ACROSS UNKNOWN SOUTH AMERICA 
cascade of water, a regular Niagara, on the flames — as 
well as on the spectators, I presume. After it had been 
built it was discovered that if water were let into the tank, 
its weight would be enough to bring down the entire upper 
part of the theatre; so that it could never be filled at all. 
Except for one or two short avenues, which reminded 
one of the suburbs of new North American cities, there was 
nothing worth seeing in Manaos. The shops were almost 
entirely those of jewellers, gunsmiths, sweet-sellers, and 
chemists. It was in this place that the poor seringueiros, 
on their return from rubber collecting, were in a few hours 
robbed of all the money they had made during several 
months’ hard work. There was only one redeeming fea¬ 
ture in Manaos: the British and American business men 
in the place were most charming and hospitable in every 
possible way. 
It was on December 3, 1911, that everything was 
ready. The hour of departure had been fixed for ten 
o’clock in the evening. I went on board at the appointed 
time, but the captain of the launch and the crew refused to 
put out of the anchorage, as they said they would not go 
unless some extra men were employed. One of the pipes 
of the engine had been wilfully damaged, so that delay 
was caused, and we could not possibly start until it had 
been repaired. The captain of the launch had worried 
me for several days. He was in a constant state of 
intoxication. 
On December fourth, at eleven p.m., I was actually 
able to make my departure from Manaos on the launch 
Amazonas. I took in tow a rowing-boat which had been 
lent me by the representative of the Minister of Agricul¬ 
ture in Manaos. 
By 8.30 in the morning of December fifth we entered 
the mouth of the Madeira River. I was surprised at the 
sudden change in the appearance of the two rivers. We 
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