THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, June 26, 1860. 
109 
being put in in autumn, and remaining tliere a year. Cuttings 
of Bupleurum, Buxus, Juniperus, Rhamnus, Holly, Sweet Bay, 
Aucuba, &c., require a shady border and a sandy soil. They are 
put in in autumn, of ripened wood ; but young wood of these and 
all the kinds mentioned in this and the preceding paragraph 
will root freely, if taken off in the beginning of summer, when 
the lower end of the cutting is beginning to ripen, and planted in 
sand, and covered with a hand-glass. 
“ Cuttings of all Conferee and Taxacece. may be taken off' when 
the lower end of the cutting is beginning to ripen, and planted 
in sand, with a layer of leaf mould beneath, in pots well drained, 
in the month of August or September, and kept in a cold frame, 
from which the frost is completely excluded, till the growing 
season in spring, when they may be put into a gentle heat. It is 
not in general necessary to cover these cuttings with bell-glasses. 
Taxodium is an exception, as it roots best in winter. 
“ Cuttings of Hardy and Half-hardy Herbaceous Plants — 
such as Pinks, Carnations, Sweet Williams, Wallflowers, Stocks, 
Dahlias, Petunias, Verbenas, Rockets, and, in general, all her¬ 
baceous plants that have stems bearing leaves, root readily in 
sand under a hand-glass, placed in a shady border, or in a gentle 
heat, if greater expedition is required. All the cuttings must be 
cut. through close under a joint, or in the case of Pinks, Car¬ 
nations, or Sweet Williams, the operation of piping may be 
performed. 
“Piping can only be performed with plants having tubular 
stems, and it is only with a few of these that gardeners are 
accustomed to practise it. The operation is performed when the 
plant has flowered, or soon after¬ 
wards, when it has nearly com¬ 
pleted its growth for the season. 
The shoot chosen is held firm by 
the left hand, to prevent the root 
of the plant from being injured, 
while with the right the upper 
portion of the shoot is pulled 
asunder, one joint above the part 
held by the left hand. A portion 
of the shoot is thus separated at 
the socket formed by the axils of 
the leaves, and the appearance is 
as in fig. 7. Some propagators 
shorten the leaves before planting, 
but others leave them as in the 
figure. The soil in which the 
pipings are to be planted being 
rendered very fine, mixed with 
sand and then well watered, the 
pipings are stuck in without the 
use of a dibber or pricker, and the operation is completed by a 
second watering, which settles and renders firm the soil at the 
lower end of the piping. 
“ Cuttings of Soft-ivooded Greenhouse Plants —such as Pelar¬ 
goniums, fig. 8, Fuchsias, fig. 9, Brugmansias, Maurandyas, and 
Fig. 8.—A cutting of the Rose-scented Pelargonium, prepared and 
planted. 
all other soft-wooded plants, being cut off where the wood is be¬ 
ginning to ripen, and planted in sand or sandy loam, or sand and 
peat, root readily, with or without a bell or hand-glass, in a 
shady situation, and in a greenhouse temperature. Cuttings ot 
these and all other soft-wooded plants may be divided into one 
or more lengths ; it being only essential that there should be two 
joints, one for buryung in the soil to emit roots, and the other 
kept above the soil to produce a shoot. The cuttmgs of soft- 
wooded plants which root best, are laterals of average strength. 
“ Cuttings of Hard-wooded Greenhouse Plants — such as 
Camellias, Myrtle, evergreen Acacias, and most Cape and Aus¬ 
tralian shrubs with comparatively broad leaves, are more difficult 
to root than soft-wooded greenhouse plants. The cuttings are 
made from the points of the shoots, after the spring growth has 
been completed, and before the young wood is thoroughly ripened. 
planted. 
Fig. 11.—A cutting of the young 
wood of a Camellia, prepared and 
planted. 
If put in in February or March, such cuttings will be fit to 
transplant in July or August. Sometimes they are put in in 
autumn, or the beginning of winter, in which case they will not 
root till the following spring, and must be kept cool till that 
season. In cither case, all the leaves must be kept on, except 
one, or at most two, on the lower end of the cutting, which need 
not be planted more than an inch in depth, and should, hi 
general, be covered with a bell-glass. 
“ Cuttings of Heath-lilce Plants — such as Erica, Epacris, 
Diosma, Brunia, &c., are among the most difficult to root. They 
should be taken from the points of 
the side-shoots early in spring, when 
the plants have nearly ceased grow¬ 
ing ; not be more than from an inch 
to two inches in length, and cut clean 
across at a joint, and the leaves clipped 
or cut oil' for about half an inch up¬ 
wards from the lower end of the cutting. 
Thus prepared, they should be planted 
in pure white sand, with a little peat 
soil as a substratum, and the whole 
well drained. The pot should then be 
covered with a bell-glass, and placed in 
a frame, or in the front of a greenhouse, and shaded during 
sunshine. 
“ Cuttings oj Succulent Plants— such as Cactuses, Cereuses, 
Euphorbias, Mesembryanthemums„Crassulas, Stapelias, and the 
Fig. 12.—A cutting of 
an Epacris, prepared 
and planted. 
