A CHALLENGE 
baggage, pretending to pay no attention whatever to the 
absurd oratory. To this day I cannot yet grasp what 
the oppression of Europe had to do with my wanting to 
pay for something I had never had. I then repeated my 
offer, which was again refused. With the protection of 
his strong rear-guard the Chief of Police advanced bravely 
towards me, holding in a suggestive manner with his right 
hand the pommel of his revolver in the back pocket of his 
trousers. In a tragic manner he exclaimed: 
“ We will settle this matter to-morrow.” 
44 We will settle it at once,” I placidly replied. 
44 No, to-morrow,” he repeated, with a vicious look. 
44 Very good: at what time and where? ” 
44 At ten o’clock,” he eventually grunted, after I had 
repeated the above question four times. 
I also politely invited all the others present to come 
forward if they had any claims to square. I was quite 
ready to settle anybody at any time and anywhere. 
Perhaps they might get more than they wished. 
I departed with my baggage laden on two carriages 
and a cart, and eventually found accommodation at an 
equally filthy hotel near the station, only the latter place 
was kept by a humble and honest, decrepit old woman. 
I do not know that X have ever spent a more miserable 
evening anywhere. I do not mind roughing it in the 
roughest way possible, but I have always detested pre¬ 
tentious efforts at civilization of an inferior kind. Thus 
I sat before a meal of eggs, beans, and rice, all soaked in 
toucinho (pork fat), which I detest and loathe. I 
watched black railway workmen and porters stuffing 
themselves with food in a most unappetizing way, and 
making disgusting noises of all kinds. 
Fortunately I remembered that a friend of mine, a 
railway contractor, Mr. Louis Schnoor, must be at that 
time in Araguary, looking after the construction of the 
new railway line which will eventually join Araguary to 
vol. i. — 4 49 
