257 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, July 24, 1860. 
words, this tribe will stand uninjured more extremes of heat and 
cold, of dry and moist air, and dryness and moisture at the roots, 
than the Erica will do. 
One advantage of the whole Epacris group is, that whether 
what is called species, or beautiful garden florist-raised varieties, 
the most of them bloom in the spring, and if treated for the pur- 
pose might just as easily be made to bloom in winter. Many of 
them without anything like extra attention will begin to open 
their blooms after Christmas, if the average night temperature is 
seldom below 45°. 
As pruning is the first point mentioned by our correspondent, 
we will first direct our attention to that, and describe two different 
modes of treatment according to the circumstances and tastes of 
two different classes of amateurs. The first having reference to 
those who have a forcing-bed, or pit, or plant-stove, or a forcing- 
house—say a vinery or a Peach-house at work, or can make one 
end of their greenhouse closer and warmer for a time than the 
rest of it; and the second, applying more to those who have 
merely a miniature greenhouse, the temperature and atmospheric 
condition of which can hardly be otherwise than uniform all over, 
and perhaps a small turf pit to assist in keeping that greenhouse 
gay and in good order. Taste may also somewhat determine 
the matter ; as, in the first case, it will be possible to have long 
shoots from twelve inches to thirty inches in length covered with 
bloom from end to end, and in the others, to have dense bushes 
covered with bloom, but chiefly from shoots a few inches long. 
Our mode of pruning them will constitute the basis for our 
general management. 
Now, as to the first supposed conditions. We will conclude 
that the plants have finished blooming, and are in four or six-inch 
pots, as they were obtained in autumn or spring from the nursery. 
Each plant, therefore, would have, most likely, a number of 
shoots; and the quickest and best way to get rid of all the decayed 
blossoms and incipent seed-vessels, is to prune back all these 
shoots within two or three inches of their base. To make some¬ 
thing of a symmetrical plant on this system, the centre shoot or 
shoots might be left nine inches long or more, another ring half 
as long, and the next, cut in to an inch or so. This plan will 
give the plant something of a pyramidal appearance afterwards; 
and when once thus established, each set of shoots may be cut 
back every year when done blooming, much as you would cut a 
Willow stool, leaving only a bud or two to each shoot. When 
plants are very young, and in small pots, it is as well not to cut 
back too close ; and when the plants get old, it is also injudicious 
to cut back into older wood than that made the previous summer. 
On this plan, therefore, either a Willow stool, or a Vine on the 
spur-pruning system, will furnish examples as to pruning the 
Epacris; only keeping in mind, that it is on the wood springing 
from such spurs, longer or shorter, and well ripened before winter, 
that the bloom-buds are to appear and open the following spring. 
When the plants are thus pruned, the plants like a little rest. 
Allow them, therefore, to remain in an airy, shady part of the 
greenhouse for a week or so, and give but little water, as the 
evaporating surface will be mostly removed. A slight dewing 
from a syringe frequently over the top of the plant will be more 
serviceable than deluging at the roots. Hardy as the plants are, 
I have known them depart in dudgeon when under such circum¬ 
stances the soil was waterlogged from too heavy and often re¬ 
peated applications from the water-can. 
The next thing, if possible, is to remove the plants to a forcing- 
pit or house—say to a temperature of 60° to 65° in May and 
June, or earlier if wanted early, and to give them a rather close, 
moist atmosphere. After this the roots must not get dry, but 
neither must they be saturated. The gentle sprinklings of the 
top frequently from the syringe will causo the young shoots to 
push vigorously from what was left of last season’s growth; and 
if these are more numerous than can find room for growing, it is 
advisable to thin them a little when from one to two inches in 
length. *When a little more than the last length is the best time for 
Potting , if the plants require it. At any rate the drainage 
should be examined and fresh surfacings be given to the pot. At 
first wo would recommend rather small shiftings—that is to say, 
after the fibres on the outside of the ball have been gently dis¬ 
entangled, and a little of the lower drainage removed, from half 
an inch to an inch space all round will bo quite sufficient. We 
are now saying nothing about the large-shift system, as, on the 
whole, that requires extra attention, especially in watering. 
The soil required should be mostly good heath soil, rather rough 
for the size of the shift, with a portion of silver sand, and some 
little bits of charcoal, and broken pots, to keep the soil a little 
open and allow the water free access to the drainage, which must 
be extra well attended to. I have supposed that no plant is re¬ 
potted in which care has not been taken previously to see that 
the ball was moist to the very centre ; as, otherwise, in repeated 
waterings the moisture would be apt to escape by the sides of 
the pot, and leave the mass of roots in the centre as dry as a well- 
burnt brick—one fruitful cause of consigning many a plant to 
the rubbish-heap that otherwise might have flourished for years. 
When the plants are large and old, a little fibry loam added helps 
to keep them strong and robust. 
When this repotting is done, the plants should be replaced in 
the same genial growing atmosphere, waterings given whenever 
the plants require it, aud frequent dewings overhead administered 
from the syringe, and a powerful sun deadened until the shoots 
are progressing freely in length. Then the plants should still 
have the stimulants to growth referred to; but, at the same time, 
be placed in more open spaces, so as to enjoy the beams of the 
sun unshaded. According to the time when the plants received 
this treatment, by July or August, the plants may be removed to 
a cold pit, on which the glass may be kept at first fer a week or 
ten days, just giving the plants enough air to prevent them 
getting overheated and drawn ; and then just take off the lights 
for some hours in the morning aud evening; and then take them 
olT altogether in a week or so, except when there is a likelihood 
of heavy rains. At this stage the plants will stand and delight 
in the brightest sun ; but the roots will be apt to be injured if 
the pots were fully exposed. But for this, the plants in August 
and September would be as well in an open place out of doors 
as a cold pit. The latter helps to shelter the pots. 
It will be seen that by the above method, the object is to obtain 
long shoots, stimulated at first into growth, and then exposed to 
the sun to consolidate and ripen the growth, in order that, the long 
shoots may be clustered from end to end with flower-buds. The 
plants should be housed by the middle of October. When growing 
freely, a little weak, cool manure water will ,be of advantage ; at 
other times I prefer it to be clear, pure, and soft. After housing, 
the plants may range in temperature, and with plenty of fresh 
air, from 35° to 45°. When kept a little higher the flower-buds 
will swell quickly. Some ladies are very fond of such long shoots, 
all bloom, for making bows and wreaths. Where the conveniences 
exist, this is, on the whole, the easiest plan for growing these 
plants well, and the methdd is so simple as not to confuse by 
intricacy. Its success depends greatly on being able to assist 
growth after pruning with something like a tropical climate. I 
have managed that in hot summers, with a common glass frame, 
by giving little air, shade when necessary, and a moist atmosphere 
until we considered it was time to harden the shoots. In such 
cases the sun acts as the heating medium in a hothouse. 
The main features in the second mode are similar, but attended 
with less trouble as to giving the plants suitable positions dining 
the season. In this case it is best to give the plants a bush form. 
Instead, therefore, of cutting back the young shoots that you 
received on the plant you had from the nursery, when done 
flowering it is best merely to nip off part of their points, and then 
tie out these shoots—some merely on a level with the rim of the 
pot, and others in intermediate positions between that and the 
central perpendicular one. After resting a few days, and syringing 
the stem and head, keep the plant in as close a place, aud a little 
shady, as you can manage in your little house without interfering 
with the necessary management to other inmates in a flowering 
condition. When the fresh shoots start, the general management 
will be similar to the first case; only, if you are not able, by 
shutting in the sun’s heat, to make a cold frame or pit into a 
hothouse, with few exceptions the growth of your young shoots 
will be short, though there will be plenty of them. These, though 
short, will require ripeniug, as well as their more lengthy rivals : 
and therefore, by the end of July, or the beginning of August at 
farthest, the plants must either stand in an open sunny place in 
the greenhouse, or be placed out of doors in a turf-pit, or where 
the pots may be sheltered from the blaze of an autumn sun. If 
the plants are kept in the greenhouse, to prevent the pot getting 
too hot for the fine hairlike fibre roots close to its sides, it is a 
good plan to put the pot inside a larger one, and stuff a little 
moss in the opening between them at the top. By this mode, 
when the plants are fully established, very little pruning will be 
required every year, farther than just nipping back the shoots a 
little, and getting rid of the old decayed flower-buds. Thus 
treated, aud weak cow-manure water given when the plants were 
growing, and a few similar doses when they were blooming, wo 
have seen nice stubby specimens kept in six and eight-inch pots 
