THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, July 3, 1SG0. 
B pring months. For late blooms prune in March. Previous to 
pruning any kind of Roscb, it is necessary to know the habit of 
each group, and even the habit of different varieties in each. All 
strong growers, it may be remarked, in general should, after being 
properly thinned, have their shoots shortened in only two-thirds 
of their length. For instance, observe in Hybrid China varieties 
that Blairii No. 2, Fulgens, and Vivid, are strong growers, and 
require little shortening in. Others arc weak growers, aud these 
should be pruned in so as to leave from two to four eyes on each 
shoot. Then, again, the more common Moss, Provence, and French 
Roses should all be pruned in pretty close. Bourbons and Hybrid 
Bourbons are, as it were, intermediate in strength, and should be 
pruned moderately—that is, the weak shoots should be cut clean 
out, and tlxe rest thinned, and so left as to form a well-balanced 
tree, and the shoots that are' left cut in one-half of their length, 
l^oisettes, on the other hand, should be so pruned as to leave 
from three to seven shoots, according to the strength of each tree, 
nearly their full length. China and Tea-scented varieties require 
quite"a different mode of pruning. It may be designated ns the 
Pollard pruning. At the proper seasons for early and late 
pruning, cut off all the shoots close to the ground or soil in the 
pot. Many shoots will push forth; these must be thinned early, 
reserving the strongest, and those should be equidistant from 
each other. As they grow place a small stick to each, to be re¬ 
moved when the form is fixed, and draw the shoots, excepting 
one in the centre, from each other. I shall treat, however, more 
fullv on this point under the next head—Training. The large 
class known as Hybrid Perpetuals, may be pruned at any season, 
excepting the dead of winter, the cultivator may please. They 
are the most manageable in pots of any class, and bloom most 
abundantly at almost any season of the year with proper heat 
iind management. This class should be cut in to two or three 
eyes, and thinned out moderately. There arc two points the cul¬ 
tivator of Roses in pots should attend to. The first is, to cut 
and thin out the shoots according to the habit of each variety he 
may grow. The second is, to cut them so that when they grow 
they may form handsome trees. 
There are two forms he may aim at—-the pyramidal and the 
bush. To form a pyramid, he will leave the central shoot the 
longest, the next pair or triad a few inches shorter, aud the 
lowest shoots about the same length, but more spread out and 
a little depressed. Every shoot the following season will be 
doubled, or, perhaps, tripled, and then the form aimed at will 
be perceptible to the most careless observer. The bush form, on 
the contrary, will have no central shoot. This mode is resorted 
to for such kinds as are naturally of a dwarf habit. The 
pruning to obtain this form is something like that adopted 
bv a gardener with a Gooseberry bush. The shoots are all cut 
in equally as to height, and left at equal distances from each 
other. It is evident then that they will grow alike for height and 
strength, and the plant so formed will, when in bloom, present a 
dense mass covered with flowers. 
Roses of a climbing habit are sometimes grown in pots, and 
when so done should be pruned on the long-rod system, and for 
this reason—that they produce their flowers from lateral spurs 
produced on the previous year’s shoots : hence, when the shoots 
are obtained they should only have the ends of their shoots 
shortened in, excepting one or two, which should be cut down 
nearly to the bottom to produce rods to succeed those that flower 
that year. By thus having, as it were, two sorts of shoots growing 
together, a constant succession of bloom is produced every year ; 
the branches that have bloomed being cut down at the pruning 
time, or even as soon as the flowers fade, and thus more room 
and air will be given to the shoots that are to bloom next year. 
I have rather dwelt upon this part of cultivating Roses in 
pots ; and I trust the reader will pay particular attention to the 
directions for pruning his Roses, as upon that being done right 
depends in a great measure his success in obtaining well-formed 
trees, and a plentiful crop of flowers. 
Tbaining. —In oi’der to form handsome bushes and display 
the flowers to advantage, some art is needful. Some few may do 
without any help ; but, in general, the greater part will bo all the 
better for a little training. If the shoots are numerous, the leaves 
will require light and air. To open them out, twist a wire or a 
strong piece of twine tight round the pot, pass under it a piece 
of bast mat, and bringing it round the lowest branch, drawing 
it down towards, or, as the ease may be, close to the rim of the 
pot. Go round the plant and repeat the operation to every low- 
growing branch. Then thrust in the soil some neat sticks round 
the plant, and draw out the next cjycle of shoots and tie them to 
the sticks, inclining them outwards. If the plant has been pruned 
for the pyramidal form, place a stronger stick to the central 
upright shoot and tie it to the stick. If the plant is large, a few 
more sticks may be necessary to tie shoots to, to fill up the space 
between the central one and the first circle of sticks. This will 
give the desired form, and very little more care will be needed 
to keep the shape and display the bloom outside the shoot. Irl 
the bush-mode the sticks may be placed regularly, in order to 
form a uniform and regular bush without any overcrowding in 
any part. 
If the bushes are very tall, a neat wire hoop fixed about half 
way up the plant will be very convenient to tie the shoots to, 
and thereby do away with such a forest of sticks. 
To train climbing or twining Boses, procure some long sticks, 
and thrust in four or five according to the strength of the plant, 
a short distance from the edge of the pot. Tio a wire hoop to 
the top of the stakes, and tie each stake at equal distances from 
each other to this hoop. This will help to keep the Bticks firm 
in their position, though not absolutely necessary. 
Having fixed these stakes, then take one of the long shoots and 
carefully twine it round the outside of the sticks, tie it every six 
or nine inches to the sticks as it passes by each, and finish at the 
top with a tie near the end of the shoot. Then take the next 
shoot and twine it in a similar manner, keeping each at a regular 
distance from its neighbours, and so proceed till every shoot is 
tied to the stakes. The training of this class to stakes should 
be done just after the fall of the leaf. If pruned as directed 
above, the young yearling-rods may be tied in as they grow, 
alternately with those that are blooming. They should be 
allowed to grow their whole'lengfch ; because, if stopped, either 
designedly or by accident, the buds would break and thus spoil 
to some extent the next year’s bloom. 
I would just notice here, that all suckers must be diligently 
extirpated, and also all gross soft shoots displaced as they appear. 
In pots, moderately strong and equal-in-strength shoots are the 
best and should always be preferred. T. Appleby. 
{To be continued .) 
MEETING of tiie ENTOMOLOGICAL SOCIETY. 
JUNE 4tH. 
J. W. Douglas, Esq., President, in the chair. 
Mr. S. Stevens exhibited Callidium luridum, taken alive at 
Blackheath. Also two specimens of the grand Butterfly Papilio 
Antenor, captured in Madagascar by Mr. Layard. 
Mr. F. Bond exhibited two individuals of Peilephila lineata, 
taken at Brighton in May. Also specimens of the chrysalis of 
Sphinx convolvuli; and a monstrous cocoon of Friogasier lanes- 
trig, formed by three larvee working in concert. 
Mr. McLaehlnn exhibited a Cecidomyia, reared from galls on 
the common Broom. Mr. Ianson various rare Beetles from 
Perthshire; and Mr. Stainton several small Moths reared from 
larval sent from America and Germany. 
Mr. F. Moore exhibited a living Moth of the Eria Silkworm 
reared upon the Castor-oil plant. Mr. Gorham various rare 
Coleoptera taken near London; and Mr. Stainton specimens of 
Peilephila lineata, taken at Torquay and Lewisham. 
Mr. Tegetmeier gave an account of a remarkable family of the 
common hive Bee which he had reared, there being no queen in 
the hive ; certain workers, differing from the rest in shape, having, 
although unimpregnated by the males, laid eggs in the cells in an 
irregular manner, sometimes as many as five eggs being placed in 
a single cell. 
Mr. Westwood exhibited some leaves of the Beech, which had 
been mined by the larvae of Orchestesfagi, received from Professor 
Harvey, of Dublin, who had informed him that the trees for a wide 
extent"in the south of Ireland had been blighted in the manner 
shown by the specimens forwarded. 
Mr. S. Stevens exhibited a large species of Gad Fly (Tabanus), 
from the gold coast of Africa, which is exceedingly troublesome 
to horses, sucking them in the same manner as the English Cleg, 
but to a far greater degree; so that in the course of six or eight 
weeks the horses die from exhaustion and irritation. It was 
questioned whether this Fly might not be the true Tsetze of Dr. 
Livingstone. 
Mr. Baly read a memoir on the family Sagridee; and Mr. 
Smith a notice of the Cgnips quercicola, of which ho had reared 
not fewer than 12,000 individuals without the occurrence of a 
single male, which sex, he consequently believed, does not exist 
