351 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, March 8, 1859. 
Skin red, and hairy. Of second-rate quality. Bush 
pendulous. 
Pastime (Bratherton’s), l.f. — Large and roundish. 
Skin dark red, and hairy. Of second-rate quality. The 
fruit is often furnished with extra bracts attached to its 
sides. Bush pendulous. 
Perfection (Gregory’s), l.p. — Large and roundish. 
Skin green, and downy. A first-rate variety, and late. 
Bush pendulous. 
Pigeon’s Egg. See Miss Bold. 
Pitmaston Green Gage. —Small and obovate. Skin 
green, and smooth. A first-rate variety, very sugary, 
and will hang on the bush till it becomes shrivelled. 
Bush erect. 
Prince of Orange (Bell’s), L.r. —Large and oblong. 
Skin yellow, and downy. Of second-rate quality. Bush 
pendulous. 
Prince [Regent (Boardmau’s), l.p. — Large and 
roundish. Skin dark red, and smooth. A second-rate 
variety. Bush spreading. 
Princess Royal, l.p. — Large and obovate. Skin 
greenish-white and hairy. Of first-rate quality. Bush 
pendulous, and a good bearer. 
Profit (Prophet’s), l.p. — Large and oblong. Skin 
green and downy. Of second-rate quality. Bush 
spreading. 
Queen Caroline (Lovart’s).—Medium sized, obovate. 
Skin white and smooth. Of second-rate quality. Bush 
erect. 
Raspberry (Old Preserver; Nutmeg). — Eruit small, 
roundish-oblong. Skin thick, dark red, and hairy, ltichly 
flavoured and sweet. Ripens early. Bush spreading, 
and a good bearer. 
Red Champagne (Dr. Davies' Upright; Countess of 
Errol; Ironmonger, in Scotland).—Small and roundish- 
oblong, sometimes tapering towards the stalk. Skin 
rather thick, light red, and hairy. Flavour very rich, 
vinous, and sweet. Bush very erect, and a good bearer. 
This is known in Scotland by the name of “ Ironmonger.’ 
Red Mogul. —Small, and roundish-oblong. Skin thin, 
red, with a mixture of green, and hairy. Of first-rate 
quality. Bush spreading, and a good bearer; leaves 
smooth, by which it is distinguished from Ironmonger. 
Red Oval, l.p. —Large and oval. Skin red, and hairy. 
Of first-rate quality. Bush spreading. 
Red Walnut (Murrey; Eukersley’s Double-hearing). 
—Medium sized, obovate. Skin red, and downy. An 
early variety. Of second-rate quality. Bush spreading. 
Red Warrington (Aston; Aston Seedling ; Volunteer). 
—Above medium size, roundish-oblong. Skin red, and 
hairy. A first-rate late variety, and highly esteemed for 
preserving. Bush pendulous. 
Rifleman (Leigh’s), l.p. (Alcoclc’s Duke of York; 
Yates' Royal Anne; Grange's Admirable). —Large, 
roundish. Skin red, and hairy. A first-rate late variety. 
Bush erect, and a good bearer. 
Ringleader (Johnson’s), l.p. — Large and oblong. 
Skin red, and smooth. A second-rate variety. Bush 
pendulous. 
(To be continued.) 
QUERIES AND ANSWERS. 
STEPHANOTIS FLORIBUNDA CULTURE. 
“ At the end of my greenhouse, looking north-west, I have a 
Stephanotis florihunda, which has looked very nice all the sum¬ 
mer ; but the frost has cut it down a week or two since to within 
nine inches of the ground. I cut it down as far as it was killed, 
and repotted it. Have I done right ? Should I put it into my 
Cucumber-house until it begins to grow again?”—A Constant 
Reader. 
[You will do little good with this Madagascar plant in a 
common greenhouse, even though frost be excluded, and the 
plant kept as dry as is consistent with the leaves remaining hi a 
succulent state. We once grew it in a conservatory where plants 
were kept in bloom in winter, night temperature ranging from 
45° to 50% and a fair rise from sunshine when it could be had, 
and here the plant did very well, flowering nicely in summer ; but 
when the temperature of the house was lowered, merely to keep 
the plants in it safe from frost, the Stephanotis began to give way, 
one branch dying after another, until at length the stem and roots 
also went. Even, therefore, if the frost had not been admitted, 
we would not have held out sanguine hopes of success, unless the 
greenhouse were kept warmer than usual. We should almost fear, 
if the top were so much frosted as the leaf sent, that the roots also 
| must have been injured. If not, you did quite right in placing 
the plant, with its pot, in your Cucumber-lrame; but it should 
have had the coldest corner where a fan - amount of air could bo 
given, and the pot should have stood on the surface, and not been 
plunged; on the principle of not suddenly presenting even the 
roots to two extremes of heat and cold. On the same principle, 
unless the soil about the roots were in a sodden, waterlogged state, 
we would not have repotted the plant before placing it in the 
extra heat; but would have deferred that operation until, if the 
base of the stem and the roots being right, fresh shoots should 
have been protruded. The frosting and cutting down gave a 
severe check to the system of the plant; the repotting, however 
done, would give another cheek, and thus, in the case of all plants 
in pots, it is sound policy to give only one of these checks at a 
time; so that, when the top of a plant is pruned back, the roots 
may have full power to assist in the protrusion of fresh shoots; 
and then, when these are growing, the young leaves will, by a 
relative action, assist in the forming of fresh rootlets. If your 
plant should not recover so as to please you, you had better sub¬ 
stitute in its place, Mandevilla suaveolens. The Stephanotis will 
bloom well in a greenhouse in summer; but it should seldom bo 
below from 45° to 50° in winter.] 
CINERARIAS BLOOMING PREMATURELY. 
“ I wanted large flowering plants of Iheso in May, but they 
are now throwing up their flower-stalks ; and I am told that if I 
cut these down and repot, the umbels of bloom are not likely to 
be so good. What can I do ?”—Nemo. 
[You have so far been told correctly. Still, we have had 
fair plants from cutting down, or pinching back, at an early 
period; and if thoroughly resolved to try—we would not say 
farther than that — the stalks of flowers are not likely to be 
so uniform as they would have been, had the. flower-stalks 
appeared a month or six weeks later. Your error, we presume, 
was delaying to repot into larger pots. The Cineraria is one 
of the most easily guided plants we have. It will invariably 
make a great effort to throw up its flower-stalks, when grow n in 
pots, whenever the roots are curbed for w'ant of room, whetlu r 
the roots are growing in a pot of twelve inches, or of three inches 
! iu diameter. The best specimens in twelve and eight-inch pots 
are procured by such timely repottings. The roots are never 
permitted to press much and firmly against the sides of the pot 
until they have been transferred to their last pot; and then, 
shortly after that event, the flower-stalks begin to appear. Then 
is the time, and not before, to assist the plants with a little 
manure-water; and, if possible, more air and coolness, that the 
flower-stems may be strong and stubby.] 
GREEN ELY ON CALCEOLARIAS. 
“ I have given my plants plenty of tepid water, and enough of 
fire heat to keep them from falling below 45°. I have also 
syringed them freely, and yet they are covered with green fly. 
What am I to do ? ” 
[We hardly know; because, after the fly has obtained such 
possession, it is frequently the most economical thing to get rid 
of the whole—plants, fly, and all. If not so very bad, the first 
thing is to smoke them with shag tobacco, or tobacco paper; 
taking care that the smoke is not hot, and that the sun does not 
strike the plants forcibly the.next day. You must smoke two or 
