155 
TilE 
COTTAGE GARDENER ANT) COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, June 5, 1860. 
up and planted in nursery rows for a year, and afterwards planted 
in tlieir final situation. Some kinds require two years before 
they root well enough to be removed, and others, such as the 
Moss Roses, cannot be increased by cuttings, and, therefore, 
layering must be resorted to. An amateur or a cottager, how¬ 
ever, need not resort to this wholesale mode of layering. They 
may adopt the same method of tongueing, hooking down, and 
covering with any single plant they may possess, using only such 
branches as may be near the ground, and allow these layers to 
remain two years before they take them away from the parent 
plant to transplant them where they are to grow and bloom. 
By Grafting— The first point to attend to, is to choose a right 
kind of stock to graft on. The Manetti stock has been praised 
highly for this purpose by Mr. Rivers, and other large eminent 
growers, and in some soils it answers admirably. Others use the 
common wild Dog Rose of our hedges, which also suits well, and 
can be easily procured. For this purpose I have gathered the hips 
of this strong-growing wild Rose, cleaned the seeds out, and sown 
them, and when the seedlings were strong enough, grafted any kind 
of good Roses on them. Seedlings have the advantage of having 
better roots, and no trouble in seeking for them in out-of-the- 
way places. The stocks having been procured as early as possible 
after the leaves arc fallen, plant them out in rows two feet apart, 
on good, rich, ground. Here I would remark, that grafting Roses 
can only be resorted to, to have dwarf trees, and the grafts should 
be close to the ground, so that the graft may in time send out its 
own roots, and thus be independent of the stock. In consequence, 
stocks for grafting need not be strong nor thicker than the scion 
or graft. Good healthy roots with plenty of fibres may be used 
as stocks with great success, so that any amateur may easily find 
stocks to graft his new and choice varieties on. 
When the stocks are planted then look out for some good 
tenacious clay, and having got it let it be well worked, clearing 
out any stones or bits of sticks from amongst it. Work it well 
till it is soft, and, like dough, of equal consistency throughout. 
Add some horso droppings and cow manure, and mix them well 
and thoroughly with the clay. This mixture prevents the clay 
from cracking. Have a garden-pot handy filled with dry ashes ; 
and after the clay is applied to the graft, sprinkle a little of the 
dry ash on it, and it will enable the grafter to press the clay more 
firmly, and finish off the ball neatly and closely to the graft. 
Mode of Grafting .— Choose the scions as near as possible of 
the same thickness as the stock. The season for grafting is 
when the sap begins to rise, which in the Rose is, perhaps, earlier 
than any other kind of tree that is propagated by grafting. Take the 
scions off in January, and lay them in behind a north wall. Then 
in February, if the weather is mild, proceed to graft on the stock. 
The best mode of grafting is the one called the whip or tongue 
method. All being ready, first, with a bright sharp knife cut off 
the stock nearly horizontally, then cut off a thin slice on one side. 
Let this be a clean, smooth cut, to fit exactly with another clean 
cut off the scion, which must be now prepared. See that the 
bark of the stock and the bark of the scion fit together exactly, 
and also leave the lowest bud or scion at its base. Then cut a 
notch or slit on the stock, and a corresponding slit on the scion, 
and slip the notch on the scion into the slit on the stock. The 
graft is then ready to be tied. Use broad soft mat for tying with, 
and do this part of the operation neatly and quickly. Then im¬ 
mediately clay the graft as described above, and when a row is 
completed cover the balls of clay with soil, leaving just the tops 
of the scions above the soil. This covering keeps the ball of clay 
moist, and thereby preserves the scion alive till the union takes 
place.* 
By Budding .—This mode of propagating the Rose is more 
used by nurserymen than any other. Where standard Rose trees 
are required, it is the only mode that is successful. The best 
stock for standards is, unquestionably, the wild Dog Rose. These 
should be procured early in November, and planted in nursery 
rows immediately. Let the roots be pruned in, and the tops 
cut off to the desired height, some for tall standards to form 
weeping Rose trees, six feet or more high; others for ordinary 
purposes four feet high; and others for half-standards two feet 
high. Keep the different sizes separate. Choose, if possible, 
only such stocks as have fibrous roots; such as have large knobs 
of roots, though they may grow, yet they seldom make good 
heads and often die prematurely ; therefore, throw such away at 
once. In planting give to each stock about half a spadeful of 
well-rotted manure, treading them as they are planted firmly 
* The various modes of grafting were illustrated at page 72 of our 
present volume. 
down with the foot. Keep the surface well hoed during the 
spring and summer, and if any shoots spring out of the stem 
below the top three or four, rub them off as soon as they appear. 
If these stocks make shoots strongly the first year, they may be 
budded at the proper season. Buds take most easily on the 
same year’s young shoots ; therefore, if any of the stocks should 
not grow strong enough for budding, let them be closely cut in 
the autumn following, in order that they may make stronger 
shoots. The stocks having grown well, examine them about the 
middle of July, and if the sap is flowing freely, the bark will 
easily part from the wood. Then is the time for this operation. 
Procure a good budding-knife, make the blade very sharp ; 
also, have ready some soft Cuba matting, or some of the best 
Russia mat, thin, smooth, and pliable, or use thick worsted- 
thread. Cut it into proper lengths, and keep it just moist ready 
for use. These articles of the best quality being ready, proceed 
with the work by making a shallow, longitudinal slit on a smooth 
part of the bark of the stock, as near the main stem as is con¬ 
venient : this slit should be about an inch and a half long. Then 
cut this slit across near the top, and turn the knife, using the 
ivory end to raise the bark on each side of the slit. It is now 
ready for the bud. Take oil' a sound, plump bud, in a long, 
shield-like form ; cut off the leaf, leaving part of tho footstalk; 
raise the wood inside tho bark of the bud at the upper end ; by a 
smart twitch draw' off the wood, leaving the bud full of wood 
inside. Sometimes the wood comes out of the bud also, it is 
then considered worthless and is thrown aw'ay. Open the slit 
and slide tho bud down it to the bottom, and then cut off the 
upper part, just so as to fit into the cross cut on the stock. 
Then tie it moderately tight, and the operation is finished. 
I would remark, that the best part of the day for budding is early 
in the morning or late in the afternoon ; though if the day 
is cloudy and moist the work may go on all the day. Great 
care must be taken to keep the shoots containing the buds 
to be used in a moist state. Should the weather be hot and 
dry, or very rainy, the buds should be sheltered with a thick 
leaf—of Laurel, for instance, tied on the stock above and 
below' each bud ; but if the weather is favourable such a pre¬ 
caution is needless. In a month or six weeks the buds should 
be examined ; and if the wood on the stock has swelled much the 
ties should be taken off and retied loosely. It may be necessary 
to do this over again in the autumn, unless the bud has fairly 
taken possession of its new home, in which case the ties may be 
entirely removed ; but if this is done too early the bark of the 
stock separates from the bark of the bud, and the bud often 
perishes. It is almost impossible to give true and explicit 
instructions in words how to perform such an intricate and 
delicate operation. The budder must try and try again till lie is 
expert at it. 
By Suckers .—Many kinds of Roses on their own roofs throw 
up side-suckers at a little distance from the main plant. These 
may be taken up in autumn, and if strong enough may be planted 
at once where they are to grow. Weak suckers may be taken up 
at the same time, and planted in a bed in rows across it for a 
year or two till fully rooted, and should then be finally planted 
out. In all cases the tops of the suckers should be cut off, to 
cause side-shoots to be made. Sometimes a Rose-bush from 
neglect has spread wide. In such a case it is a good plan to tako 
up the entire bush, and cut it into divisions, each with roots, and 
replaDt them in fresh, rich soil. By doing so a number of plants 
are made, and much finer blooms obtained. T. ArriEBY. 
[To be continued.) 
PROTECTING EEOCCOLI IN WINTER. 
Your correspondent, Mr. Neal, at page 123 of Tue Cottage 
Gardeneu, seems to think all might have saved their Broccoli 
if they had taken proper care. 1 have for one tried the plan 
recommended by him for many years, but it has entirely failed 
this year. I have never found it to answer well except when wo 
have had a fall of snow previously, as they are very liable to damp 
off.—A Subscriber. 
EVERGREEN UNDERSHRUBS FOR A 
PLANTATION. 
Here are a few “ evergreen undershrubs for a plantation ” for 
your correspondent “ F. 0. E.,” if you think them worth while 
publishing for him. “ The abominable hares and rabbits ” do 
