396 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, March 27, 1860. 
train them in the house. We have seen Vines greatly injured by 
placing them in fresh quarters, and so carelessly, that the back of 
the leaf was exposed to the sunbeams. If that cannot be thoroughly 
avoided in the case of every leaf, syringing and a little shading 
and a moist atmosphere should be resorted to, in order that no 
check be given. The latter (a moist atmosphere) is always 
necessary for a growing plant when removed to a common house 
from a hotbed. 
If this place cannot be given, as much as possible of a similar 
treat ment should be given the plants in the greenhouse. In either 
case, if growing freely, we would keep them under glass until the 
middle or end of September. Before that we would begin to 
reduce the number of the laterals, taking off a fourth or so at a 
time, at au interval of five or six days, so as not too much to 
check growth. About the time specified, or earlier, if the canes 
or stems are strong, remove the pots to the bottom of the south 
wall, and fasten the stems to it, so as to have all the sun possible. 
A dull day should be chosen for moving, or a very slight shade 
given for a day or two, if the weather is bright. All laterals 
should, ere long, be removed, leaving nothing at each joint but 
the main large leaf. The object of this is to lessen growth, and 
hasten the thorough maturation of the buds and -wood. The 
keeping them at first was for the object of securing strength and 
vigour of stem ; but mere strength would be of no avail, so far as 
fruit was concerned, unless the wood were well ripened. We 
remove these laterals, therefore, and expose the wood and main 
leaves fully to the sun, for the very purpose of retarding growth 
and maturing that thoroughly that has been already made. 
We have avoided all complex mixtures of soils, as nothing 
suits better than good hazel loam, if top spit of a pasture, and 
sweetened for four or six months all the better, used rough, with 
a few bits of bones, and bits of charcoal, and lime rubbish, to 
keep it open. Strength can be given by weak manure waterings, 
varying the kinds of manure applied, but making sure it is weak 
rather than strong. The strength has often been referred to of 
late. From the time, however, that the pots are put against the 
wall, the plants should be prevented flagging; but not a drop 
more water than is necessary for that should be given them. 
As we may expect heavy rains in September and October, 
the pots should be covered with a slate, a tile, a board, &c., in a 
slanting position to throw the rains past the pots, instead of 
letting them fall on them. If deemed necessary, a little fresh 
surfacing may be given a week or two before taking the plants 
out. When cold nights come and leaves get withered and fall, 
the pots should be moved to the back of the wall or an open 
shed, where tho pots can be plunged in litter up to their rims, 
and the surface covered with litter to prevent any frost entering. 
The tops may also receive a little protection in severe weather. 
When it is desirable to start them into growth, pick out 
carefully a little of the surface soil, and fresh dress with rich 
compost,—such as loam and rotten dung,—to within three- 
quarters of an inch of the top. Place them in the greenhouse at 
first, and then, if anxious to forward them, take them when 
started into the place designed for the Pines. We say nothing 
of fruiting them in a hotbed, for, though that is often done, we fear 
if attempted at all early, some of the minutiae of attendance, 
especially in dull weather, would be rather troublesome. Tine- 
growing, under hotbeds, does best when the Vines are merely 
helped to come a little earlier than they would do in the open 
air. To give your Vines lull justice after all the supposed care, 
they should have such a place as you propose for Pines, and then 
you could give the roots a gentle heat by plunging the pots, and 
keep the tops by means ot air some 10° lower in temperature. 
This would make them push strong, and you might have Grapes 
pretty early. If you think such minutiae as we have referred to, 
too troublesome, though in reality there is less trouble in the 
doing than in reading or writing about them, then we would advise 
planting out Vines in a good soil, both for your greenhouse and 
Pine-house. The plants you turned out now would yield you 
some fruit the second season, and more and more afterwards. 
With the attention described, however, you may have a fair 
crop in pots in 1861, but the Vines will be of little use after¬ 
wards. Their energies will be exhausted by a good crop, and 
you will require to begin anew. If such is your object, you 
cannot put in more eyes too soon. 
2 nd. We do not think you could fruit more than from twelve 
to sixteen Pine plants of a good size in such a twelve-feet house, 
after allowing a pathway behind. We are somewhat doubtful of 
your plan answering • but we could not decide unless we knew all 
about the construction of your oven, and whether you kept your 
oven pretty constantly employed. If you had to make a fire oh 
purpose to heat the tank for the Pines, we fear that you would 
find the fuel expensive. We know of a case or two where, when 
continuous heat was wanted for a similar purpose, the idea had 
to be relinquished. We know of several cases where a good crop 
of Grapes has been obtained in houses in September, the floors of 
which were over ovens. In neither case did it strike us that the 
heat would have been sufficient to heat a tank regularly for Pines 
in winter. Of course, with a thinner roof to the oven, and 
frequent firing, there could be no difficulty in the matter; but, 
then the firing, if to be used extra, would be a rather serious 
affair. The regular heat you may be able to command must 
determine you as to whether you can manage Pines in such a 
position successfully. 
Wc so thoroughly wish you every suecess, that if we can be of 
any service, we shall be very glad to assist you.l 
GROWING THE SCARLET LOBELIA AND 
MUSK PLANT. 
Tali Lobelias do not do well in my garden, the soil is too 
dry for them. May I place the pots in water, and when should 
I put them to stand there—I mean at what stage of growth ? 
They and Mimulus, I should think, would both bear the treat¬ 
ment of Agapanthus.— Kate. 
[In olden times these scarlet Lobelias were grown extensively 
in pots. We have grown them that way for Borne years, with 
much of the treatment of Ealsams. After Midsummer, and when 
the flowers were about opening,we had the pots standing in saucers 
of water as you suggest. Mimulus the same, but the Mimulus 
is more of a spring and autumn flower, and requires no water 
under it then.] 
THE DWARF MARIGOLD AS A SUBSTITUTE 
FOR THE CALCEOLARIA. 
Having noticed several inquiries in The Cottage Gardener 
respecting a substitute for the yellow Calceolaria, I beg to say I 
have grown the dwarf Marigold with success, both as an edging 
and for ribbon-borders since it first came out, and I can with 
confidence recommend it. 
I have used it as an edging to the Ageratum with success, and 
in a ribbon-border planted thus :—For the first row, the white 
Alyssum ; then a row of Lobelia speciosa; then the dw r arf 
Marigold; next Scarlet Geranium and Ageratum. This combi¬ 
nation had a very good effect, and continued in full bloom from 
June till the frost cut the plants off. 
It is also a good point in favour of the Marigold that it will 
remove when hi full flower without flagging the least; so that 
you can keep a stock of it in the reserve garden to fill up any 
vacancies that may occur by keeping tho flowers pinched out 
to within three weeks of the time you want them to flower. 
After that time they will continue in full flower the remaining 
part of the season by keeping the dead flowers picked off. 
The way I usually adopt in raising these plants is very simple. 
I sow the seed in pans the latter end of March in gentle heat; 
prick off the seedlings in boxes as soon as large enough, and 
place them in gentle heat to establish them ; then remove them 
into a cold frame just to protect them from frost. After which 
they will require nothing more till they are wanted for planting 
out. 
The remainder to be transplanted in the reserve garden for 
succession, or to fill any beds where other plants had failed.— 
E. Welch. 
MUSHROOM CULTURE. 
Mr. Bailey’s remarks on the above are most useful to us 
amateurs, but he has omitted one or two important points. 
Will he kindly say what the dimensions of a bed will be made 
of his compost of four barrow's of droppings, and one barrow of 
loam ? How deep ought the bed to be made ? Can he re¬ 
commend any remedy for the ravages of woodlice ? A toad is 
said to be a good guard, but toads are scarce at this season. Is 
there any means of poisoning them ?—W. X. W. 
[The dimensions of a Mushroom-bed may be of any size 
which room may dictate. The beds made as I described, are 
one foot deep and five feet wide. A toad is one of the best 
