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THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, February 8, 1859. 
In the first place, I recommend a metallic stand, to 
place the glasses in, with edges, or sides, of three inches 
in depth, to hold water for evaporation ; and this stand, 
or flat dish, should be kept constantly supplied with 
water. In order to keep a moist air about the bud, a 
little moss may be placed over eacli bulb, the moss dipped 
in water occasionally, and the water squeezed out. I 
have tried this moss plan, and found it very useful. And 
how very complete it would be, to have a glass cover to 
the bulbs in glasses, which might be made highly orna¬ 
mental ; and, the sides resting within the water-stand, the 
vapour might be enclosed and the dust excluded. The 
water in bulb glasses should be changed twice a-weelc at 
least, as it soon loses character: but much care should 
be exercised in not bruising the fibres, which are exceed¬ 
ingly tender. When first introduced, the water should 
not touch the bulb, but yet be as close as possible, until 
the roots protrude ; indeed, it is questionable whether it 
is necessary the water should touch them at any time. 
Before I conclude, I must notice the great difference 
in character of growth in the various Hyacinths. Some 
put up their blossom-spike without foliage ; in others, 
we may have leaves four or five inches in length, and the 
future blossom skulking at the very bottom of them, as if 
ashamed to come forth. They generally flower best when 
the foliage and blossom-bud keep fair pace with each 
other. The fact is, there are quite three classes of them 
as to earliness; and to endeavour to force those kinds 
very early, which flower a month later in Holland, is 
sailing against wind and tide. 
I would strongly advise some of our chief nurserymen 
to send a man over to Holland, there to remain, from the 
first blooming Hyacinths to the very last, taking careful 
practical notes all the time, as to the order of their bloom¬ 
ing, and other characters. But it is of no use sending a 
shopman, or even a traveller: he should be a real gar¬ 
dener,—a man of experience,—one, too, who has been in 
the hahit of forcing them. As to urging that the cata¬ 
logues are already marked in this way, I would not give 
a button for them : they seem to be a complete stereo¬ 
typed affair. There is much to be noted by a practical 
person, which the catalogue-makers never dreamed of. 
The forcing of the Narcissi, Jonquils, Tulips, Crocuses, 
&c., is so simple, that I have little occasion to allude to 
them ; indeed, their treatment is pretty nearly identical. 
The old double Roman Narcissus is one of the best early 
things, when the roots are strong, which is about once in 
seven years : it is a pity but they received higher culture. 
The Waterloo Hyacinth, too, which some years since 
used to be as big as the largest cricket-ball, and put up 
four or five spikes, has diminished to half the size. 
Probably, it was sent over a year too soon. 
It. Errington. 
GREENHOUSE PLANTS FROM SEEDS. 
“Will you oblige by giving a list of a few plants that 
can be grown from seed suitable for the greenhouse, to 
come in at the various seasons ? Also, the time for 
planting them ? ”—A Regular Subscriber. 
We will make an effort to oblige you, mingling to¬ 
gether plants of a passing nature, and those which will 
be more permanent, though, in general, you must wait 
longer for the flowering period. If you have nothing 
but a greenhouse, you will succeed better in raising the 
seeds, by having a few hand-lights, or a small garden- 
frame, placed in the one end of the house, with rough 
cinders, for placing the seed-pots on, or plunging them in. 
The more regular the temperature is kept, and the more 
equable the atmosphere, as respects moisture, the better, 
in general, will the seeds vegetate. If comeatable, sandy 
loam, and heath soil, with a good portion of fine sand, 
should be used for sowing in. The pots should be fully half 
filled with drainage, with some nodules of soil and charcoal 
over it; then the rough part of the soil, followed by a layer 
of finer; and the finest of all on the surface. We prefer 
watering all the pots thoroughly, and allowing them to 
drain well for two or three days before sowing, and then 
covering every sort of seed, according to its size, being 
careful not to over-cover small seeds. If there is no 
other help but a glass-case in the greenhouse, from the 
middle to the end of March will be early enough to 
commence operations in spring. 
Abutilon striatum. — Keep close and warm after 
sowing. Prick off as soon as the seedlings are two or 
three inches in height. Will bloom all the summer and 
autumn, after the second or third year ; after that, should 
be pruned back to within a few buds of the older wood, 
every winter or spring. Loam and heath soil. A very 
striking, beautiful plant. 
Acacia annata, arandis, and pubescens, for specimens; 
and Julihrissem amiLophanta, for fine foliage.—The latter 
class will be nice little plants the second year ; and the 
first class, with many others, will bloom in the second 
and third season, and are easily kept afterwards, growing 
in fibry loam and a little heath soil. The seeds should 
be soaked in warm water—about 130°—for several hours, 
and the pots be plunged in a hotbed, if possible, until 
the plants are up. If no hotbed, defer the sowing until 
April or May. 
Ageratum Mexicanum. —Seed, sown in April, will 
give flowering plants in autumn and winter. Cuttings, 
taken in the beginning of autumn, will bloom in winter 
and early spring. The colour is pretty blue-lilac, but 
there is no pleasant scent. 
Alonsoa incisifolia. —Sown in March and April, will 
bloom in autumn and summer. Cut back in autumn, and 
preserved over the winter, will bloom in common soil 
early in spring and summer ; or seedlings, raised in 
July and August, will make fine blooming plants from 
March and April onwards. 
Anomatiieca cruenta. —A little bulb, that may pro 
duce a few flowers the first autumn; but most of them 
will bloom the second summer, and take up little space. 
Anagallts Parkensii and Phillipsii (fine varieties 
of this weather-glass plant).—Some will bloom in the 
end of summer and autumn; but, if saved over the winter, 
will make fine flowering plants in spring and summer. 
Balsams. —Sown in March, April, and May, and kept 
hardy and well aired, will afford a fine display in the 
summer and autumn months. After the first pricking 
off, the compost for potting can scarcely be too rich, 
if sweet and well aired. Stubby growth,—from plenty of 
cool air round them,-—in unison with good feeding, are 
the main secrets of successful growth. 
Calceolarias.— Both shrubby and herbaceous kinds 
may thus be freely produced. Sown in March, most will 
bloom in the summer and autumn. Sown in August, 
there will be plenty of bloom in April, May, and onwards. 
Use the slightest covering of sand, or anything of that 
kind, over the seed; press down, and cover the pot with a 
square of glass ; and, before the seedlings are well up, 
give what moisture that may be needed from the outside, 
or bottom, of the pot, instead of from the top or inside. 
Use light, rich, sandy soil, and, when once growing freely, 
give plenty of water and plenty of air. _ _ 
Ciiorozema.— This is a fine genus, requiring similar, 
but more particular care, than Acacias. The seedlings 
being pricked off, potted, stopped, and kept growing, 
may be expected to bloom the third season. 
Cineraria. —Varieties sown in April will bloom in 
autumn, being kept in a shady place in the heat of 
summer. Sown in June and July, and so treated, will 
bloom in winter, if the greenhouse is warm enough. 
Sown in September, or a little earlier, will secure fine 
blooming plants for February, March, April, and May. 
Cuttings taken in August and September, from plants 
done blooming, will also bloom well in spring. When 
bloom is wanted early, use small pots. When fine 
