THE DRAWBACKS OF CIVILIZATION 
we approached the dock. That sound was welcome to 
me in a way, and at the same time worrying, after the 
dead silence I had been accustomed to for the last many 
months. 
A swarm of robber-porters invaded the steamer the 
moment we came alongside the pier. The bustle, the loud 
shouting, the pushing, seemed most irritating. Ill as I 
was, for a few moments I almost contemplated the idea 
of turning back toward the virgin forest. The heat was 
oppressive, the bells of the tramways jangled all the time, 
the rattle of the mediaeval carriages on the cobble-stones 
of the pavement was distressing. 
Things were not pleasanter when I put up in the best 
hotel, where the best room I could get was not unlike a 
coal-cellar. We will not speak of the food. 
Those aspiring efforts at semi-civilization were to my 
mind ten times worse than no civilization at all. Had it 
not been for the extreme kindness of my friend Com- 
mandante Macedo, of Mr. Ross, the manager of the 
London and Brazilian Bank, and of the British Consul, 
I would have left the place that same day. 
At Belem I dismissed Alcides, Antonio, and white 
Filippe, paying their full passage by sea and railway 
and full wages up to the day of their arrival at their 
respective homes. They had certainly many faults, and 
had not behaved well to me; but I am given to weigh 
matters justly, and there was no doubt that those men 
had endured terrific hardships and, willingly or unwill¬ 
ingly, had carried through quite a herculean task. I 
therefore not only paid them the high wages upon which 
I had agreed, but I gave each a handsome present of 
money. 
The three men duly signed receipts and unsolicited 
certificates, in which they declared that during the entire 
journey they had been treated by me in a generous 
manner and with every possible thoughtfulness and 
consideration. 
Vol. II.—22 
387 
