THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, June 19, 18G0. 
177 
Day Day 
of of 
M’nth Week. 
JUNE 19-25, 1SG0. 
WEEKLY CALENDAR. 
Weather near London in 1859. 
Barometer. Tkermom. 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
21 
Tu 
W 
Tu 
F 
8 
Son 
M 
Plantagos, soveral. 
Queen Victoria Accession. 
Queen Victoria Proclaimed. 
Sun’s declin. 23° 27' N. 
Epimeclium alpinum. 
3 Sun. after Trin. [Midsummer 
Centunculus minimus. [Day. 
30.054-29.929 
29.850-29.819 
29.928—29.858 
30.003—29.898 
30.011—29.988 
30.083—30.020 
30.001—29.830 
74—56 
66—41 
76-55 
74-52 
69-41 
72—31 
78-53 
Wind. 
N.W. 
W. 
N.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
S.W. 
Rain in 
Inches. 
.01 
.13 
Meteorology of tiie Week.— At Chiswick, 
Sun 
Rises. 
Sun 
Sets. 
Moon 
Rises 
and Sets 
Moon’d 
Age. 
Clock 
bef. Sun. 
44 af 3 
18 af S 
sets 
© 
1 
3 
44 3 
18 
8 
40 a 9 
i 
1 
16 
44 3 
18 
8 
7 10 
2 
1 
29 
15 3 
19 
8 
29 10 
3 
1 
42 
15 3 
19 
8 
47 10 
4 
1 
55 
45 3 
19 
8 
3 11 
5 
2 
8 
46 3 
19 
8 
17 11 
0 
2 
21 
Day of 
Year. 
171 
172 
173 
174 
175 
176 
177 
temperature, of to daw J m ’ iruui ouseri auons during tne last thirty-three years, the average highest and lowest 
on the 20th, in m^^t^gTheperiod'lSl 0 day^C^'tc, -fni 93% ° C0Urred “ th ° " nd > in 13iG ’ «« cold, 30», 
WORK EOE THE WEEK. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Asparagus: as late and close cutting is one of tlie 
principal causes of weak grass, it is advisable to discon¬ 
tinue the cutting, to increase the strength of the plant 
ior next year. Celery, continue to plant successional 
crops into trenches ; take up the plants with as much 
earth about the roots as possible, and do not shorten any 
of the leaves. The earliest crops to have the earth 
loosened about their roots, as the late heavy rains may 
have battered them bard. Cucumbers, keep up the 
bottom heat by fresh linings if fine fruit is desired, and 
to be covered with mats at night, as they are now some¬ 
times unseasonably cold. If the plants have been bear¬ 
ing for some time, and the shoots are rather out of 
order, cut them back, add two or three inches of fresh 
soil, and give them a good watering; to be kept close 
and shaded for a few days, and then to give them a gentle 
syringing every fine afternoon with the usual treatment; 
they will produce a second crop. Endive, sow for the 
main autumn crop. Plant out a few of the early sowing. 
Serbs, the best time to cut them for drying is just as they 
are coming into flower. Lettuce, keep up a regular 
supply tied up for blanching. Make another sowing in 
drills where they are to remain. Potatoes, earth up the 
main crops; keep the ground between the rows loose. 
Spinach, sow a few rows for succession. 
flower garden. 
Make good all failures in the beds, and fill up all 
vacancies in the borders. Wlien pegging down the 
plants place them as much as possible with their beads to 
the north, when the influence of the sun will draw them 
upright more effectually thau if they had been pegged 
out at random. Carnations, tie them carefully as they 
advance in growth. Seedlings to be pricked out into 
beds when they have attained sufficient size. Pansies, 
continue to put in cutkngs ; nice small shoots taken from 
near the roots succeed best as cuttings and as plants. 
Tulips, break off the capsules when seed is not required; 
it will throw additional strength into the bulb. Tie up 
Pa’onies, Rockets, A eronicas, Lychnis, aud other such 
herbaceous plants that are tall or showing flowers, to 
prevent them from being injured by the wind. Plant 
out large specimens of Euchsias and Scarlet Geraniums 
on lawns ; to he well staked. Sow Ten-week Stocks, 
Mignonette, and a few of the best annuals for autumu 
display. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Continue to nail in tbe leading shoots of Apricot, 
Nectarine, Peach, and other such wall trees, taking care 
to allow plenty of room in the shreds. Apple and Pear 
trees are about this time subject to tbe ravages of cater¬ 
pillars—those of the Lackey Moth (Clisiocampa neustria) 
—they are now easily destroyed whilst they remain in 
groups or clusters ; but after their dispersion over tbe 
tree in all directions, their extirpation amounts almost 
to an impossibility. Thin and top the shoots of Currants 
No. 612 .—You XXIY. No. 12. 
and Gooseberries. A few leading shoots may be allowed 
a fortnight or three weeks longer before stopping them. 
STOVE. 
As the weather still continues changeable, be careful 
that the young shoots are not checked or injured by cold 
draughts, or by sudden bursts of scorching sunshine. 
Repot plants that may again require it. Attend to the 
training and stopping of such as are making rapid growth. 
Keep up a supply of moisture by frequent syringings. 
When the Orchids arc making vigorous growth never 
allow the y T oung and succulent roots to perish for want 
of water. Some of the free-growiug kinds will be bene¬ 
fited by more pot room, and those on blocks of wood, or 
in wire baskets, to have a little additional moss applied 
over the roots. As the Stanhopeas are now coming into 
bloom a careful examination is necessary to prevent 
injury to tbe buds by comiug iu contact with the sides 
of the baskets. 
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 
Keep the greenhouse moist by frequent syringings; 
turn tbe plants round from time to time that they may not 
become one-sided, and allow them to have plenty of room 
on all sides. Erequent stoppings will be necessary for 
Corneas, Chorozemas, Epacrises, Ericas, Pimeleas, Poly¬ 
galas, Leschenaultias, &c., to equalise the sap and to 
encourage the lower parts of the plants. A rapid and 
sturdy growth to be encouraged by shifting them as they 
may require it into three parts fibrous heathy soil to one 
part of turfy loam, and by attention to watering and liberal 
airing. 
PITS AND FRAMES. 
Renew the linings, if required, that the plants may not 
receive a check. AY. Keane. 
ESTABLISHING A LAAYN AYITH SPERGULA 
PILIFERA. 
Now as to the best way of managing Spergula pilifera 
for getting up a stock of it to cover a lawn with, and also 
how to plant a lawn with it when you have a sufficient 
number of plants to do so, and how to manage the lawn 
after it is planted, or sown with Spergula seeds. 
There is nothing on our hands, just at present, which 
requires the proof of the pudding so much as the proper 
management of Spergulas for lawns. If there is blood 
enough in the new Horticultural Society to raise the 
wind for me, and to embrace my offer to see an acre of 
the new garden at Kensington Gore covered with Sper¬ 
gula, I must, of necessity, make myself master of the 
subject to save my own pocket ; for, of course, if the thing 
should fail, I should, for conscience’s sake, be bound to 
be at the sole expense of getting as good a covering of 
grass for that acre as was on the rest of the new lawn. 
But what would be a much greater iuducement for me, 
would he to guard against making a fool of myself, at 
my time of life, by a forward experiment on a subject 
of which we have, as yet, no practical, or rather no pro¬ 
fessional acquaintance. 
