THE COTTAGE GABDENEE AND COUNTBY GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION, January 20, 1857. 271 
been able to manage so many things in his little house, 
because confident that before long he will be able to 
give a lesson to us and to others, whilst, in the mean¬ 
time, the internal arrangement of his house, and the 
mode and expense of heating by a gas stove, would be 
interesting to many; and regret, because we fear that, 
instead of greatly increasing his collection, true policy 
would require that it should rather be diminished, or, 
at any rate, that the plants should consist more of those 
requiring similar treatment. 
In such a small house some amateurs would prefer 
a few middle-sized plants; but I must own I should 
have a strong sympathy with “E. C.” in endeavouring 
to have as much variety as possible, and, consequently, 
keeping the plants young and in small pots; and though 
by this means the labour and niceties of watering are 
considerably increased, yet, on the other hand, there is 
less danger of the plants getting into a sodden state 
from over watering. 
The list of “E. C.’s” plants is so similar to that of 
| others requiring similar information that I subjoin it, 
i that the relevancy of the previous and following remarks 
i may be more perceptible:—Camellias, Azaleas, Kalmia 
latifolia, Chorozema Lawrenciana and ilicifolia, Timelea 
j decussata, Mahernia vesta, Torenia Asiatica, Erio- 
stemon intermedium, Begonia parviflora, Gloxinias, Vero¬ 
nica Hendersonii, Deutzia gracilis, Maurandyas, Maho- 
nia, Cyclamen, Oleander, Cytisus, Myrtles, Arum, 
Tropseolum tricolorum, Dielytra spectabilis, Daphne, 
Ceanothus, Heliotropium, Geraniums, Fuchsias, Lilium 
of sorts, Antirrhinum Hendersonii, Pentstemon crispum 
(do not know it). Some of these are small plants in pots 
from cuttings of the previous summer, as Mahernia, 
Chorozema, Geraniums, Fuchsias, Heliotropes, and An¬ 
tirrhinum, the parent plants also being in the house. 
The cuttings of Mrs. Story Fuchsia in cutting pots had 
better remain in them until March. 
With such an aspect, and an average of 42° of tem¬ 
perature, few things will be in bloom in winter. The 
Cytisus Attleana will furnish a yellow. Heliotropes at 
the warmest end will furnish a sprig of lilac. The 
Jasminum nudiflorum will yield a profusion of yellow 
flowers; and the single Wallflowers, from a sowing in 
March and April, will also bloom pretty freely, and so 
would Tree Carnations that were strong plants early in 
' autumn. The bulbs, such as Van Thol and Rex 
Rubrorum Tulips and Hyacinths, would only bloom in 
winter by being potted early, kept in a dark place until 
the pots were full of roots, and then placed near the 
kitchen fireplace at night, and in the window during 
the day, until the flowers began to open. . Such plants 
as the Jasmine, Carnations, &c., should be set out of 
doors when done blooming. 
The Kalmia, the Mahernia, and the Ceanothus do not 
require- any protection in winter, except the roots to be 
kept from hard frost, and a branch or a bit of mat may 
also go against the branches of the latter. I have seen 
such plants, and also the Laurestinus, constituting 
ornaments to little greenhouses in winter and spring; 
but to keep them for such purposes the pots should be 
plunged out of doors in the spring, and be fairly 
supplied with water in summer. When in the house 
in winter in such circumstances, not being forced, they 
will require the coolest and airiest position. In such a 
house as that of “E. C.” I should hardly deem them 
worthy of a place, unless merely for filling up and 
looking green at first. 
The Pimelea, Deutzia, Oleander, Myrtle, Antirrhinum, 
Pentstemon, and Fuchsia are the next hardiest; in fact, 
the second is quite hardy in the climate of London, but 
in such a house will bloom early if kept in-doors after 
October. Old plants of Fuchsias will stand very well 
beneath the stage, or in any place free from frost, care 
being just taken that the soil is not wet, nor yet quite 
dry; but all young potted-ofF plants from cuttings 
struck in summer and autumn must have more 
attention, and as much exposure to the light as the 
position can command, and fresh air on all favourable 
opportunities. 
The Camellias, Azaleas, and Daphnes are the next 
hardiest; but in such a temperature and aspect, and 
with no other place to shift them to, they will not j 
bloom until spring. The best treatment has recently 
been given. 
The Torenia, Begonia, and Gloxinia are too tender 
for such a house, and the keeping of them will be ! 
injurious to the other plants by giving them too much 
heat, or preventing them having enough of fresh air. 
This is especially the case with these three kinds of ' 
plants when young and growing freely; when older 
they will stand rougher treatment in winter. For 
instance, I have wintered the beautiful Torenia in an 
average temperature of 45° when the plants were nearly 
a twelvemonth old, and had been put gradually into a 
resting state by just keeping them green, but with 
plenty of air, and no more water than was sufficient t& 
prevent them flagging. The Begonia I have kept in , 
a temperature a few degrees lower by stripping away 
all the flowers and all the leaves, with the exception 
of a few very small ones near the base, and keeping the 
base of the fleshy stems and roots dry. When they had 
more heat and moisture in spring they broke freely. I 
have also kept old roots of Gloxinia, and, indeed, young j 
ones when the leaves died down, and consequently in 
a torpid state, and the soil quite dry about them, in a i 
temperature ranging from 40° to 45°; but in such a 
house it would be of no use starting these roots into [ 
growth until May or Juue, and then they would - 
require a close, warm corner. To keep young plants of 
either of these growing over the winter, our corre¬ 
spondent would require a small glass case, handligbt, 1 
Wardian case, or something of that kind to inclose 
some little space near the gas stove, so as there to 
command from 5° to 10° more temperature than the ! 
general temperature of the house. Without that means 
it would be sound policy to discard these altogether, at 
least if old plants could not be obtained. Even then it 
is doubtful if great things could be done with the ! 
Gloxinia without the assistance of a hotbed or frame, ! 
as an atmosphere saturated with moisture, and ranging j 
from 60° to 85° in temperature, are the conditions of t 
growth in which they delight. 
With these three genera excepted the Heliotrope is 
the most tender of those mentioned, and should be kept 
at the end of the house next the stove. The younger j 
the plants the more tender they are. Old plants with j 
woody stems and smallish leaves will stand more air and 
coolness, provided frost is not admitted. 
The Tropceolum, Dielytra, and Lilium may stand ■ 
anywhere out of sight, and be kept dryish rather than 
damp until growth begins to appear. When done 
flowering and withered the Tropseolum tuber may as well 
be taken out of the pot, and placed among some sand in 
a pot or saucer. If allowed to remain in the pot it is as 
well to remove the earth from the sides of the tuber, so 
that it may be more easily seen and examined, and better 
dried. See, also, that there are no small tubers left in 
the soil. As this is one of the most beautiful things for I 
giving employment to an amateur I will give the follow- \ 
ing outline of culture. As soon as you perceive an inch j 
or two of the small thread-like shoot coming from the 
upper end of the tuber it ought to be potted. If the | 
tuber is sound, and as largo as your middle finger, a 
twelve-inch pot will be requisite; if half that size an 
eight-inch pot will be large enough. Some prefer i 
placing them in small pots first, ancl then shifting. I 
like placing them in the flowering pots at once, though | 
a little more care in watering afterwards is necessary, i 
