THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION.— October 7, 1850. 
4 
hftustion, through hearing heavy crops. In the latter 
case there is little tho forcing gardener can clo, unless it 
ho to get them pruned as soon as the foliage begins to fall. 
The other case, however, requires some management in 
order to coax the trees gradually into a state ot rest; and 
I may hero advert to it. There can he little douht that 
all laterals produced after a crop of Grapes has thoroughly 
ripened, and are cut, arc detrimental in a certain sense. 
They shade too much tho principal foliage, on which, 
at that precise period, much depends; and, indeed, may 
prove, to a certain degree, robbers ol the system ot the 
tree, inasmuch as they may detract more than they are 
allowed or able to repay. Only one tiling can ho urged 
with regard to their services. They may serve for 
awhile to extend the volume of the roots, or to promote 
a greater degree of activity in them. It is, however, 
very doubtful whether what they may accomplish is 
equivalent to the amount of mischief they may occasion, 
by compromising the position of tho tree with regard to 
future forcing; for the old moral maxim, “early to bed 
and early to rise,” is as much applicable to a Vine or 
Peach as to a man. I should advise, therefore, that much 
caution bo exercised as to the free permission of late 
growths, and that they by no means be allowed to 
shade the chief foliage. But there is yet another point. 
Tho latter continues comparatively green sometimes 
when, by tho course of the season, we might fairly ex¬ 
pect it to rest; and wlnit is to be done? arises in many 
a mind. Hero we may fairly fall back on what is called 
“the ripening of the wood.” “ Heat, heat, heat! ” the \ ines 
would say, were they gifted, like Rousseau’s animals, with 
the power of speaking; “ heat us, but do not burn us ! ” 
This is the language I must beg to put in their vegetable 
mouths. Heat, then, must ripen tho wood of Vines; 
heat mus', assist them in casting their foliage in a irec 
way. 
Peaches, too, produce, more or less, late or after¬ 
growth, according to their strength and the circum¬ 
stances of their iooi, action; in other words, in pro¬ 
portion to their unexhausted vigour and the power 
of the soil in which they grow. Peaches should by 
no means bo allowed to possess breast-wood projecting 
beyond the surface of the tree long after the fruit is 
gathered. Such is very prejudicial to that thorough ripon- 
ing of the wood and plumpness of the blossom-buds so 
essential to the next year’s crop. 1 would also suggest 
that every terminal shoot bo pinched on Peaches still 
continuing to extend; of course, not many are in that 
condition. Young trees, however, in a generous soil, 
scarcely know when to stop, especially if they have been 
liberally watered at the root; and, with regard to water¬ 
ing, there can be no question that the soil of Peaches 
and Vines for early forcing should be kept as dry as 
possible, short of being completely dusty, from Sep¬ 
tember to about a fortnight or so before closing the 
houses for forcing. This, as much as a decline of tem¬ 
perature, has a tendency to induce a stato of rest; and 
the latter should continue two months of a decided 
character; but I think we may fairly date the com¬ 
mencement of the real rest period from the moment the 
foliage turns yellow and the leaves commenco falling; 
and this, as to Peaches for very early forcing, should, if 
possible, bo brought to take place about the middle of 
September at latest. 
Here let me point to that foarful pest of both plant 
and fruit-house, the red spider. No tree is more liable 
to injury from this source than tho Poach or Nectarine. 
Their first approaches, too, are of so insidious a character 
that, with amateurs or young beginners, the trees may 
be most seriously injured before they are aware of the 
character of their visitors. They must be sought for on 
the back of tho leaves, where, probably, the richest 
secretions aro to be found; and, at presont, there is no 
remedy equal to sulphur dusted finely but liberally on 
the back of the foliage with a powder-puff or other 
means. Sulphur acts as a preventive, too; and syring¬ 
ing heavily morning and night in a battering kind of 
way is another preventive; but these, however, are 
matters pertaining more to spring and summer culture. 
1 am now speaking of sulphur more as a remedy at 
the resting time. 
However trees may be attacked by the red spider in 
early summer it is certain that its most severe visitation 
may be expected soon after the stoning period is com¬ 
plete. This, with outdoor Peaches, is about the end of j 
July. Indeed, we not unfrequently find trees in Peach- ! 
houses suddenly attacked just before tho leaves begin 
to lose their summer’s verdure. 1 have known a tree 
thoroughly invested at such a period within one 
fortnight. 
1 may hero just advert to fruit-trees in tubs or pots, 
and intended for forcing. Now that orchard-houses arc 
so rapidly on tho increase, there must be many thou¬ 
sands of pot fruit-trees in the kingdom, and no small 
number in the hands of amateurs, who can scarcely bo 
called first-rate gardeners. Many of these trees have, 
doubtless, been plunged during the summer—all ought 
to have beon; and plunged trees will root through the 
bottom or sides of the pots. Now, such for early forcing 
should have hcen disturbed, in order to break away their 
outside roots, about tho first week in September ; and 
where such has not been the case, I advise that it be > 
done immediately. This will give them a slight check 
of much service as to future operations; it will force 
forward the rest period, which will give tho trees a longer 
nap. Such pots will, of course, have been placed in a 
very light situation through the summer; and if their 
foliage has fairly turned yellow, they would be benefited 
by being plunged on the north side of a wall or other 
cool place. This will be an additional incitement to rest, 
and will render them very susceptible when introduced 
to warmth ; but, above all things, let me advise that the 
pots or tubs be plunged. For this purpose a high and 
dry plot of ground should be selected ; stagnation be¬ 
neath must he studiously avoided. I would drain as 
carefully for this purpose as for a Vine border. I would 
advise that this border surface or bed be uine inches 
above the ground level, and that the pots or tubs be 
plunged overhead or otherwise covered. The preserva¬ 
tion of the surface roots is of as much importance in 
this case as in that of border trees, and even more so ; 
and these are sure to receive more or less damage, if 
close to the surface, as they ought to be, from the frost. 
I may advert to Strawberries for forcing. These by 
the end of September should have firm and plump 
crowns, feeling as large as a big nut. Many persons 
leave Strawberry pots on the surfaco of the ground all 
the summer, but this is by no means advisable. There 
can be no doubt that the roots on the sunny side of 
the pot suffer much. But here 1 advise all who have 
Strawberries in pots to plunge them immediately, if not 
done, on elevated ash-beds, as in the case of the fruit- j 
trees in pots, with this exception—that the Strawberries 1 
have a warm, sunny situation, for they will, by the ; 
natural docline of the season, be subject to a sufficiently 
low temperature. There can be little doubt that Straw¬ 
berry leaves—those of earlier formation—carry on their 
elaborations for the benefit of both crown and root up 
to tho very edge of winter. It. FjRrington. 
CLAPTON NURSERY. 
I have seen so many things during this vacation, that 
I am forced to mix them without finishing any one out 
of hand. Tho conservatory and the modes of culture : 
at Shrublaud Park, with the fruit and forcing depart- [ 
ments under a new dynasty, are too good to be given as ! 
