TIIE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, Jots 17, 1860. 
210 
them under the frame or hand-light till fresh growth is per¬ 
ceived. Afterward give air, and gradually inure them to bear 
the full light and air. They may then be repotted, and treated 
the same way as directed for purchased plants. The classes that 
may be propagated by cuttings to grow in pots on their own 
roots are all the hybrids, Bourbons, China, and Tea-scented 
varieties ; also, where attempted, climbing Roses. The other 
classes, such as Moss, Provence, Alba, and Gallica, are best 
propagated for pots by budding or grafting. 
By Grafting. —The best time for grafting is in winter or very 
early spring. The stocks for grafting upon are either the dog 
Rose or the Manetti stock. Procure them early in the autumn, 
and choose such as are clean-stemmed, and with fibrous roots, 
and about the thickness of an ordinary lead pencil. Cut off the 
tops to within six inches of the roots, and trim in the latter. 
Then pot them in five or six-inch-wide pots in the compost 
doscribed for Roses in pots. Plunge them in an open part of 
the garden, and towards the end of January look out for scions. 
Choose such as are well ripened, and cut them into lengths with 
three buds to each. The lowest bud should be close to the 
bottom of the scion when grafted. Whip-grafting is the best 
mode for Roses in pots. I will try to describe it in a few words. 
Take the scion in hand, and with a very sharp knife cut off a 
slice at the lower ipart of the scion opposite the lowest buds. 
Then cut down the stock as close to the soil as possible, to leave 
length enough to hold the scion. Cut a corresponding slice of 
it; and then fit the scion to the stock, fitting the- bark of each 
accurately to each other. Hold them firm together, and then tie 
them with some cotton or woollen twine so closely that they 
cannot separate easily. The tie should commence at the bottom 
of the scion, and bo brought round again and again till it reaches 
the top part of the shoe. Then cut off the ends neatly; and 
cover the twine, either with well-tempered clay and cowdung 
mixed, or with grafting-wax, composed of five-eighths pitch, 
one-eighth resin, one-eiglith tallow, and one-eighth beeswax. 
Melt them together over a slow fire in a vessel, and lay on with a 
small flat stick when warm : this effectually excludes the air and 
wet. Proceed with the rest in the same way till all are finished. 
Then place the grafted plants in a gentle heat; keep down all 
suckers that may spring up, and shade in very sunny weather. 
When the grafts have grown a few inches give air and less shade ; 
and in a month’s time place them in a cold pit, to enable them 
to grow strong and get firmly established. No flowers should 
be allowed to bloom the first year. Towards the middle of 
summer they will be greatly benefited by a shift into larger pots. 
By grafting a year’s growth is gained over the budding mode of 
propagation. 
By Budding. —For stocks procure the same kinds as recom¬ 
mended for grafting, and pot and plunge them in a similar way; 
only observe not to out them so short, but leave them to form 
tiny standards from six inches to fifteen inches high. These small 
standards form very handsome bushes afterwards. Allow the pots 
to remain plunged; but examine them as soon as the buds break, 
and rub off all the lowest, leaving the two highest to grow. In 
summer, as soon as the shoots are strong enough, shorten them 
in ; and if the sap runs freely, allowing the bark to separate easily 
from the wood, then proceed to bud them. Procure shoots with 
matured buds; but do not cut off too many at once, and keep 
them with their ends put in water and out of the sun. Budding, 
as the name imports, means inserting a bud of a desired kind in 
a stock to form a new plant on that stock. It is a beautiful, but 
rather delicate operation. Choose a part of the stem to receive 
the bud that is clean and smooth. Make an incision lengthways 
with the blade of the knife just deep enough to cut through the 
bark an inch in length. Then cut that incision across at the 
1 top, and turn the knife round, and with the ivory end lift up the 
( bark at each side of the long incision. If the sap is in right 
order, the bark will rise very readily. It is then ready to receive 
l the bud. Cut it off the shoot about half through the stem. 
Then take out tho woody part, leaving the bark entire and the 
I bud full. Insert it in the slit, and cut off the top just at the 
t horizontal cut on the stock. If the two barks just meet there, 
l the chance of success is better. Then tie firmly with soft bast or 
worsted thread. This is a brief description, but sufficient, I hope, 
i to guide the inexperienced with practice to succeed in this 
l operation. In a month it will be necessary to look over the 
\ ties; and if the stem has swollen and the tie is evidently too 
tight, cut it open carefully, and retie loosely the bud. These 
j budded stocks may remain in tho open border till spring; then 
take the pots up, and place them in a cold pit to shelter the 
young shoots from the spring winds. All this time look after 
the stems, and rub off any shoots from them. Also, remove 
any suckers that may appear. Also nip off the tops of the 
shoots of the Roses, to cause them to form dense bushes; 
and afterwards prune, pot, and treat as described above for 
purohased plants. T. Aitleby, 
(To he continued,) 
VARIETIES. 
Vegetable Wax Tree (Rhus succedaneum). —In the New York 
Agricultural Society’s Journal, the Secretary notices the receipt of 
specimens of the wax and seeds of the tree from which the wax 
is made, from Hon. P. M. Wentmore, of New York, and says :— 
“ We have placed the seeds in the care of one of our best 
nurserymen, in hopes they may be made to grow.” The im¬ 
portance of this acquisition, as will be seen from the annexed 
article from the American Consul, London, to the Secretary of 
State, can scarcely be too highly appreciated: — 
“ Consulate of the United Statos, London, April 9, 1859. 
“ Sir,—I am pleased to be able to add another evidence of 
the forecast, energy, and enterprise of our commercial marine, 
in the arrival of the ship Florence, of Boston, Captain Dumaresq, 
at this port, from Nagasaki, in Japan, from whence she sailed 
on the 17th of December last, with a cargo consisting chiefly 
of vegetable wax. This arrival from Japan is the first that has 
ever occurred in any English port, and is gratifying to state 
that there is every probability of Captain Dumaresq realising 
cent, per cent, upon the w'liole of his outlay. The wax, and the 
berry or fruit producing it, being previously unknown in this 
country, and deeming it probable that it would be an equal 
novelty at your department, I take the liberty of sending to 
your address, under separate covers, specimens of the wax and 
berry; the latter growing in clusters, similar to Grape clusters, 
on trees varying from fifteen to twenty-five feet in height. The 
cost of the wax delivered in London is about eight dollars the 
hundredweight. The experience of Captain Dumaresq proves 
that the vegetable wax bears without softening a greater degroo 
of atmospheric heat than any other wax he has experience of. 
The Japanese mode of preparation of the wax is said to be very 
rude; the berries being first washed by rude appliances, then 
boiled, when it is formed into cakes of thirty pounds, and sub¬ 
sequently dried in the sun. Should the labour not be too costly, 
there is every probability that the tree might be successfully 
raised and the wax manufactured in the Southern States. 
“ I have the honour to be, sir, very respectfully, your obedient 
servant, “ Robekt C. Campbell. 
“ Mon, Lewis Cass, Secretary of State.’’ 
—(American Gardener's Monthly.) 
Boiling-point. —When heat is applied to a vessel containing 
water, the temperature gradually rises, and vapour comes silently 
off the surface ; but at a certain degree of heat, steam begins to 
be formed in small explosive bursts at the bottom, and rising 
through the liquid in considerable bubbles, throws it into com¬ 
motion. If, after this, the steam is allowed freely to escape, 
the temperature of the water rises no higher, however great the 
heat of the fire. The water is then said to boil, and the tem¬ 
perature at which it remains permanent is its boiling-point. 
The boiling-point of water is ordinarily 212° ; but every liquid 
lias a point of its own. Thus, sulphuric ether boils at DC 0 ; 
aleohof, at 176°; oil of turpentine, at 810°; sulphuric acid, at 
620°; and mercury, at 602°. The boiling-point of liquids is 
constant, under the same conditions, but is liable to be altered 
by various circumstances. W ater with common salt in it, e.g., 
requires greater heat to make it boil than pure water. The 
nature of the vessel, too, exerts an influence; in a glass vessel, 
the boiling-point of water is a degree or two higher than in one 
of metal, owing to the greater attraction that there is between 
water and glass than between water and a metal. But what 
most affects the boiling point is variation of pressure. It is only 
I when the barometer stands at thirty inches, showing an at¬ 
mospheric pressure of 15 lbs. on the square inch, that the 
boiling-point of water is 212°. When the barometer falls, or 
when part of the pressure is in any other way removed, it 
boils before coming to 212°, and when the pressure is increased, 
the boiling-point rises. Thus, in elevated positions, where 
there is less air above the liquid to press on its surface, the 
boiling-point is lower than at the level of the sea. An elevation 
of 510 feet above the sea-level, makes a diminution of a degree ; 
at higher levels, the difference of elevation corresponding to a 
degree of temperature in tho boiling-point incroases; but the 
