275 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY 
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I would remark that the Pentas is very impatient of the 
moisture or steam arising from dung or tan-beds, or even an 
excess of that thrown off by the pantiles, or radiating troughs 
of hot water or steam-pipes. The steam condenses on the 
leaves and stems, and forms a sort of liquid belt round the 
margin of the leaves and certain parts of the stern, which 
destroys the delicate membranes. This so causes decay 
that in some cases the amputation of the branches is ren¬ 
dered necessary. 
After the plant has given indication of re-growth, shorten 
the branches to within two inches of the main stem, and 
when the roots have rambled to the sides of the pot, which 
is the safest guide to the knowledge of the change of pot 
being necessary, again shift into a pot three sizes larger, 
and proceed as already stated, using the same kind of com- 
[ post as before, with the addition of a half part of thoroughly 
decomposed stable-dung. Thus continue to shift and stop 
when necessary until the first week in July, when, if no 
accident has taken place, the plant will occupy a fifteen-inch 
pot, with as many branches as is convenient pegged down at 
regular distances close to the soil, the ends reaching towards 
or over the edge of the pot, which must be shortened along 
with those that are not pegged down, taking care to leave 
those in the centre the longest. 
Having prepared a quantity of neat slender rods and bast 
or small string, as the branches advance in growth stake 
and tie them at equal distances, allowing the tops of the 
rods to incline outwards as much as possible, gradually 
becoming more perpendicular and higher until they reach 
the centre, so that, when all are trained, the plant will pre¬ 
sent the appearance of a half globe or circle. 
After the second shift give as much light as possible, and 
keep the foliage of other plants from overshadowing the 
Penlas. Give water freely when required, taking care not to 
apply it at a temperature less than 70°. This tepid water, 
I would observe, might be had always at command if, in 
building hothouses, &c., a tank was constructed sufficiently 
large, and either sunk below or raised above the ground- 
level of the house, and placed in the stock-hole, and as close 
to the furnace as practicable. Into this tank the water from 
the roofs of the buildings should be conducted by means of 
fall-pipes. 
Every tim'd watering, instead of plain water, give liquid 
manure that has been prepared from half-decomposed cow 
or sheep-dung and a small portion of soot. Before applying 
it, take care to dilute it with hot water, in order to raise it to 
the desired temperature. 
When the weather is hot and dry, early in the morning 
syringe with tepid water, and if the green fiy or the thrips j 
should appear, use a liquid (the recipe of which, if I mistake i 
not, I obtained from The Cottage Gardener) prepared in ! 
the following way, viz., to eighteen gallons of rain water add 
one peck of soot; after eight days add one peck of lime 
and one peck of pounded charcoal; stir occasionally for I 
eight days more; strain through a coarse cloth, and it is 
ready for use. This, if applied in the evening of four suc¬ 
cessive nights, will totally destroy the thrips; but it will be 
found more effectual, especially in the destruction of the 
green fly, if four ounces of soda ashes be dissolved in two 
quarts of hot water, and added to the whole mass before 
straining off for use. 
If it should be thought proper to keep the Penlas through 
the winter for the following season’s cultivation, to prevent 
damping, to which it is particularly subject when the com¬ 
mon course of cultivation is adopted, facilitate, as much as 
possible, the solidifying of the branches by exposure to the 
sun during the latter part of summer and through the 
autumn. From the beginning of November to the middle 
of February give a temperature of 48° to 55°, which mil 
bear it through the rest period without any danger of suffer¬ 
ing, and always permit the leaves to handle rather soft than 
full of sap before applying water ; then give water freely. 
The last week in February, or the first week in March, 
remove the branches close to the pot top, increase the 
temperature a few degrees, serve with water, and when the 
buds have well broken, turn the plant out of the pot; reduce 
the ball to a convenient size, and insert in as small a pot as 
possible, and afterwards give it the same kind of treatment 
as that already directed for younger plants.— B. B., near 
Halifax. 
GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION, January 20, 1857. 
PEARS GRAFTED ON MOUNTAIN ASH. 
In looking over a lato number of The Cottage Gardener 
I find, among many other valuable things, some very useful 
directions for the management of Pear-trees, and I am 
glad to see you have taken up the subject; for Pears of all 
kinds, but particularly the finer sorts, have for a number of 
years back been a very precarious crop in this part of the 
country (Langholm, Dumfries-shire). 
I am inclined to think that the real reason of this pre¬ 
cariousness is simply because they come into flower about a 
fortnight or three weeks too early, the seasons being so 
much altered, and, consequently, the blossoms are either 
nipped by late frosts or blighted by east winds, which are 
very common with us during the spring months. 
To obviate this I work Pears upon stocks of Mountain 
Ash, and not upon Quince, as formerly, and I have found it 
answer well. They are not only very fruitful upon these 
stocks, but the flow of sap being a little later, causes the 
blossom to escape the late frosts, rendering the crop more 
sure.— Walter Ballantyne, Gardener, Eskdale House. 
STENOCARPUS CUNNINGHAMI. 
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In Vol. XIY. of “Paxton’s Magazine of Botany" is a 
beautiful figure of this plant, to which I beg to refer 
you. You will there see it stated that it has been flowered 
at Chatsworth, as well as at King’s Road, and for a more 
detailed account page 21 of the same volume may be 
consulted. After those statements it would appear super¬ 
fluous for me to say anything further; but if the following 
from my humble pen is of any service, it is with much 
pleasure I accede to your request in stating how I managed 
this plant, whose singular and beautiful flowers only require 
to be seen to command for it a place in every collection. 
Another great recommendation is that it will bear almost any 
amount of rough usage. 
The plant which flowered here last summer is five feet 
high, growing in a mixture of loam and peat in an eleven-inch 
pot, which would appear small for the size of the plant, not 
having been shifted for two years. Last spring it was placed 
in a warm Vinery, and syringed well every day, with plenty 
of water at the root during the growing season. Afterwards 
it was subjected to all the heat and light at command to 
thoroughly ripen the wood. In the month of August I had 
the pleasure of seeing blossoms making then- appearance, 
from different parts of the plant, on both old and young 
wood, since which time it has expanded a great many of its 
beautiful flowers, and I hope, if the above treatment is 
carried out, others will be gratified, and amply rewarded for 
all the care which this plant richly deserves.— Thomas 
Anness, Gardener to J. W. Gurney, Esq., M.P., Old Cation, 
Norwich. 
ROYAL GARDENS AT MEUDON. 
By Mr. Robert Thompson, Superintendent of the Horti¬ 
cultural Society’s Orchard and Kitchen Garden. 
We proceeded, March 9th, to Meudon, chiefly for the 
purpose of seeing the Pine Apple culture, in which M. 
Gabriel Pelvilain surpasses all competitors of the present 
day; and, judging from the vigorous and healthy appear¬ 
ance of the plants, they certainly bid fair to maintain the 
celebrity which he has already acquired. We saw at various 
establishments very healthy plants; but none equalled in 
luxuriance those at Meudon. We obtained the following 
details respecting the mode of culture :— 
The suckers are potted in four-inch pots in August or 
September, the earliest period after the fruit is cut being 
preferred, and in these four-inch pots they remain till 
spring. 
In March or April following a bed is prepared, half dung 
and half leaves, and covered with ten inches of peat soil, 
and into this the rooted suckers, turned out of the four-inch 
pots, are all planted for the summer. 
In October the plants are carefully taken up with a little 
soil at their roots, which are not at all cut, and potted into 
seven-inch pots, in which they remain during the winter. 
