383 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, September 14, 1858. 
not being thoroughly ripened, and that, again, arising from 
extra moisture and extra richness in the border. We are the 
more inclined to come to this conclusion, when you tell us 
that each Vine is merely fifteen inches from its neighbour. 
We can hardly see how a Vine, in such rich pasture ground, 
should have room for a sufficient amount of foliage to throw 
off accumulated moisture in such a narrow space. Double of 
the space would be better. The mildew, we consider, would 
be apt to be produced by the same cause. There would be a 
tendency for the whole plant to get gorged with juices, and, if 
dull weather should occur, the leaves would become unhealthy, 
because they could not throw off the moisture they would 
under a bright sunshine. If such premises are at all correct, 
then your course of treatment has done much to increase the 
malady. You use fire heat when the plants are in bloom, and 
until the fruit is set, and, we presume, give none afterwards. 
That extra heat assists the Tines at that critical period, but 
gives an impetus to head growth, and that again correlatively 
acts on the roots, which cater eagerly for the demand made 
upon them. When you stop firing all at once, you do not at 
once stop the root action, and the leaves get more moisture, 
especially in dull weather, than they can evaporate, and a sickly 
condition is the consequence. In addition, then, to the pre¬ 
ventives you have rightly used, we would advise lessening the 
nrmber of Tines,—say, to eight or nine. Secondly, if you 
use fire heat at flowering time, as soon as the berries are fairly 
set, sprinkle the water pipes several times thinly with a paint 
of water and flowers of sulphur ; and, in cold nights and dull 
days, put a sharp fire on, and give plenty of air, having some 
On always, even at night. Try this even now, but mind 
plenty of air. These will tend to harden and ripen the wood, 
and you may not require to do more. If carefully done, how¬ 
ever, there would be no danger in lifting your Tines, near the 
surface into fresh soil, towards the end of September, and 
draining the border properly at the same time. If there is 
growth on the Tines, all the better • but you must keep that 
from shrivelling by shading, and a free Use of the syringe. If 
you want well-flavoured, moderate-sized Grapes, you must 
set your face against rank manure. If that gets down four 
feet from the surface, and the roots revel and rot in it by 
turns, farewell to highly-flavoured, saccharine Grapes. If you 
could wait another season, we would advise trying now 
wliat an extra firing and plenty of air, with sulphur on the 
pipes, would do for you next year, in unison with keeping 
your border protected from rains in winter.] 
SETTING A FURNACE. 
“ I am under the necessity of writing you regarding a 
furnace, which I am about having removed. It stands within 
a glass house, and is a complete nuisance to the plants therein 
contained, viz., from the dust and smoke which accumu¬ 
lates from it j and, moreover, any plants which are placed 
in the above-mentioned glass house seem to lose their varied 
hues, and assume a sickly appearance. This, no doubt, is 
mainly attributable to the thick coal-dust, which is caused 
by the fire; hence, by removing my fire outside, I shall 
get clear of this injury. It is in reference to the position 
of my fire, or the place where I must, at all hazards, set 
it, that I respectfully solicit your advice. At the end of the 
house, where I purpose placing it, there is a walk running 
within four feet of the same, in that small spot I must 
have my fire placed. I intend to excavate three feet, place 
my fire entirely out of sight, and cover with a strong wooden 
lid. Will that answer ? Or should I, in case of its not draw¬ 
ing, for want of air, have a few holes in the cover ? By 
having it so placed it will be at least two feet below the flue, 
which, I think, ought to give a good draught.’* — D. C. 
Stalker. 
[Your proposed arrangements will answer admirably. 
There will be a good draught, if your furnace-bars are two 
feet below the bottom of your flue. Generally, enough of air 
would get in by the crannies of the door-lid to keep Up a 
necessary combustion; but it will be as well to have two 
or three holes, one inch in diameter, in the highest part of the 
door. This plan we adopt ourselves. Of course you will 
have a damper for your flue. We find a small hole above the 
damper,—6ay, an inchin diameter,—communicating with the 
chimney, will secure the combustion of most of the smoke ; 
as the cold air rushing in beats back the smoke over the fire 
again.] 
MANAGEMENT OF A FEW FERNS. 
tc I have some Ferns (including P Leris hastata , Aspidium 
Sieholdii , Darea media , Adiantum formosum , and Gymno- 
gramma chrysophylla ) planted in a greenhouse, in a border 
underneath the open shelf, near the front glass, so that, when 
the plants above are watered, the water percolates through 
the openings in the shelf, and reaches the Ferns below. They 
are planted in peat soil, with very good drainage underneath. 
Can you give me any hints as to their cultivation, especially as 
to their treatment during winter?”—W. M. F. 
[Your P Leris hastata and Adiantum formosum are hardy 
greenhouse Ferns, and will thrive (but tolerably) under the 
front open shelf of your greenhouse. The Gymnogramma 
chrysophylla is a tender stove species, and will certainly 
perish in winter in the situation you say it is growing in now. 
The Aspidium Sieboldii and Darea media are unknown to 
us, and certainly are not in any ordinary catalogue. The 
Ferns in winter require a slight rest, and should then be kept 
moderately dry ; hence, it is to be feared the drip from your 
plants will destroy them. To save them, take them up, and 
pot them, placing them on a shelf rather shaded; then keep 
them just moist, and free from frost. In the spring you may 
replant in the place where they now' are. Some coarse, com¬ 
mon kinds will bear almost any treatment,—such you may 
leave to their fate. Though Ferns love shade, they do not 
like to live in a dark swamp. See Mr. Appleby’s remarks in 
a late number as to the treatment of greenhouse Ferns.] 
ARTILLERY PLANT-COLZA OIL. 
“ A friend has recently given me a plant called the ‘ Ar¬ 
tillery Plant,’ and can give me no other name or information ; 
about it; nor can I, under that name, find any reference to 
it in any horticultural works I have in my possession. It is 
so curious a plant, that, though Unable scientifically to de¬ 
scribe it, I think it must be well known. It grows, in, shape, 
something like a Fern, but has no other resemblance. From 
the upper surface grow a number of the most minute red 
buds ; and when the plant is immersed in water, or copiously 
sprinkled, the buds open, and disclose a little white flower, 
and at the same time emit smoke, which is, of course, w T hat 
has obtained for it the name of the Artillery Plant. Can you j 
tell me its name ? Could you also inform me from wdiat 
plant Colza oil is extracted ? A French work mentions 
‘ Colza ’ as one of the varieties of Brassica oleracea, but £ 
find this name in no other work ; and a question has been 
raised, as to whether the oil is not extracted from a mixture 
of seeds. In Belgium there are acres of Buck Wheat grown, 
and one party alleges they w r ere told that this w T as to extract 
oil from the seeds ; and also throughout Germany there are 
fields of white Poppies, from the seeds of which oil is 
extracted ; and it is asserted that all these seeds are seilt to 
the oil mills in the neighbourhood of Lisle ; and the question 
is, from ivhivh, or all s is the Colza oil extracted ? It is also 
positively denied by one of the disputants, that oil is ever ex¬ 
tracted from Buck Wheat: if not, for what is it grown, as 
they do not preserve game in Belgium ? ”—II. M., Herts. 
[the “ Artillery Plant,” or “ Pistol Plant,” is called by 
botanists Piled allitrichoides , and has been frequently men¬ 
tioned in our pages. It is a native of the West Indies. Colza 
oil differs little, if any, from Rape oil. It is pressed out of 
the seeds of Brassica campesiris, var. oUifera , or oil-pro¬ 
ducing. It is a native of this country, and called the Wild 
Navcw or Coleseed. On the Continent, where it is largely 
cultivated for the manufacture of oil, it is called Colsat, or 
Colza, of which our word Coleseed is a corruption.] 
FRUIT TREES FOR A SOUTH WALL OF FORTY 
YARDS. 
A subscriber (G), asking for advice on planting fruit trees 
against a new wall he has just built, lias very properly given the 
