THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY 
of Punch, and the colour of Shrubland Scarlet is scarlet, of 
course. The habit of it is such, that as a pillar plant, out 
on the lawn, it has reached the extraordinary height of 
eighteen clear feet from the grass in the garden of tiie 
Bishop of London at Fulham Palace; therefore, if you put 
it in a bed with any other sort, or with many sorts, it must 
occupy the middle of the bed. The habit of Compaction 
commands the same respect. Plant it with ever so many 
kinds it must have the middle, and is easier to manage 
there than Shrubland Scarlet. All this is in your favour. 
Cerise Unique means Cherry-cheek, and that colour will 
never do with scarlets, unless you are shading; therefore 
you must drop Cerise Unique in the match beds, which 
makes the thing more easy still. Now, let us see how we 
stand. We have Compacturn for Shrubland Scarlet, Com¬ 
mander in-Chief for Punch, Tom is Tom everywhere, and 
Bisliopstow Scarlet is the heir-at-law of Baron Hu gel, unless 
it was from a twin birth with the Tidworth Seedling, or Reidii, 
or Dazzle, or Orion, or twelve or fifteen other good and 
lawful children of the said Baron, every one of whom will 
support the family-title, and their own title to be in the first 
rank. The rest you know. You have described Hydrangea 
flora to the very letter. It is, however, a good pot-plant for 
decoration in the spring and autumn, like Boule de Neigc, 
Triotnphe de Mont Rouge, Ac.] 
STOYE FOR A PLANT ROOM.—ROSE CUTTINGS. 
“ Will you kindly inform me whether a stove with a flue 
or without is best adapted for a room devoted to plants ? 
Also, how slips of Roses ought to be cut, and if there is any 
chance of the old gellow Cabbage Rose growing from slips 
at this time of the year, and if bottom-lieat would be ad¬ 
visable ?—A One Yeah Subscriber.” 
[The stove with a flue to it will be the best. The best 
cuttings now of Roses are made of short, stubby side-shoot3, 
three or four inches in length, slipped off close to the older 
stem or shoot. At the point of junction there are many 
small and inconspicuous buds, and the vital forces are more 
accumulated there. Make the cut part smooth with a sharp 
knife, remove the lower leaves, and shorten the upper ones, 
which will reduce the evaporating surface of the cuttings, 
and its powers will thus be directed to support itself, and 
make efforts for extension by putting out roots. Place them 
in sandy soil beneath a hand-light. Do not give any bottom- 
lieat. You may try such cuttings of the old yellow' Rose; but 
we can hold out no great hopes of success. The best sorts 
to try now are Pcrpetuals and Chinas.] 
FUCHSIA TREATMENT IN AUTUMN. 
“ I have some Fuchsias that have done blooming and are 
becoming naked: please give me the treatment of them to 
insure a good bloom next year. Will they want repotting, 
and at what time must it be done? I am about adding a 
few Gloxinias to my stock of plants: which is the best time 
to do it? Can you recommend to my notice a good work on 
the management of Vines ? and oblige—A Constant Reader.” 
[Tlace your Fuchsias where they will be safe from frost, 
cutting oft' part of the weaker points of shoots, and keeping 
the roots dryish. About March or the end of February 
prune back the shoots to short or long spurs, according as 
you want your plants to grow upright in the bush or wide at 
bottom in the pyramidal form. If naked at bottom, unless 
you wish to make standards, you had better cut down 
altogether, and get a fresh, strong shoot to start afresh with. 
Water a few days after pruning. "When the young shoots 
are coming away freely, and from one to several inches in 
length, repot, by getting rid of a good deal of the old soil, 
and replace in clean similar-sized pots. If the plants are 
young they will want larger pots in about six weeks. Rich 
soil and manure-waterings at times will then give you 
abundance of fine flowers. 
It will suit dealers and you, too, to get the Gloxinias now, 
as well as at any other time, for they are not likely to be 
injured by carriage, and, if struck early, will soon be going \ 
to rest, when they must be allowed to become dryish—not ! 
dust dry—in the pots, and kept in an average temperature | 
of from 45° to 55°. 
GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION.— October 14,1856. 31 
Hoare on the Vine is good, especially for out-door 
culture. Roberts on the Vine is also very good, leaving 
out filling the borders with horse-flesh and other garbage. 
Sanders on the Vine is also good, and you will find some 
good articles in the last and previous volumes of The 
Cottage Gardener.] 
FORCING IN A NEW HOUSE.—SANVITALIA 
PROCUMBENS. 
“ W. C., Brighton, has lately constructed a forcing-house 
with two beds, which have both upper and under heat by 
means of hot-water pipes. His gardener tells him it is too 
late to plant this year, and that he must wait for his crops 
till early spring. Would the Editor kindly inform him if this is 
the case; or if not, what will be the best for forcing through 
the winter? Could Peas be forced through the winter ? 
“In No. 403, June 17th, 1856, there is an account of a 
new' bedding-plant, the Sanvitalia. procumbens. Can I obtain 
some plants of it, and w'here ? We suffer a good deal from 
wind, and an early, hardy, free-flowering plant would be a 
great treasure.” 
[We should have liked to know how your beds are placed 
in the house. So far as economy is concerned very likely 
the gardener is quite right. All forcing is up-hill work 
before the days begin to lengthen; but, if expense be no 
object, you could grow Cucumbers and Dwarf Kidney Beans, 
planting them now. Strawberries might also be introduced 
by the end of the month, and if the roots have quite filled 
small pots, 48’s, and the buds were well matured, you might 
expect fruit by the new year. Peas may also be grown, but 
they must not be over-heated. If you have two tempera¬ 
tures in your beds then in the cooler part you could force 
Asparagus, Potatoes, Radishes, Mushrooms, Rhubarb, and Sea- 
kale, by covering the latter. 
The Sanvitalia is not new; we have pretty beds of it just 
now, a complete carpet of black and orange. Any nursery¬ 
man will supply you with seeds, and you may sow in the 
open ground in April, or in a slight hotbed, and plant out. 
We sowed in a little heat in April, and planted out at the 
end of May, and nothing could well have done better. The 
planting secures regularity in the bed.] 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
Petunia (C. C. C.). —The flowers were spoiled. It is too late now to 
judge of the merits of out-of-door flowers. 
Greenhouse (Simplex). —In your case the N. and E. sides may be 
boarded. Have plenty of doors for ventilation. It will be like a furnace 
in summer. 
Direction (F. H.). —Mr. J. Waterer, American Nursery, Bagshot. 
Poison (A. B.). —A druggist may sell poisons without inquiring the 
purchaser’s name. What safety would be gained by the inquiry? Any 
one intending to commit murder would not hesitate to tell a falsehood. 
We do not know the paste you mention. 
Bees (A Constant Header, Herts).— In uniting Bees you need not 
destroy one of the Queens. The Bees do not scruple about being 
regicides when there is need. 
Quercus (Conifer). — Michauxii is a synonyme of Q. prinns tomentosa, 
and Q. Slcinneri is a species. We do not know the others. We know of 
none of the Junipers except Struthiacea; nor do we know why you 
should write one day under the num de plume of “ Conifer ” and the 
next as “ Genifevre.” 
Gas Heating (B. B.).—' The gas might be inclosed in a glass lamp, 
with a tube from its top to carry off the noxious products, and thus serve 
both to warm and illuminate your greenhouse. 
Bees (Idem). —Bees will work in a box-hive, the bars of which are at 
right angles across the entrance. It is very easy to try an experiment 
on stupefying Bees with chloroform. If a dessert-spoonful on a warmed 
sponge is not enough try a table-spoonful. Our correspondent says 
that our recipe for Barley-sugar “answers admirably, that is, boiling 
for thirty minutes, instead of three minutes, as some recipes direct.” 
Fig-tree Layer. — Snake Cucumber (IF. IK.).— Separate the lay¬ 
ered plant next month, if it is rooted, after the leaves have fallen, and 
plant it where you desire. The Snake Cucumber is too small in diameter 
in proportion to its length to be handsome enough for exhibition. Its 
great length renders it objectionable for that purpose, as well as for table 
use. 
Aguarium. — “ Italicus ” may have a good aquarium with the bottom 
of wood instead of slate. We have one that has stood both heat and 
cold well, the bottom of which is made of red deal, two feet and a half 
long, and about one inch and a quarter thick, well painted of a marine J 
colour, and varnished. Perhaps wood suits better than either stone or I 
