98 
MADAGASCAR. 
of water resembles very much the glades and 
shady nooks of an English park, and in passing 
along beneath the ample foliage and through the 
sequestered bits of forest, it is difficult at times not 
to imagine one’s self in Devonshire or the Chats- 
worth district. In journeying down south along 
these lakes it is always necessary to make careful 
and even elaborate provision for food and shelter 
en route , before commenciug the journey. The 
villages are few and scattered, and the supplies 
to be obtained in them scarce or inferior, and 
one or two days are generally occupied before 
starting in engaging bearers, repacking baggage, 
storing canteens, and looking to the cords of 
hammocks, and the supplies of light, salt, and 
flour,—three indispensable requisites for a Mala¬ 
gasy tour. These preliminary and necessary 
arrangements have to be made at Tamatave, 
and present no features calling for special re¬ 
mark, if we except the all-important and most 
perplexing item of choosing your bearers. In 
this matter there is often a sharp, and, to the 
onlookers, amusing contest between native wit 
and European obstinacy. The traveller offers 
a sum per day per man, which is probably 
quite fair and reasonable enough, and may 
even in some cases be considerably in advance 
of the usual Icarama, or wages; but from sheer 
love of bargaining and debate, the offer is at 
