58 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, October 26, 1858. 
oiently cool one for tlie same thing ? All our cutting-pots then 
stood half plunged in cold cinder ashes, and every cutting took, 
and whenever the roots showed out through the bottom of a pot 
that pot was turned right out in the open air, but away from the 
sun; and there hundreds of such pots got a good pincher on the 
yth of October, when the frost came. The leaves of some 
Heliotropes were blackened; but that was the best night of the 
season for us, it stopped a hardy and very sure young growth 
just in time to make our young stock the best we remember to 
have had for years. One of your Yerbena-pots will want more 
looking after than two pots of our nipped Heliotropes. What 
would the boys and girls be fit for, if you had brought them up 
so tender as you did these bedders ? But, with fair attention, you 
will get them very comfortably over the winter. You will have to be 
over them on many days. Ours are so hardy, that they will stand 
anything short of frost. The least puff of cold wind will hurt 
yours till after Christmas. But your greatest enemy will be damp. 
Some contrivance to put hot ashes, or cinders, or hot water in, to 
dispel the damp at times, is an excellent remedy.] 
LEUCOPOGONS—SHOWY BED— BOUVARDIA 
LONGIFLORA VERA. 
“ There is a plant I should be much obliged to you if you 
could give me some information about,—viz., Leucopogon angtisti- 
Julius, or Ounninghamii. It is a great pity it is not more gene¬ 
rally known, ns it is coming into flower now; and its white, 
scented flowers are very desirable late in the year. Can you tell 
me whether it requires any particular treatment, except keeping 
up good drainage ? 
“Also, allow me to recommend to your notice a bed, for 
brightness of colour, I should think, almost unequalled,—viz., 
the double Marigold and Commander-in- Chief Geranium. You 
may object to the Marigold as common, but you cannot get the 
gold, or orange colour, if you like to call it so, anywhere else. 
Properly arranged the colour is unequalled. 
“ Also, please to tell me, whether the seeds of Bouvardia longi- 
fora vera produce plants with flowers white, and true to the 
parent ? ”—L. S. D. 
[Theso Leucopogons arc touchy plants, and many fail to do 
much good with them. The new white seedling Epncrises take 
the place of the white bearders. The same soil and treatment as 
for Epacrises will do for them ; but they are much more difficult 
to manage. 
The deep scarlet Commander-in-Chief and the bright yellow 
must look well on a green ground. 
The white BouvarAia is sure to come all white from seeds. 
What a fine tiling it is!] 
PEACHES UNDER VINES—VENTILATING WHERE I 
SASHES ARE FIXED—PRUNING OLD PORTUGAL j 
LAURELS. 
“ I will thank you to advise me in the following matter :—I i 
have a south wall, covered with Peaches and Nectarines, ten feet ! 
high below the coping. I want to grow a few Grapes, and to ■ 
put up a house against the above wall, to grow them in. I want I 
to do it in the cheapest manner I can, to be useful; and I waul j 
the whole of the glass fixed, if it can be done. Hartley’s rough | 
patent for (lie top, and sashes of 16 ozs. for the fronts, fixed, j 
The garden is surrounded with high trees, so that in hot weather, j 
for a few hours in the day, it is very hot. against the wall; there¬ 
fore, it is the ventilation that I feel a difficulty about. I should ; 
like it ventilated properly for the health of the trees, yet as j 
economically as possible. As I shall not want to force, I propose ’ 
heating it with a flue, and admitting air just above the flue, j 
merely to keep out frost. But how can I manage the top ? Will 
sash-bars two inches by three inches do for one-eighth thick and 
fifteen inches apart ? Will the Peach be likely to suffer by growing 
Grapes up each rafter fifteen inches distance. 
“My chief inquiry is, what space for ventilation at the top will 
auswer my object ? How must I do it ? and will it be as well to 
have lights to slide up and down ? 
“ I have a Portugal Laurel hedge that has grown out of bounds. 
I w T ant to reduce it very much. Will it bear having all the foliage 
nearly cut away ? I can leave one till another year, if that will 
be any advantage. And when is the best time to do it ?”—J. B 
[You will thoroughly ruin your Peach trees by training 
Vines up the glass fifteen inches apart,—that is to say, if you 
mean your Vines to be any height in the house. If you think of 
giving the Vines nearly the length of your glass, you should 
plant your Vines from four to six feet apart: then there may 
be a chance for your Peach trees. Y'ou say nothing whatever of 
the intended width of your house, though upon that much of the 
sizes of the sash-bars must depend, to carry lG-oz. sheet glass. 
If you were content with a narrow house—say, seven feet wide— 
you might bring studs every three feet from the wall, leaving 
just a little to the fruit; each stud being fifteen inches beyond the 
wall, and joined there to a ridge board, to receive one end of yonr 
sash-bars, whilst the other end would rest on a stout wall-plate rail 
in front eighteen inches from the ground, supported by a wall, or 
so many posts of wood, to support the rail. 
A moveable board at top, all the way, moved with lever or 
pulley, would give you air all the way, and give you more room 
than if your glass went right up to the wall; and then in front, 
if the wall plate was supported on posts, a board conld go all the 
way, moveable in the same manner; and if brick or stone was 
used, ventilators could be left in the wall. If you proposed a 
width of twelve or fourteen feet, then you might have a hipped 
roof of glass at top, of two or three feet in width, and part made 
to open ; or a slanting roof, like the last, but eighteen inches or 
two feet in width to the ridge board, and that width made of 
glass shutters, half of which—better if all— should open when 
wanted. Your front wall plate might be two feet in height, or a 
foot more if you choosed, and ventilated below; and thus you 
would escape all necessity for front sashes. If yon should decido 
upon a common lean-to, and yet have the roof fixed as a whole, 
you must have a swinging ventilator for every six feet in length. 
For a width of fourteen feet, with rafter sash-bars two by three 
inches, you would require an iron rod longitudinally along the 
middle, and an upright support every ten feet. 
Cut your hedge as far back ns you please, just as growth is 
showing signs of moving in the spring.] 
SIZE OF BED FOR A PILLAR ROSE. 
“ What ought to bo the diameter of a circle for growing Pillar 
Roses,—one plant to bo in each circle ? Will the following 
Roses make as good pillars on their own roots as budded ones :— 
Brennns, n. W.; Paul Bicant, H. B. ; Coup A’JIcbe; Charles 
Duval; Madame Plantier, it. W. ; Blairii No. 2 ? What depth 
of soil will they requiro P Will two feet be sufficient P The 
subsoil is retentive clay.”— Paul Ricattt. 
[It is quite time enough to talk about the diameters when the 
Pillar Roses arc four years planted. No good gardener, now-a-days, 
makes the holes, or borders, for his choice things wide enough at 
first, so that the roots may have it fresh and fresh, like the old 
woman’s pennyworths of salts. Two feet wide is quite largo 
enough to begin the strongest Rose ; then, four feet the second 
or third year; and the seventh year the circle ought to be six feet 
across ; but, after filling it with nil good things, it may be again 
reduced on the top by turf, to two feet or three iuchcs. All the 
Roses you name, and most other Roses, which arc strong enough 
for pillars, do far better, and last much longer on their own roots. 
The depth on your clay bottom should not exceed eighteen 
inches.] 
HEATING A PROPAGATING BOX-FORCING 
STRAWBERRIES. 
“ I have lately had a greenhouse erected, and fitted with hot 
water ; and, having no convenience for a hotbed, have adopted the 
following plan :—1 have had a box made twelve inches wide, and 
twelve feet long, and the return-pipe to the boiler laid at the 
bottom of the box. I propose to fill the box with sawdust or 
earth, and sink the pots or pans in it. Do you think it will 
answer, to raise seeds and cuttings ? 
“ I want to have a few early Strawberries. I have planted 
some good, strong runners in pots (24’s) about three weeks ago,— 
Black Prince and British Queen. What is the best mode of 
treating them, and when ought they to be placed in the house?” 
—A Subscriber. 
[There is no doubt that your proposed box will answer well, if 
you do not attempt to grow or raise in it things requiring much 
heat. Of course, you are aware that it will not retain heat long 
after the water gets cool; but wood and sawdust will do it longer 
