134 
THE COTTAGE 
GABDENEE AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, Mat 29, 1890. 
frost. Then cover the ground where tender dvrnrf kinds are 
growing with moss again, to keep them alive through the winter. 
Standard tender Roses may he sheltered by tying some twigs oi 
Spruce Eir round the heads, or even branches of Eos or Laurel 
may be used for this purpose. If any doubt arises as to the 
hardihood of any kinds on standards, such tender kinds should 
be lifted up carefully in the autumn, and their roots covered 
with sand, or mould, either in a deep pit, or even a cold, dry 
shed. In such a sheltered place, their mature shoots will survive 
the hard frosts of winter, and when longer and warmer days i 
return, they should be replanted in good, fresh, enriched loam, 
and properly staked and securely tied. They will then thrive | 
well and bloom finely. By so doing the tenderest (which are 
often) fine varieties will be preserved. 
Pruning. — It is well know r n to such growers of the Rose 
as understand and practise the right method of pruning, 
that there is no point of culture so misunderstood or so 
utterly neglect< d. The fact is, there are so many classes of 
this beautiful flower that require, in order to bloom them j 
well, different modes of pruning, that jt is no wonder that 
serious mistakes are made. The lover and grower of Roses I 
should Btudy the character of the different classes according to 
their habit, and cut his trees accordingly. lie should not cut at 
random, nor all alike, nor all at one season. In order that my 
remarks on this point may be easily understood I shall treat of 
each class as it stands in the best catalogues, and as I have 
practised myself, the proper way to prune each class. I may 
first, however, remark, that ihe best season for the general 
pruning is as soon as the leaves are fallen in the autumn. In 
summer the only pruning necessary is to cut out entirely all the 
coarse, strong, pithy shoots that may appear; they only rob the 
others, and spoil the shape of the bush. At that season, too, if 
the tree should send forth a great number of branches so as 
to crowd the growths in considerable numbers, and thereby 
prevent the wood from ripening and the buds maturing, I 
would by all means thin them out whilst young to the extent 
of half or even two-thirds of the number. On no account, 
however, shorten in the shoots that are left, because, if that is 
done, the buds near the cut will break, and form weak shoots 
which will not ripen, and only waste the strength of the plant. 
Another preliminary remark may be made, and that is, if a 
succession of blooms is desired, then prune some in December, 
some in February', and some in April. Also, all new-planted 
Roses should not be pruned till the middle of March : the roots 
will then have gathered up a store of sap, and the buds in 
consequence will break as freely as those that have never been 
moved, though the blooming will be a little retarded by this late 
pruning. 
I shall now proceed to describe the right mode of 
PRUNING SUMMER BOSES. 
Provence and. Moss varieties require a rich soil and close 
pruning—that is, cut off the year’s shoots to two, three, or four 
eyes from the base ; on weak shoots leave two eyes ; moderate 
shoots three eyes ; and strong shoots four eyes. Some peg down 
the strongest shoots, but I do not recommend that plan ; for 
such shoots so treated do not flower so finely as if they were cut 
in to the proper length. 
Hybrid Provence. —Some of these are of a vigorous habit, often 
making shoots three or four feet long. Such shoots should be 
pruned to three-fourths of their length, all weak shoots cut out, 
and the rest arranged so as to form equal-sided heads, with room 
for the next year’s shoots to grow- and bloom. The rest being 
moderate growers should be pruned accordingly. 
Damastc. —These are of a robust habit, and, consequently, 
require the branches to be thinned out, and the yearling shoots 
to be left full two-thirds of the length when pruned. 
Posa alba and Posa Gallica, or French Poses. —I class these 
together, because they' require the same mode of pruning. Take 
a bush of moderate size, if the branches are numerous, thin clean 
out all the weak ones, and then cut in to two or three buds those 
that ave left. They will then flower freely. 
Hybrid China. —In regard to pruning, this class is distinct 
from all the preceding. Such as are strong growers shoidd first 
have all the small spray and such shoots as have bloomed, and 
then only just cut off the ends of the shoots that are to remain ; 
others that are weak in habit should, like the others, have the 
weakest shoots cut clean away, and the rest cut in almost close 
to the old wood. The Austrian Briar class must be pruned the 
same way. 
Hybrid Bourbon .—Requires a similar mode of pruning to the 
Hybrid China, excepting not so extreme in either the strong or 
weak growers. The word “ moderately” expresses the mode fully. 
Climbing .—Banksian Roses require a wall, and ns they flower 
on a kind of spurs, the young shoots should be encouraged, and 
Rid in their full length, and just the ends cut off. After these 
have flowered, the whole shoots should be cut out, and young 
shoots left purposely trained in, and cut the same to flower the 
succeeding year. This rod-and-spur system is suitable for all 
climbing Roses, whether they are grown against- walls, or on 
pillars, or wirework. 
pruning AUTUMN-ELCWERING EOSES. 
Hybrid Perpetual .—The pruning of this, by far the most 
esteemed and finest class of Roses, is the most simple and easy 
of any. All that is required is to thin out the branches so that 
the shoots that are left are from three to five inches apart, accord¬ 
ing to their strength, and then cut in the yearling shoots to two 
or three eyes. 
Isle de Bourbon .—Strong growers thin out, and leave the 
year’s growth from six inches to a foot long. Such as are of 
weak habit should be thinned out severely, and cut in to three or 
four buds, according to their strength. 
China and Tea-scented .—Dwarfs should be cut down annually 
almost close to the ground ; and standards should be pruned in 
equally close to the old wood. Both should be protected as 
described above under the head “ Winter Culture.” 
Noisette .—The pruning of this class is varied according to the 
habit of each variety: strong growers cut in very moderately, 
and weak growers pretty close. Some form compact heads, these 
should be thinned out, the best shoots left and shortened in two- 
thirds of their length. T. Appleby. 
{To be continued ) 
MILDEWED VINES AT CHIPPENHAM. 
Mr attention has been called to an article in The Cottage 
Gardener of the "8th inst., headed “ Mildewed Vines at Chip¬ 
penham,” purporting to have been written by A. J. Ashman, 
lately in my employ. On reading the article I was perfectly 
astounded at the gross mis-statements it contained, and par¬ 
ticularly the following as to the border : “ Oil, everything there 
is all right, for that every inch of it was done according to the 
directions and under the eye of Mr. Spencer, of Bowood.” I 
am really at a loss to conceive how the man could have had the 
intolerable assurance to have published such a falsehood. I beg 
most distinctly and positively to state that Mr. Spencer had 
nothing whatever to do in making the border referred to, nor was 
an inch of it done under his eye or direction, and that he never 
saw r it during the time it was being made. In justice to Mr. 
Spencer I feel it my duty to give a flat contradiction to Ashman’s 
statement, and I regret Mr. Spencer’s name should have been in 
any way mixed up with a matter which he had nothing to do 
with. 
As to the inarching with the Golden Hamburgh Ashman 
boasts of, and which he says “is driving up the rafter in a most 
beautiful manner, as strong and luxuriant as any one can desire 
it- to be,” I can only say the shoot died, clays before the article 
was published, by his improper and unskilful treatment, and 
which can now be seen by any person. In fact, as to the treat¬ 
ment of the Vines generally, Ashman is taking to himself more 
credit than he is entitled to.— Jacob Phillips, Chippenham. 
WHAT TO LOOK FOE ON THE SEASHORE. 
(Continued from page 70, T~ol. NX TIT.) 
CHAR II.—RADIATA. 
SEA ANEMONES. 
The next order in the ascending scale of animal organisation is 
the Radiata, so called from the various organs being arranged in 
a circular or radiating manner. These animals are so far naked 
that none of them are enclosed in shells; although some have a 
leathery covering over the proper skin, the bodies of those which 
are destitute of this protection are extremely soft, transparent, 
and gelatinous. The Radiata are either entirely free, or attach 
themselves by suction to fixed objects. 
The classes of Radiata which come within the scope of our 
work are the Polypi , or Plant-like animals; the AcalepJue, or 
