328 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLENAN, August 28, 1860. 
Coronilla glauca will be a blaze of yellow, if it were pruned 
and set a-growing in the beginning of summer. Whenever the 
flower-buds show it drinks like a fish. Keep it a little dryish in 
November. 
Cytisus. — Attleana, racemosus, and others require starting into 
growth early, keeping dryish in October, and giving a heat 
averaging 50° in November, to have them in bloom generally at 
Christmas or the new year. They will come in quite naturally by 
the end of January in a house averaging 45° at night. 
JEricas .—The kinds mentioned will come in without any extra 
care, except keeping them airy, but not in a draught. Those 
who can air a living-room and not make draughts will know what 
is meant. Many plants that delight in fresh and even moving 
air will not survive cold draughts. 
Lobelias .—I have mentioned having often felt and seen their 
good effects when grown in small pots, and allowed to hang 
from the shelf or stage. The erinus, or the old speciosa, and 
the old begonicefolia, which I wish to get hold of again, having 
lost it, are useful for this purpose, and also for suspending from 
baskets. 
Carnations, Perpetual, do best when planted out in May, all 
flowers removed, taken up carefully at the end of September and 
potted, kept shaded for a fortnight in hot sun, and then removed 
to the greenhouse, where they will bloom all the winter if the 
night temperature averages 45°. 
Linum monogynum —pruned back in spring, repotted when the 
young shoots had started, grown in a cold pit in summer, exposed 
to sun and air in August and September, and housed in October 
and watered sparingly—will, in December and January, be covered 
with its yellow flowers. 
Jasminum nudiflorum .—Nice small plants of these may be 
obtained from cuttings or layers in summer, and without any 
care. If the young shoots had been exposed to sun and air they 
would be covered with yellow flowers all winter. It is a pity 
that they are not sweet-scented as well as bright-coloured. 
Primula sinensis, to be in full bloom thus early, should have 
been sown in a little heat by April, pricked off in heat, and 
potted and repotted, and kept at the back of a wall or fence in 
the summer months. A four-inch pot will grow a nice plant. 
It is best not to have large pots for this early flowering. House 
by October, and give an airy place. 
Violets do best when divided or struck from cuttings in spring, 
planted out in a bed in summer, well watered and syringed to 
keep red spider at a distance, and repotted in rich loam at the 
beginning of September. These will generally bloom nicely in 
the winter months. 
Shrubs arc most successfully forced when the plants, from 
being early potted, are full of roots, and the pots are subjected 
to a mild increase of temperature by bottom heat, whilst the top 
beat is kept comparatively cool. When we did much in this 
way, we used to make a slight rough hotbed out of doors, and 
in that we used to plunge the pots at the end of October, leaving 
the tops all exposed ; and then towards the middle and end of 
November removed them to the forcing-house or pit. Provided 
the bottom heat was moderate, from 70° to 75°, all plants of 
such kinds do better when the pots are partly plunged, than 
when they are exposed on a platform or stage. 
China Roses will come into bloom in a warm conservatory 
without any forcing. 
Music is very easily excited in any place where there is heat; 
and roots may be taken up out of the garden and crammed into 
the pot at once. 
In lifting Lily of the Valley, adopt our friend Mr. Eraser’s 
plan. No one can be more successful. He fingers each bud, 
and by its firmness knows whether it has flowers or not. He 
packs, perhaps, a dozen roots of these in a six-inch pot, and 
the result is everything that could be wished. A little bottom 
beat is useful for such early work. Get some potted by the be¬ 
ginning of November, or as soon as the leaves begin to decay. 
I have seen so much good window gardening of late years, 
that I must, ere long, call upon some of our friends to pay' back 
any advantage they have received from us, by giving us some 
lessons from their experience in return. To the uninitiated I 
would say, that the chief things to be thought of are freedom 
from frost, water just according to the needs of the plants—once 
a-week or once a-month, just as they require it; extreme clean¬ 
liness by washing the leaves and keeping all dust and filth from 
resting on them and the stem, and by damping the foliage and 
other means neutralising the warm, heated, and dried air of the 
sitting-room. R. Eish. 
CLUB-ROOT AND ITS CURE. 
Can your inform me of a remedy for clubbing at the roots in 
Broccoli and Cauliflower ? Our ground is strong and hot with- 
some loam. We have tried several remedies, but cannot succeed 
in growing any but small, dwindling things.—C. Goding. 
[Clubbing is caused by the perforations made in the stems and 
roots by a small weevil, called by some entomologists Ceuto- 
rhyneus sulcicollis, and by others Cureulio pleurostigma. In those 
perforations the weevil deposits her eggs ; and the larva;, or grubs, 
when hatched feed on the inner bark of the plant, and by their 
woundings cause those knobs, or galls, called ambury or club- 
root. Charcoal-dust, spread about lialf-an-inch deep upon the 
surface, and just mixed with it by the point of a spade, it is said, 
prevents the occurrence of this disease. Soot, we have reason to 
believe, from a slight experience, is as effectual as charcoal-dust. 
Judging from theoretical reasons, we might conclude that it 
would be more specifical; for, in addition to its being, like char¬ 
coal, finely divided carbon, it contains sulphur, to which insects 
also have an antipathy. A slight dressing of the surface-soil 
with a little of the dry hydro-sulphuret of lime from the gas¬ 
works would prevent the occurrence of the disease, by driving 
the weevils from the soil. It would, probably, as effectually 
banish the Turnip-fly or beetle, if sprinkled over the surface im¬ 
mediately after the seed is sown. For Cabbages, twelve bushels- j 
per acre would not, probably, be too much, spread upon the 
surface, and turned in with the spade or last ploughing. To- 
effect the banishment of the Turnip-beetle, we should like a trial 
to be made of six or eight bushels spread over the surface im¬ 
mediately after the sowing and rolling are finished. Although 
we specify these quantities as those we calculate most correct,, 
yet iu all experiments it is best to try various proportions. Three 
or four bushels may be found sufficient; perhaps twelve, or even 
twenty, may not be too much. In Cabbages, the ambury may 
usually be avoided by frequent transplantings ; for this enables 
the workman to remove the excrescences upon their first appear¬ 
ance, and renders the plants altogether more robust and ligneous ; 
the plant iu its tender, sappy stage of growth being most open 
to the insect’s attacks. We believe that club-root rarely occurs 
upon rich soil; and believe that a plentiful supply of house 
sewage or other liquid manure abounding in ammonia, both to 
the seed-bed and plants when finally bedded out, would banish 
this disease; for the parent insect cannot endure the fumes of 
ammonia, and the vigorous growth secured to the plants speedily 
removes them out of danger.] 
ELDERBERRY CATSUP. 
On every pint of ripe Elderberries stripped from the stalks 
pour a pint of boiling vinegar, and let it stand in a cool oven all 
night. Strain without pressing, and boil the liquor five minutes 
with half a tea-spoonful of salt. To every quart put half a pound 
of anchovies, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of whole 
pepper, half an ounce of ginger, twelve cloves, and four eschallots. 
Bottle when cold with the spices.—F. A. D. 
[We insert the above recipe on the special recommendation of 
a well-palated correspondent, who assures us that it is a most 
praiseworthy composition, and employable for the same purposes 
as Mushroom Catsup.—E ds.] 
WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON THE SEASHORE. 
(Continued from page 288.) 
CHAP. V.—ECHINODERMATA. 
The class Echinodermata completes the order called Radiata, 
and the members of it have received their name from two Greek i 
words which signify “ Sea Hedgehog ” and “Skin;” the spines 
peculiar to these creatures having suggested a partial resemblance 
to the bristles of a hedgehog. It seems, indeed, somewhat- 
irreconcilable with a proper classification to include these cal¬ 
careous, hard-skinned animals among the soft, gelatinous creatures 
forming the other members of the family of the Radiata which we 
have previously had under notice. Still, as all our zoologists 
have decided on referring them to that order, we are not at 
liberty to do otherwise than follow r their example. 
Echinodermata may then be generally described as a class of 
the Radiata, comprising aquatic invertebrate animals, which have 
the surface of their skin usually covered with calcareous spines. 
