350 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, January 18, 1859. 
to two inches long. Flesh dark red, tender, and juicy, 
with a brisk acid flavour, which becomes subdued the 
longer it hangs on the tree. August. 
Fed Heart. See Gascoigne s Heart. 
Heine Hobtense ( B’Aremberg; Belle Audigcoise; 
Belle de Bavay; Belle de Laekcn; Belle de Prapeau; 
Belle de Petit Brie ; Belle Supreme; Ch'osse de Wagnelee; 
Hybrid de Laeken ; Louis XVIII. ; Lemercier; Be 
Meruer; Merveille de Hollands: Monstrueuse de Bavay; 
Monstrueuse de Jodoigne; Morestein; Bouvroy; Seize a 
la Livre). —Very large, one inch and one-twelfth long 
and an inch wide, oblong, and compressed on the sides. 
Skin very thin and translucent, at first pale red, but 
assuming a bright cornelian red, and changing to dark 
brilliant red the longer it hangs. Stalk very slender, 
about two inches long. Flesh yellow, netted, very tender, 
and very juicy, with a sweet and agreeably acidulous 
juice. Middle of July. 
Fed Jacket. — Large, heart-shaped. Skin amber, 
covered with pale red, but when fully exposed entirely 
covered with bright red. Stalk two inches long, slender. 
Flesh half-tender, juicy, and of good, but not high, flavour. 
Beginning and middle of August. Valuable for its lateness. 
Fivers’ Early Amber Heart. See Parly Amber. 
Hockpoet Bigaekeau. —Large, obtuse heart-shaped, 
uneven in its outline, and with a swelling on one side. 
Skin pale amber, covered with brilliant deep red, mottled 
and dotted with carmine. Stalk an inch to an inch and 
a half long. Flesh yellowish white, firm, juicy, sweet, 
and richly flavoured. Beginning and middle of July. 
Fonalds’ Black. See Black Tartarian. 
Fonalds’ Large Morello. See Morcllo. 
Fouge Pale. See Carnation. 
Fouvroy. See Heine Ilortense. 
ITo be continued.) 
QTJEFIES AND ANSWEES. 
GREENHOUSE SHADED AND FACING THE WEST. 
“ I wish to erect a small greenhouse for Fuchsias, Pelargo¬ 
niums, Tea Roses in pots, and to protect a little bedding stuff. I 
have a wall fucing tin west, but a building on the south takes 
away all sunshine from the beginning of November to the end of 
February. If I erect the house to the west wall, could I grow 
the plants successfully ?”— Gbeenhouse. 
[If your greenhouse is heated so as to keep out damps, and 
enable you to give a free circulation of air, you may keep your 
plants in such a shaded house all the winter; but your success 
will depend upon merely keeping them from the end of October 
until the middle or end of February, when the sun will be gaining 
access to them. The drier and cooler the plants are in winter, 
the safer they will be in such circumstances, provided the stems 
are not shrivelled, nor the foliage flagged in the one case, and frost 
does not enter in the other. An average heat of 40° will be safe, 
either from danger from cold, or from giving the plants stimulus 
to grow when there is no sun to consolidate that growth. For 
summer display, increasing water and heat as the day lengthens, 
the house will answer well enough, and will be useful as a safe 
place for bedding-plants. If you want a winter display, you 
must fix on a better site, commanding more sunlight.] 
CULTURE OF VALLOTA PURPUREA. 
“ I wish to ask your advice how I am to treat the following 
plant, and to ask if it is possible to have it as fine as I had it last 
September. It is a pot of Vallota purpurea, containing eight 
bulbs, which threw up fourteen stems of bloom, each truss having 
from five to eight flowers. It is now, and has been since the 
spring, in a ten-inch pot, and, after it went out of bloom, placed 
on a shelf near the glass, and a less quantity of water given to 
it. A great number of the leaves have turned yellow, and have 
been picked off; but still there is from two to three leaves on each 
bulb, several small bulbs appearing by the sides of the large ones- 
It was exhibited at one of our local shows, in a stand of three 
greenhouse plants, where it gained the first prize, and was very 
much admired. I propose exhibiting it next September, if I can 
get it up so fine ? ”— Philo-eeoea. 
[Your Vallota mot with a sad reverse somehow, otherwise it 
would have cast no more than a couple of the lowest leaves in one 
season. It was a magnificent specimen, the largest we ever heard 
of; but, of course, there are no practical limits to the sizes of 
such specimens as are made up of more than one plant. The 
treatment which suits Vallota best, is the same as a handsome 
pot specimen of Tomb Thumb would require, only that Tom is 
much more difficult to grow in a pot than any of the Vallotas. 
The same soil, drainage, watering out of doors in summer, all 
the sunlight this part of the world can afford, and the coolest 
place, away from frost, through all the winter months, will bring 
both to such a degree of perfection, as is required for exhibitions 
in town or country. All the true Amaryllises require just the 
same treatment as Vallota, while they are in growth.] 
VINES IN POTS—PLANTING VINES. 
“ My employer having recently erected a vinery, and being 
desirous of cutting a few bunches of Grapes the first season, wo 
have purchased a dozen Vines, specially for pot culture. The 
house is forty feet long, w'ith front and back paths ; also, a pit, 
well provided with bottom heat, running along the centre. Wo 
have already placed a compost suitable for Vines along the front 
part of the pit, fifteen inches deep and twenty-four feet wide. 
Would you advise planting the Vines in this compost—that is, 
without disturbing the ball any more than is necessary in getthig 
it out of the pot ? or should you prefer breaking the pot bottoms, 
and plunging them ? 
“ Our permanent Vines will not be planted for some time. 
What month would you recommend for their planting, so as not 
to interfere with those fruiting in pots—that is, with respect to 
temperature P The border for the permanent Vines is outside. 
—R. A. 
[Judging from our own experience, we should considerably 
widen the hole in the bottom of the pot, and plunge the pot 
in the compost for nearly half of its depth or so. This will 
not interfere with the roots in the pot at all, and, therefore, 
give no check whatever; whilst strength and vigour will be 
better secured for swelling the fruit, as, before that swelling 
period arrives, the roots will have found their way into the 
fresh soil. When you commence forcing, provided you use 
your bottom heat, you might cover the pot over with leaves, 
litter, or even a mat, that the heat at the roots might exceed by 
5° to 10° that for the top of the Vine. Thus, supposing that 
you set these dozen plants into your bed next week, (he roots 
might at once have a temperature of 55°, whilst the heat of the 
stems should commence at about 45°. Increase the heat of the 
air gradually in the space of three weeks to from 55° to 60° ; but 
never raise the atmospheric heat above that until the buds are 
swelling and breaking freely. Let the bottom heat be in advance 
of the top fully 5°, by keeping the atmosphere moist; and by giving 
this gradually increasing heat,—not so much at the roots as to 
injure them, nor so much suddenly at the top as to cause the 
end buds to push prematurely,—you w ill succeed in swelling and 
breaking every bud; and if the wood was properly ripened last 
season, almost every one of these buds will show fruit. We have 
seen strong canes break regularly and scarcely showing a bunch, 
but that was owing to want of maturation the previous season. 
A gentleman lately complained, that though his purchased Vines, 
in pots, broke every bud, and looked healthy, there was little or 
no appearance of fruit. He could hardly see, that in such cir¬ 
cumstances the want of the bunches could not with propriety 
be laid to the limit of his gardener, The breaking every bud, and 
the health of the Vines, showed that, as respects culture, justice 
had been given them. We do not think that if the plants were 
turned out in the beds of soil they would have equal justice as 
respects fruiting the first season. 
On the other hand, were we to grow Vines permanently in 
such a pit, we would plant them out at once, spreading the 
roots nicely, and disentangling them out of the round-ball 
shape, which they assumed in the pot; sacrificing a little ad¬ 
vantage, in the way of fruiting the first season, for the ultimate 
benefit of the plants. Had even these plants been turned out in 
