170 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, June 12, 1860. 
Ne Plus Ultra. —Fruit large, cylindrical or oblong, 
frequently assuming a digitate shape. Skin very dark 
red. Flesh remarkably firm and solid, with a rich and 
pleasant flavour. 
This is a singular variety, many of the fruit being so 
divided at the apex as to appear like fingers. 
Nimrod.—I have not yet been able to meet with what 
is said to be the true form of this variety, all the plants 
I have seen in fruit having proved to be the same as 
Eleanor. 
Old Pine (Blaclc Pine; Carolina; Scarlet Pine ).— 
Fruit medium sized, ovate, even and regular, and with a 
glossy neck. Seeds prominent. Skin deep red. Flesh 
pale red, very firm and solid, with a fine sprightly and 
very rich pine flavour. 
After all there are very few that equal, far less surpass, 
the Old Pine in flavour ; but it is not a good bearer. 
Omar Pasha (Rival Queen ).—Wherever I have met 
with this variety it has proved to be the same as Myatt’s 
Eliza. 
Oscar.— Fruit large, ovate and angular, sometimes flat¬ 
tened and wedge-shaped. Seeds rather large, and deeply 
embedded, which give the surface a coarse appearance. 
Skin dark shining red, becoming almost black when fully 
ripe. Fiesh red throughout, very firm and solid, juicy 
and richly flavoured. 
An excellent variety for a general crop, coming in a 
few days after Black Prince ; and from its firmness bears 
carriage well. 
(To he continued.) 
DIBBLE FOE PLUNGING POTS. 
I Send you a description of a dibble I have had made for 
plunging pots, which I think will be a great saving of time where 
large quantities are so plunged. The dibble-heads are made 
exactly the size of the pots to be plunged, or at least nearly so ; 
with the addition of a tapering end for piercing the ground, and 
a rim for making a depression in the soil to allow the pots to be 
below the surface if required. 
a Socket for handle. 
b Dibhltvhead, size of pot to be plunged. 
c Point making cavity beneath pot to exclude worms. 
r A projection making an indent in the soil to receive the rim of the pot, 
The advantages of the plan will be found in quickness—and by 
keeping the handle of the dibble about upright, the pots drop in 
their place quite level; for watering; and, last and not leaBt, the 
worms cannot get in at the bottom of the pots, as the pots rest 
where the point of the dibble commences. 
I have had two made for 48 and 60-size pots. They are turned 
in hard wood, and the cone-shaped end is shod with iron. The 
best way would be to have them altogether of cast iron, if the 
demand would pay for it, with large holes for handles in the 48’s, 
and much smaller ones for 60’s ; as, the more weighty the dibble 
is, the less force is required to thrust it into the soil. I use an 
iron crowbar as a handle for my wooden pot-dibbles ; and in 
ashes, or where the ground is loosened previously by the fork, 
one person can make the holes nearly as fast as a second person 
can put the pots into them. Several gardeners have seen these 
dibbles, and think the plan is good. I hope some one will try 
and report progress. I have very few plants to plunge. I had 
them made to prove the plan. I think they are very useful, but 
I must not judge my own. I have planted some few Gera¬ 
niums with them, and other things as well. My borders and 
flower-beds are very light soil: therefore the soil is not too much 
compressed by using the said dibble, if it is well lightened up 
previously,—J. G,, Gardener, Fulham. 
THE EOSE OUT OF DOOES. 
(Continued from page 155.) 
Diseases.— Canlcer. —This may be caused by the roots getting 
down into a subsoil that has iron in it, or other poisonous matter. 
It shows itself by the ends of the young shoots dying off, or by 
swellings, which soon begin to exude sap and spread round a 
branch, which then dies. If a tree is already attacked by this 
disease, and the subsoil is the cause, then take it up, prune in the 
roots, and cut out the cankered shoots; then form a concrete 
with cement, sand, and old lime rubbish in the place; and as 
soon as it is set, replant the Rose trees in fresh soil upon it. 
In forming new plantations, examine the subsoil; and if it is 
not good, concrete a space under each tree at first, to prevent 
canker, for it is easier to prevent a disease than to cure it, 
Flethora, or too great luxuriance, so that the wood does not 
ripen, and then is liable to be killed by frost; or, if not killed, 
to produce unhealthy shoots the succeeding year. Plethora may 
be cured by lifting the trees and adding to the soil lime rubbish, 
road-drift, or sand, giving no manure till the trees have exhausted 
the soil, and evidently require help in the shape of enriching 
food. 
Unhealthy Sap. —In hot weather, when no rain falls for 
weeks, this sap forces its way through the pores of the leaves, 
covering them with a sweet clammy exudation popularly known 
as honey-dew, which chokes the pores of the leaves, and in¬ 
duces premature falling off. This may be cured by watering 
with a weak solution of salt and water : this corrects, as it 
were, the unhealthy secretions. This remedy has been proved 
to be effectual. 
Constricted Baric is certainly a disease. The variety grafted 
swelling faster than the stock ; and if not relieved it will in a 
gale of wind break away from it. When the stem of a standard 
docs not swell equally with the head, it may be relieved by in¬ 
serting the blade of the sharp knife near the ground, and 
drawing it upwards (keeping hold of the bark) to the grafted or 
budded part. If one of these longitudinal cuts does not effect 
a cure, make another on the opposite side. I have found even 
four incisions equi-distant neoessary to give entire relief to con¬ 
striction. 
And lastly, Mildew, the most formidable of all diseases to this 
tree. The leaves attacked by this pest appear whitish, in blotches, 
and feel rough to the touch. It causes the leaves to crumple and 
contract, and soon spreads to almost every leaf on the tree, 
deranging the functions of the sap ; and finally, if not arrested, 
destroying the leaves, and, of course, injuring the entire tree. If 
examined with a powerful microscope it will be immediately 
perceived that this disease is caused by species of fungus, or tiny 
Mushroom. This disease appears most strongly in cold, damp, 
still weather, such a state of the atmosphere being suitable for 
the growth of fungi. If a plantation of Roses, whether standards 
or dwarfs, is annually subject to this disease, I would advise the 
application in the autumn of the following :—Half a pound of 
soft soap, and half an ounce of black pepper, to one pound of 
sulphur, boil in four gallons of water for twenty minutes. It 
