ACROSS UNKNOWN SOUTH AMERICA 
would make the lift start from the ground floor? No, 
indeed. The lift only starts from the second floor up — 
and, if I remember rightly, you have to walk some 
thirty-eight steps up a grand staircase before you reach 
it! Do you know why? Because the architect wished to 
compel all visitors to the building to admire a window of 
gaudy coloured glass half-way up the staircase. Thus 
Brazilians reason about nearly everything. They have 
not yet mastered the importance and due proportion of 
detail. Frequently what is to us a trifling detail is placed 
by them in the forefront as the most important point. 
Thanks to the strong credentials I carried — among 
which were letters from H. E. Regis de Oliveira, Brazilian 
Minister in London — I was received in Rio de Janeiro 
with the utmost consideration and kindness. From the 
President of the Republic to the humblest citizens, all, 
with no exception, treated me with charming civility. My 
stay in Rio was a delightful one. The Brazilians of the 
principal cities were most courteous and accomplished, 
and it was a great pleasure to associate with them. In¬ 
tense interest was shown by the Government of the 
country and by the people in my plan to cross the 
continent. Dr. Pedro de Toledo, the Minister of Agri¬ 
culture, was specially interested in the scheme, and it was 
at first suggested that the expedition should be an 
Anglo-Brazilian one, and that I should be accompanied 
by Brazilian officers and soldiers. Colonel Rondon, a 
well-known and brave officer, was ordered by the 
Government to find suitable volunteers in the army to 
accompany my expedition. After a long delay, Colonel 
Rondon informed me that his search had been unsuccess¬ 
ful. Colonel Rondon said he would have gladly accom¬ 
panied the expedition himself, had he not been detained 
in Rio by his duties as Chief of the Bureau for the Pro¬ 
tection and Civilization of the Indians. Another officer 
offered his services in a private capacity, but as he became 
10 
