THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, March 1 , 1859. 
837 
quickly, two plants of each might be had. But by the 
time the plants are in eighteen-inch pots, or boxes, one 
plant should be sufficient for a space fourteen feet by ten 
feet. The kermesina will want no other care than, when 
it is established, pruning back on the spur-pruning prin- 
cipleat the commencement of each winter. The other, 
in addition to that, would be the better for lessening water 
earlier in autumn, to retard and ripen growth then ; and, 
in winter, to have the surface of the pot, or box, covered 
with dry moss, and the whole pot surrounded with a cloth, 
to keep the roots comfortable. If the house fell often 
below 40° in winter, the whole stem might also, after 
spur-pruning, be wrapped in a cloth, and kept there ; or 
the whole plant might be moved when in this condition, 
and placed under the stage in a cold place in the plant 
stove. I have had both these large-flowering Passion¬ 
flowers, quadrangularis and Buonapartca, in fine order in 
a vinery, whilst the roots were in a box in a cool stove, and 
a hole made in the partition for the stem to get through. 
I have also had the back of a vinery covered with them, 
when forcing commenced in February ; but though the 
house was frequently below 40° in winter, the roots were 
grown in a small brick pit, below the ground level. The 
reason, therefore, will be obvious, why, in the case of an 
exposed pot, I should recommend protecting it in 
winter. When the stems are a year or two old, and well 
hardened, they will stand a good degree of cold with im¬ 
punity. The long summer shoots that produce the 
flowers, should be cut back to a bud or two every winter. 
Of course, with these summer blooming would be the chief 
thing: but as the stems would be leafless, or nearly so, in 
winter, other flowering plants might be placed against 
the partition at that time, and do no harm to the Passion¬ 
flowers. 
CLERODEXDRXni J3TTKGII AND SPLENDEXS. 
“ Young plants, vigorous, not blooming. Bungii lost 
its leaves. Temperature since October from 50° to 55°. i 
When cut down ?”-—Young plants require more heat than ) 
old ones. Sj>lendens can scarcely have too much of it in 
summer, in unison with a moist atmosphere—lessening 
moisture as autumn approaches. Do not cut down: but 
as soon as yon increase the heat to 60° and 70°, prune 
back the young shoots to two or three buds, and shorten : 
the main shoot a little. 
SIANETTIA BICOLOR. 
“ When is it to be potted to have a good plant by 
August?”—As soon as you like, if yon cangive.tke plant 
more heat than a greenhouse. A slight bottom heat to 
start it will do it no harm. This extra heat and encourag¬ 
ing growth may be continued until the middle of June, 
when a good position in the greenhouse will suit it. We 
hardly expect, however, that even then the plant can be 
brought to its best in August, even though you begin to 
curtail water in July, to arrest growing and encourage 
blooming ; as it is just as natural for this plant to bloom 
in the winter and spring months, as it is for a Snowdrop to 
bloom in February and March. 
ALLYMANDA SCIIOTTII. 
“When is this cut down, so as to bloom in August ?”— 
Merely shorten, or cut back, to within a few buds of the 
older wood, according to strength, a week before you can 
place the plants in a nice growing heat of from 65° to 70°; 
the sooner the better. 
LESCHENAULTIA FORMOSA. 
“ Why are the tips of the shoots dying off at this 
season ?”—Most probably owing to too much moisture at 
the roots in such dull weather, too low a temperature, 
and not a sufficiently active circulation of air. Light a 
fire in the daytime, and give more air. 
AZALEA GLADSTANESII. 
“ How can I make a plant three feet high break from 
the stem?”—If healthy, give heat and moisture to make 
it grow freely. Stop all the shoots already on the plant, 
to throw the vital energies into the stem. If you have a 
sweet hotbed, place the pot on a board on its broad side, 
and let the stem be supported six inches above the bed ; 
and place a thin cloth over it, that the heat and moisture 
from the bed may act on the stem. If that does not cause 
buds to break there, I shoidd imagine the case to be 
hopeless. Old plants of Azaleas, with their main stems and 
shoots hard and hide-bound, do not stand free cutting-in 
well. JL Fish. 
THE PELARGONIUM. 
Mr. Charles Turner, of Slough, is undoubtedly the 
best grower of the Pelargonium at the present time ; and, 
consequently, is a good judge of its culture. He says, 
“No flower is more easily cultivated than the Pelar¬ 
gonium ; yet none is more generally mismanaged.” His 
example, however, is beginning to have its effect, even in 
distant and divers parts of the kingdom. I frequently, 
in private gardens, meet with plants that would not dis¬ 
grace the collection at Slough. In this paper I intend 
to give a list of the best approved new and older varieties ; 
and previous to doing so, I shall give a few brief hints of 
the most important points of culture. 
Cleanliness. —Like all other plants, the Pelargonium 
suffers from dust, effluvia from decaying leaves, dirty 
glass, and the green fly. These must all he avoided. If 
the leaves are foul from Avhatever cause, that foulness 
must be removed; dust and dirt must be washed off with 
a soft sponge ; every decayed leaf instantly removed 
clean away out of the house ; the glass must be kept 
clear of dust or green moss inside and out; the stage and 
floor frequently washed; the walls whitewashed at least 
once a-year ; the pots, also, should be kept clear of green 
moss or any other dirt; and lastly, no weeds or moss 
should ever he seen on the soil. The insects should be 
kept under by frequent smokings of tobacco. Then all 
will be sweet; and the plants will be grateful for this 
attention, and keep in health all the time they are under 
glass. 
Position.— One point in regard to position is, that, 
from a small' plant to a large one, it must stand close to 
the glass ; that is, as near as is consistent with space to 
allow for growth. Another point is, that the pots should 
stand at such a distance from each other, that the leaves 
do not touch: and lastly, if possible, the house should 
contain no other kind of plants. The great growers, 
such as Turner, Dobson, Gaines, Frazer, and others, even 
carry this point so far as to have separate houses for the 
large kinds and the fancy varieties. Let the young 
grower, however, not despair even if he have not such 
ample means. I always advise such to do as well as they 
can with the means at their command. 
Air. — This health-giving indispensable element should 
be given at all times of the year, excepting in severe 
frost; and even then, if the sun shines bright, air must 
be given, taking care that the plants are not exposed to 
draughts of frosty air. 
Water. —This is also an important element, which must 
be used properly, or evil results will follow. Iu autumn 
and wiliter, no more must be given than is sufficient 
to keep the leaves from bagging: but when spring arrives, 
and the plants are evidently growing, it should be used 
more freely. A gentle syringing in the evenings of warm 
days will assist to keep the leaves clean, and be. of great 
advantage. As the season advances, a watering with 
diluted liquid manure, once or twice every week, will be 
of essential service; it will keep the old leaves in health 
a longer time. 
Soil .—The top spit of an old pasture and hotbed dung, 
in equal parts, laid in a heap for a year, and frequently 
turned over during that time, will grow them well. Adding 
a small quantity of river, or silver, saud, to make it open 
and let- the water through freely, will improve the eompost. 
