387 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER AND COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, September 25, 1860. 
menoed their second swelling. If the roots are allowed to run ; 
through the pots into the bed, and that bed averages about 70° 1 
when the fruit is perfecting itself, it will most likely be all the better 
for it. The general treatment otherwise is the same as for other 
Vines. To great attention, rich surface dressings, and weak, varied 
manure waterings, the success is chiefly due. When heavy crops 
are taken the old plants are of little more use taking more trouble 
to renew them than to grow young ones as specified above. 
It will be observed, that in the first stages the little plants take 
little room. When once fairly started, the house and bed that 
would do for fruiting plants, would also do for bringing on the 
young ones. 
As to growing Pines and Tines together, “ A. Z.” will find an 
article lately that will meet his case. The pinery will do for 
growing his Tines ; but if he intends fruiting them in an orchard- 
house, it will be time enough to put them there when Peaches 
would be coming into bloom—say March or April. All that we 
have said of preparing his plants will apply only in his case. 
There will be no necessity for resting them early in autumn, as 
they will have their natural rest in winter before they are excited 
in a common orchard-house. R. Fish. 
HABDY OBCHIDEOUS PLANTS. 
(Continued from 'page 371.) 
Propagation.— By Seed.— In order to succeed in raising 
plants from seed, proper soils for each species should be used. 
Fill shallow pans with the soil, and then cover it with a thin 
layer of moss. On it scatter the seed, and sprinkle sufficient fine 
sifted moss to cover it; then place the pans in a cold frame, and 
protect from heavy rains. Gentle showers will do no harm, and 
if they do not fall imitate them by watering the seed-pans with 
the finest rose w atering-pot. If the seed ripens as early as June 
it should be sown immediately ; but if it is perfected later, 
gather it and sow it in March following. The seedlings should 
remain in the pans for a year or two, till they are strong enough 
to be transplanted either into pots or into a prepared bed such 
as I have described. This transplanting should be done just 
before the growing season commences. Treat the seedlings after¬ 
wards in the same way as the old-established plants. In two or 
three years they will flow er. 
By Division. —At the time of repotting or transplanting ex¬ 
amine the tuberous-rooted kinds; and if any offsets are on them 
take them carefully off and put them into small pots, repotting 
annually till they flower. Fibrous-rooted species should be 
divided carefully, and the divisions potted, and the same culture 
given to them as the young tuberous-rooted plants. The only 
essential point to attend to in order to succeed in propagating 
these plants is to put each species in the right kind of soil from 
their infancy, whether raised from seeds or from division. 
Diseases. —The only disease that I know of that attacks hardy 
Orchids is a kind of dry rot. The same disease is found in the 
solid bulbs of the Tulip and the Crocus, and it is equally fatal in 
all: there is no remedy for it. If the leaves stop growing the 
disease has begun. Pull up the plants attacked with it and 
expel them from the premises. I do not know that it is con¬ 
tagious, but I would rather be without such dangerous subjects. 
Insects. —The most noxious are the red spider, grubs, slugs, 
and worms. The first thrives best in hot dry weather : therefore 
the opposite is preventive. If they are found on the leaves of 
the plants and such are in pots, lay the pots on one side and 
give the leaves a very severe syringing, which will wash off the 
insects, webs, eggs, and all, and effectually relieve the plants. 
To prevent their return dust the leaves with flowers of sulphur. 
Grubs in new soils are often rather numerous, and they feed 
on the young stems just beneath the surface of the soil. There 
they must be sought for, and, when found, destroyed. 
Slugs may be traced by the slime they leave to their retreats, 
and extracted from thence and put to death. Lime water is 
certain death to them if their concealment cannot be found. 
Worms do not feed upon the plants, but they disarrange the 
soil, and render it unfit for food for the plants. Lime water, 
again, is the agent that will destroy these intruders. The best 
time to apply it is in mild dewy evenings, so congenial to the 
migrations of slugs and worms. All these insects must be con¬ 
stantly warred with to prevent them injuring the leaves of the 
’ants; for if the leaves are not kept healthy, and thus able to 
rform their proper functions, the plants will soon fade away 
d perish. 
It now only remains'to me to complete my essay on Hardy 
Orchids to give a list of them ; and I shall group them under th» 
different soils that each group requires to grow them in. 
Aeeras anthropophora 
bearing) 
Herminium monorchis (one- 
bulbed) 
Orchis fusca (brown) 
hircina (goat) 
Smithii (Smith’s) 
simia (ape) 
tephrosanthos (ash- 
coloured-leaved) 
Ophrys arachnoidea (cobweb) 
CHALKY SOIL. 
(man- Ophrys aranifera (spider-bear¬ 
ing) 
ciliata (fringed) 
cornuta (horned) 
exaltata (lofty) 
fucifera (drone-bee-bear¬ 
ing) 
grandiflora (large-flow¬ 
ering) 
muscifera (fly-bearing) 
tabanifera (dun-fly-bearing) 
TURFY LOAM. 
Gymnadenia albida (whitish) 
conopsea (gnat¬ 
bearing) 
viridis (green) 
Listera cordata (heart-leaved) 
Neottia nidus-avis (birds’-nest) 
spiralis (ladies’ traces) 
Orchis latifolia (broad-leaved) 
morio (buffoon) 
ustulata (scorched) 
CHALKY LOAM AND SANDY PEAT. 
Anacamptis pyramidalis (pyra- Orchis acuminata 
midal) pointed) 
(sharp- 
Epipactus latifolia (broad-leaved) 
palustris (marsh) 
Gymnadenia conopsea alba 
(white gnat) 
cucullata (hooded) 
odoratissima (most 
fragrant) 
Habenaria hyperborea (northern) 
bracteata (bracted) 
Neottia cernua (drooping) 
JNigritella angustifolia (narrow¬ 
leaved) 
globosa (globose) 
longicornis (long-horned 
militaris (military) 
papilionacea (butterfly¬ 
winged) 
sulphurea (sulphur-cO- 
coloured) 
undulata (waved) 
Platantbera bifolia (two-flow¬ 
ered) 
Pogonia divaricata (straggling) 
pendula (drooping) 
TURFY LOAM, SANDY PEAT, AND LEAF MOULD. 
Calypso borealis (northern) Orchis ciliata (fringed) 
americana (American) 
Corallorrhiza innata (inborn) 
multiflora (many- 
flowered) 
odontorhiza (tooth- 
rooted) 
Cypripedium spectabile (showy) 
spectabila album 
(white-flowered) 
spectabile incarna- 
tum (flesh-coloured) 
Liparis liliifolia (Lily-leaved) 
Habenaria ciliata (fringed) 
cristata (crested) 
fimbriata (fringed) 
lacera (torn) 
orbiculata (orbiculate) 
psychodes (cold) 
spectabilis (showy) 
Neottia aestivalis (summer) 
autumnalis (autumnal) 
Ophrys apifera (bee-bearing) 
coriopliora (bug-bearing) 
Cyrillii (Cyrill’s) 
globosa (globose) 
latifolia alba (broad¬ 
leaved white) 
laxiflora (loose-flower¬ 
ing) 
maculata (spotted) 
mascula (male) 
Nieodemi (Nicodemus’s) 
palustris (marsh) 
parviflora (small-flow¬ 
ered) 
provincialis (province) 
quadripunctata (four- 
spotted) 
Rivenii (Riven’s) 
saccata (pouched) 
sambucina (Elder- 
scented) 
undulata (waved-leaved) 
variegata (striped) 
SANDY FIBRY PEAT. 
Cypripedium aeaule (stemless) 
arietinum (rams-head- 
formed) 
calceolus (ladies’ slipper) 
candidum (white-flow¬ 
ered) 
guttatum (spotted) 
macranthum (largest) 
Cypripedium parviflorum 
(small-flowered) 
pubescens (downy) 
purpuratum (purple) 
ventricosum (bellied) 
Habenaria blephariglottis (eye* 
lash-toiagued) 
TURFY BOGGY PEAT. 
Cephalanthera ensifolia (sword- Liparis Correana (Correa’s) 
leaved) Listera cordata (heart-leaved) 
rubra (red-flow- ovata (ovate-leaved) 
ered) Malaxis ophioglossoides (Ophi- 
Liparis Lsesellii (Lsesell’s) oglossis-like) 
T. Appleby. 
