387 
1H1£ COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, March 22, 1859. 
many years. For immediate-effect, tlie trees should be prepared 
by annual root-pruning for one, two, or three years in the nursery ; 
but if not so prepared, trees of the usual size and quality may be 
planted, and suffered to remain for two years undisturbed— 
unless the soil is rich, and they make vigorous roots the first 
season after planting, in which ease operations may then com¬ 
mence the first season. Thus, supposing a tree to bo planted in 
November or December, it may remain untouched two years 
from that period; and then, as early in autumn as possible, a 
circumferential trench, twelve inches from the stem of the tree, 
and eighteen inches deep, should be dug, and every root cut with 
the knife and brought near to the surface, and the spade intro¬ 
duced under the tree, so as completely to intercept every perpen¬ 
dicular root. 
“ The treddle-spade used in this part of Hertfordshire is a very 
eligible instrument for this purpose, as the edge is steeled and 
very sharp. The following year—tho third from planting—a 
trench may be again opened, at fifteen inches from the stem, so 
as not to injure the fibrous roots of the preceding summer’s 
growth, and the knito and spado again used to cut all tho spread¬ 
ing and perpendicular roots that are getting out of bounds. The 
fourth year the same operation may be repeated at eighteen 
inches from the stem; and in all subsequent root-pruning this 
distance from the stem must be kept. This will leave enough 
undisturbed earth round each tree to sustain as much fruit as 
ought to grow, for tho object is to obtain a small prolific tree. 
“ I find that in the course of years a perfect mass of fibrous 
roots is formed, which only requires the occasional operation of a 
trench being dug, and the ball of earth heaved down, to ascertain 
whether any large feeders are making their escape from it. But 
it must be borne in mind that this circular mass of soil will, in a 
few years, be exhausted; to remedy which, I have had left round 
each tree, eighteen inches from the stem, a slight depression of 
the soil—or, in other words, tho trench lias not been quite filled 
in. This circular furrow I have had filled, in December and 
January, w ith fresh liquid night-soil, which lias had a most ex¬ 
cellent effect. Any other liquid manure would, undoubtedly, 
have been equally efficacious; but my soil was poor, and I thought 
it required strong manure. As it did not come in contact with 
the roots, no injury resulted from using such a powerful raw 
manure. 
“ There is, perhaps, no absolute necessity for liquid manuring in 
winter; as common dung may be laid round each tree in autumn, 
and suffered to be washed in by the rains in winter, and drawn in 
by the worms. In mentioning liquid manure, I give the result of 
my own practice ; the great end to attain seems (to use an agri¬ 
cultural phrase) to bo able “to feed at home —that is, to give 
the mass of spOngioles enough nutriment in a small space—but 
not too much -so that a tree may make shoots about four or six 
inches long in one season (for such, I conceive, ought to be the 
maximum of growth), and at tho same time bo able to produce 
abundance of blossom-buds and fruit. On trees of many variet ies 
the former w ill bo in too great abundance : removing a portion in 
early spring, cutting them out with a sharp knife, so as to leave 
each fruit-spur about three inches apart, is excellent culture. 
“ I have not yet mentioned the possibility of root-pruning fruit 
trees of twenty or thirty years’ growth with advantage. Irregular 
amputation of tho roots of too vigorous fruit trees is, I am aware, 
an old practice; but the regular and annual, or biennial, pruning 
of them, so as to keep a tree full of youth and vigour in a 
stationary and prolific state, has not, that I am aware of, been 
recommended by any known author, although it may have been 
practised. In urging its applicability to trees of twenty or thirty- 
years’ growth I must recommend caution. The circular trench 
should not be nearer the stem than three feet; and only two- 
thirds of the roots should be pruned the first season, leaving 
one-third as support to tho tree, so that it is not blown on one 
side by' the wind and these, of course, must be left where they 
will best give this support. The following season half the re¬ 
maining roots may bo cut, or, if the tree be inclined to vigour, all 
of them ; but if it gives symptoms of being checked too much, 
they may, on the eontrary, remain undisturbed for oue or even 
two seasons. If, as is often the case in Pear trees, the roots arc 
nearly all perpendicular, the tree must be supported with stakes 
for one or two years after complete amputation. 
“It will not, perhaps, bo out of place here to enumerate a few 
of the advantages of systematic root-pruning of Pear, Apple, and 
Plum trees, aud of growing thorn as pyramidal frees and bushes. 
“1st. Their eligibility for small gardens, even tho smallest. 
“ 2ndlv. The facility of thinning the blossom-buds ; and in 
some varieties, such as Oansel’s Bergamot, aud other shy-bearing 
sorts, of setting the blossoms, and of thinning and gathering the 
fruit. 
“ 3rdly. Their making the gardener independent of the natural 
soil of his garden ; as a few barrowfuls of rich mould, and annual 
manure on the surface, will support a tree for many, very many 
years—thus placing bad soils nearly on a level with those the 
most favourable. 
“ -Itlily. The capability of removing trees of fifteen or twenty 
years’ growth with as much facility as furniture. To tenants 
this will, indeed, be a boon; for, perhaps, one of the greatest 
annoyances a tenant is subject to is that of being obliged to leavo 
behind him trees that he lias nurtured with the utmost care. 
“ My grey hairs tell mo that I am not a young gardener ; and 
yet 1 feel, that in judicious root-pruning and annual manuring on 
the surface, so as to keep our fruit trees in a nicely-balanced 
state, we are all inexperienced. At this moment I am reminded 
of a wall in a neighbouring garden, covered with Peach and Nec¬ 
tarine trees in the finest possible health. 
“ For more than twenty years a healthy Peach tree was never 
seen in this garden, as the subsoil is a cold white clay, full of 
chalk-stones. This happy change has been brought about by 
biennially pruning the roots of the trees early in autumn, as soon 
as the fruit is gathered ; in some cases lifting them, and supplying 
their roots with a dressing of leaf-mould, sand, aud rotten 
manure, equal parts. Powdered charcoal, or the ashes of burnt 
turf and rotten manure, also make an excellent root-dressing for 
cold heavy soils ; but if the soil is dry, and poor, and unfavour¬ 
able to the Peach and Nectarine, loam and rotten manure are the 
best dressing for the roots, and also for the surface.” 
We cannot speak in higher praise of this treatise than to say 
that it has reached its fifth edition. 
VEGETABLE CULTURE AND COOKERY. 
{Continuedfrom page 269.) 
Cucumbers Candied. — For this purpose the Cucumbers 
should be fresh, sound, and at their best. Divide them down the 
middle into four; take out the seeds, and then cut into lengths 
of about an inch. Soak them for forty-eight hours in strong 
brine of salt and water ; wash them in fresh water; aud then put 
them into a pan, and cover them with another water, in which 
let them just boil up. Change the water, and let them boil up 
again, and continue to boil for about a quarter of an hour; after 
which, take them off the fire, and let them stand all night in the 
water to cool. Next morning put them on a sieve to dry. Make a 
syrup sufficient to cover them ; put in the Cucumbers, aud boil it 
up to candy height. Take out each piece of Cucumber ; give it 
one rinse in warm water, to remove the superabundant syrup; 
then put tho pieces side by side on a wire sieve to drain. When 
sufficiently drained, stand the sieve in a moderately-heated stove 
for tvvo or three days till they are dry; and, when quite cold, put 
them into boxes. 
Cucumbers, to fry.— Take off slices lengthwise, a quarter of 
an inch thick, rind and all; season them with pepper and salt; 
dip them in ilour, and fry them in butter. 
Cucumbers, to dress raw. —Pare them, and cut them into 
very thin slices iii a plate; strew salt over them ; and, after they 
have stood for about five or ten minutes, drain off the water, 
and strew a little more salt over them, anil a seasoning of pepper. 
Add two or three table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and turn tho 
Cucumbers well over in it; then pour over them tvvo or three 
dessert-spoonfuls of Chili vinegar; or, if that is not at hand, 
common vinegar will do. Turn them into a clean dish, and 
serve. 
Cucumber Ketchup. — This is an excellent condiment for 
eating with beef or mutton, and supplies the place of Cucumbers 
when that fruit is not to bo had. Take twelve good-sized Cucum¬ 
bers, and lay them an hour in cold water ; pare them, and grate 
them down fine into a dish. Grate also six small Onions, and 
mix them with the grated Cucumber. Season the mixture to 
your taste with pepper, salt, and vinegar, making it of the con¬ 
sistence of rich marmalade or jam. When thoroughly incor¬ 
porated, put it into a glas3 jar ; cover it tightly with a piece of 
bladder, and preserve for use. The vinegar used must be of the 
best quality. 
Cucumber Mangoes. —Take large Cucumbers; cut a long 
slice out of their sides, so as to take out the seeds. Then mix 
with part of the seeds some White Mustard seed; shred Garlic 
