIES FOR ORCHARD STANDARDS. 
Aston Town 
Autumn Bergamot 
Beurre Capiaumont 
Bishop’s Thumb 
Caillot Rosat 
Croft Castle 
Eyewood 
Hampden’s Bergamot 
Hessle 
Jargonelle 
Jersey Gratioli 
Lammas 
Louise Bonne of Jersey 
Suffolk Thorn 
Swan’s Egg 
Williams’ Bon Chretien 
Windsor 
Winter Nelis 
Vallee Franche 
Yat 
V. VARIETIES FOR STEWING AND PRESERVING. 
Belmont 
Bezi d’lleri 
Black Worcester 
Catillac 
Flemish Bon Chretien 
Gilogil 
Yerulam 
Winter Franc Real 
(To he continued.) 
GEOWING EARLY-FLOWERING BULBS. 
Mr. Beaton, in his remarks on Covent Garden Market the 
other day, says, “They had the early Tulips, the single and 
double Yan Thol, in small 48-pots, and five or six in each pot, 
every one of which is as regularly and as timely bloomed as the 
rest.” Would he kindly say whether they employ any particular 
means to flower them simultaneously ? for until I had adopted 
the following plan I was annoyed by a single bulb or so throwing 
up its flower far in advance of its fellows. So soon as I have got 
my bulbs from the seedsman in September, I plant the Tulips j 
into shallow boxes three inches apart, and about two inches deep. 
Towards the latter end of October I select from the boxes a 
sufficient number of bulbs equally advanced in growth, and 
transplant them into 32 and 48-bulb pots. The pots are imme¬ 
diately plunged upon a hotbed at work—or it may be one pre¬ 
viously prepared for them, Hyacinths, &c., and when sufficiently 
filled with roots, are removed to the Cucumber-house, liberally ; 
supplied with water, and are in bloom by the first day of 
December. 
Perhaps the gardeners who supply Covent Garden Market 
have a better way of managing them, which I should be pleased 
to learn at Mr. Beaton’s convenience.—W. Craw. 
[Simple as this question seems, it is of much more importance 
to hundreds and thousands than that about the secret of govern¬ 
ing or conquering an empire. Our correspondent’s method of 
getting so many early Tulips to blow simultaneously in a pot is 
good enough in private practice; but where forty or fifty bushels 
of them are forced in the season that plan is too expensive. It 
is sufficient to place the bulbs close together with the root end 
downwards, and two inches of light loose earth under them, and 
as much over them as just to cover the points; then to water 
the bed and cover it to keep the “roots” in the dark. Then, 
when there is a fair start for leaves, the bulbs, or so many of 
them at a time, are lifted and potted according to their forward¬ 
ness, as he does. One of the essential requisites is to have the 
bulbs so placed as early in August as possible. 
Every bulb that is forced, and every bulb that is used in 
spring bedding out of doors, may be done as he docs his early 
Tulips on the private system, and as they do them for the market. 
And whether for forcing or for planting out, it is best for the 
future welfare of all these bulbs that they be put in earth before 
August is out. That side of the question is of a highly scientific 
importance.—D. Beaton.] 
STANDARD CHEYSANTIIEML T MS. 
Unless for some peculiar situation, standard Chrysanthemums 
are not desirable; but as our correspondent “ Rose ” wishes to 
grow them, she has a perfect right to do so. The objections to 
standards of this plant are:—First. The weight of the branches, 
leaves, and flowers would, we fear, break down the shoots, for 
they are very brittle just wdiere the shoots start from the main 
stem. Secondly. There would be a difficulty in preventing the 
shoots from so breaking off by tying them to stakes. And lastly, 
the Chrysanthemum is naturally a bushy-growing lialf-shrubby 
plant, sending up numerous suckers, and flowering at the ends of 
the shoots. 
All these objections may, however, be got over, if “ Rose ” is 
determined to adopt this novel mode of growing the Chrysan¬ 
themum ; and in order to succeed, she should begin now to form 
the plants for that purpose in the following way :— 
Choose strong-growing kinds, and take off the most forward 
cuttings, but do not take off the tops. Plant them singly in 
small pots, and place them in a gentle heat till they are rooted, 
then repot them in a larger pot, and repot again as soon as that 
pot is full of roots. Should any side-shoots or suckers appear, 
rub them off. By this time the weather will have become mild, 
and then these plants should be well staked and tied, and the pots 
plunged out of doors in a sheltered yet open place. The plants will, 
probably, be then a foot and a half higb, with a straight, simple 
stem. Remove the stakes and put longer and stronger ones in 
their place, taking care not to tie too tight. In this situation 
they may remain all the summer, and should have constant at¬ 
tention in watering and tying to the stakes, and keeping the stems 
single till the plants have reached the desired height. Then take 
off the extreme top to cause side-shoots to break forth to form 
the head, and as soon as these have attained any length, tie some 
sticks across to the stake in this form +, and 1o these crosses 
tie the shoots ; and as they advance in growth add more crosses 
till the shoots show the bloom-buds. If a willow or wire is tied 
to each end of these crossed sticks, the shoots may be more spread 
out to form a symmetrical head. As soon as the autumn 
approaches, if the plants are required for in-door decoration, let 
them be carefully lifted out of the soil with all the roots entire, 
and repotted in larger pots in very rich soil, and kept abundantly 
watered till the bloom is perfected. Such standards may be kept 
alive to the place whence the branches appear, by keeping them 
in a greenhouse free from frost and moderately supplied with 
water throughout the winter, reducing the balls in spring, and 
placing them out of doors t hrough the ensuing summer as before. 
Attention to keeping down the green fly in the usual way must 
be constantly paid. By following this method, no doubt “Rose” 
may attain the desired purpose. We should be glad to know 
with what success. 
BUTTERFLIES. 
Mr. Wighton speaks of the Swallow-tail Butterfly as “ rather 
rare,” and as belonging to “the class of Yellow or Sulphur 
Butterflies.” Now, though the Swallow-tail is certainly very 
local, it is not rare in localities which suit it. I once took 
upwards of 100 larvae in about two hours in a very boggy fen, 
and most of them attained the imago state. I observed little or 
no difference in colour; but many of them were finer specimens 
than I over before saw, and I believe as tine as any that were 
