THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, Mat 15, 1800. 
103 
DETAILED PLAN OF PROPOSED GEOMETRIC GARDENS OF THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY 
AT SOUTH KENSINGTON. 
Tiie Architecture (the Conservatory and Corridors) is upon Many Seats and small Tazze will be introduced about, the 
Three Levels, and the Gardens likewise are so, exclusive of the Gardens, which the small scale of the Plan renders it difficult to 
several Terraces. show; these are omitted, and sites for principal Sculpture only 
Although the respective sites of tall single Trees and Groups are given, 
are indicated to render the competition of the Design complete, The Architecture is represented by dark-grey shading, 
they cannot as yet be particularised till much consideration is i Walks, orange. 
given to a selection of Plants already prepared for removal from Trees of varied size, green circles. 
the Society’s Garden at Chiswick. Grass Slopes of Terraces and Groups of Shrubs, neutral green. 
A Entrance from Exhibition Road. 
B Centre Walk to Ante-Garden, lead¬ 
ing to Principal Garden. 
1. Basin for Nymphsea. 
3. Ferns and Rock Plants. 
5. Tall Trees, round and spiral. 
(1. Belt of Evergreen Shrubs. 
7. Compartment for American Plants, 
with Grass Alleys. 
8. Belt of Evergreens, to seclude the 
American Compartment. 
9. Pheasantry, 50 feet by 30 feet. 
10. Mass of Shrubs. 
11. Aviary for Song Birds. 
12. Maze, formed by Yew or Hornbeam 
Hedges, about a quarter of an acre. 
C Entrance from Prince Albert Road. 
D Centre Walk to Principal Garden, on 
a higher level than Ante-Garden. 
13. Basins. 
14. Diagonal Grass Promenade (access 
by Grass Ramps). 
15. Large Compartment for Flowers and 
Box Embroidery. 
10. Mass of very low Shrubs. 
17. Group of low Trees. 
18. Shrubs of medium height. 
19. Avenue of Spiral Evergreen Shrubs. 
20. Standard Portugal Laurels on the 
Yerges, which latter are 15 inches 
above the Surfaces of Compart¬ 
ments and Promenades. 
E Branch Walk to Conservatory 
Terraces. 
21. Circular Compartment for Flower¬ 
beds and Box Embroidery. 
22. Standard Roses. 
23. Dwarf Evergreen Shrubs. 
24. Large Basin, with Cascade 18 feet 
wide and 11 feet high. 
25. Compartment for Flower-beds (with¬ 
out Embroidery) accompanied by 
26. Groups of Flowering Shrubs, &c. 
27. Standard Rhododendron. 
F Lower or First Terrace. 
G Second Terrace. 
28. Memorial Sculpture for Great Exhi¬ 
bition of 1851. 
29. Large Trees. 
30. Band Houses (East and West) on 
circular paved Platforms. 
H Third Terrace. 
31. Kcrbed Bed for Flowers between j 
Steps to Conservatory Arcade. 
32. Belt of Shrubs. 
K Upper Terrace, on a level with L T pper 
Corridor. 
33. Steps down to Band House and 
Lower Terrace. 
34. Kerbed Bed for toll Flowers. 
35. Steps to the Lowest Level of the 
Garden. 
36. Canals for Running Water supplied 
by Cascades. 
37. Walks round Canals (seats under i 
Retaining Walls of East and West [ 
Terraces). 
38. Basin, with Jets. 
39. Steps to Lower Terraces, opposite 
Centres of Middle Corridor. 
L Centre Cross-walk from East and 
West Corridors. 
40. Avenue of Standard Roses, and Beds 
for Dwarfs. 
IV! Middle Corridor Walk. 
41. Frieze Compartments for medium¬ 
sized Flowers. 
42. Kerbed Beds for tall Flowers. 
43. Moulded Kerbed Beds, with large 
Tazze for tall Flowers. 
44. Group of Low Flowering Shrubs. 
45. Spiral Plants and simple Kerbed 
Beds for tall Flowers, such ns 
Dahlias and Hollyhocks. 
46. Panels of East and West Corridor 
Terraces, with Lime Trees on their 
flanks. 
17. Glacis sloping towards Canals, each 
embellished with Embroidery only 
(the object of the Glacis is, that 
the Running Water of the Canals, 
together with all other features 
across the Garden, may be visible 
from the Corridor or First Ter¬ 
races) . 
N South Cross-walk of Principal 
Garden. 
48. Bridge and Steps. 
49. Ramp, to descend to the level of 
Canals. 
P Walk under the Bridge, leading 
through the Lower Corridor of 
Ante-Garden (R). 
RT Walk from North to South Lower 
Corridor. 
S Signifies sites for principal Sculpture, 
whether for Figures or large Tazze. 
The Upper Terrace, K (above the 
Band House), would be favourable 
for Statues of Eminent Musical 
Composers. 
We take this opportunity of observing that Mr. Beaton was misinformed when he 
designer of this Garden. It is entirely the suggestion of Mr. Nesfield. 
stated last week that Mr. Nesbit is the 
GISHURST COMPOUND-STOPPING CHINA ASTERS—SY'RINGING VINES—JONQUILS AND 
AURICULAS NOT BLOOMING WELL. 
I have used Gishurst Compound in the proportion of 1 oz. to 
a little less than a gallon of water, to eradicate green fly from 
Verbenas, but it has had little or no effect. 1 kept the shoots 
pressed down into the water for about half a minute, and did not 
syringe with clean water after. The next day the green fly ap¬ 
peared quite merry, though not guile so numerous, and the leaves 
do not look the better for the operation. Should I repeat it ? 
[You should use 2 ozs. to the gallon, and repeat the appli¬ 
cation two or three times at intervals of a day or two, according 
to the severity of the attack.] 
May Asters be pinched back ? I want some coming up now 
to succeed a bed that will be out of flower about the middle of 
August. Will shortening them make them bloom later ? 
[China Asters will do no good if they are once stopped or 
touched at the top, or on the side. For filling beds which are 
over by the end of August, and all through September and 
October, the way to do it is to sow the Asters very thin in rows 
in the kitchen garden, from the 10th to the 15th of May in each 
year, to husband "them as if they were Cabbage plants, and no 
bed need be empty in the autumn if you have a square of ground 
full of transplanted Asters in the kitchen garden to go to and 
remove them at any day in the season.] 
Should Vines be sprinkled with water (very fine through an 
engine) till they come into bloom, and again after the berries are 
formed? And after syringing should the house be closed up, 
or should a free circulation of air be encouraged ? 
[It is a thoroughly good plan to dash ten times more water 
against Vines and against the walls or rafters and glass than is 
usually done, from the first movement of the buds to the be¬ 
ginning of the colouring of the berries, except for the few hours 
the pollen is on the wing. It is the want of thorough moisture 
at the roofs, and nothing else, is the cause of so much nostrums 
for killing insects. Mr. Carter, of Holborn, sent us a pot of 
some wonderful cure against insects, and the insects must have 
heard of it, for none came near us since. If the dashing of 
the garden engine is done after four o’clock in the afternoon in a 
vinery in May and June, and in May and June only, recollect, 
no need of any more air on that evening, unless the thermometer 
rises above 100°. Some will tell you to keep the house shut up 
for one hour only, after syringing, then to open it to cool down 
as soon as possible, so as to make the night rest longer. But 
that is not “ natur,” nor our practice or advice.] 
For the last five years my double Jonquils havo refused to 
blow, They are planted in beds on a south border, and every 
attention has been given to compost, Ac. Can it be that planting 
bedding plants with them has causod their deterioration ? What 
treatment should I pursue with them ? 
[The same want of suction at the roots, is at the bottom of 
the .Tonnnils. and these bedding plants at the top are the ruin of 
