ROSES 
Roses, with the exception of the Rose Species described on pages 42 and 43, are almost 
entirely used as decorative plants. Broadly speaking, they have no certain positive year- 
round form, which precludes their use as Structural Plants. For best gardening effects, 
Roses must be considered as Decorative only. The Climbing Roses, quite naturally, are 
made to run on trellises, arbors, archways, and pergolas; in fact, in any way in which most 
vines would be used. 
The others—the Bush Roses—need rather specialized care, different from the needs of 
most other classes of plants, and had best be planted in separate beds rather than mingled 
with other plants. 
A few sorts—the Polyantha Roses—make beautiful small hedges which can be used to 
surround the Rose- or other flower-beds. 
Roses want a medium-rich soil and plenty of moisture, although they cannot endure a 
heavy, wet, soggy soil. Very rich soils, usually advised, will make large, soft plants and 
large, soft flowers; the latter will be poor keepers and the former will winterkill badly. 
The Rose is a tenderish plant at best, so give it a fair chance; don’t overfeed it. The best 
fertilizer for Roses is old, well-decayed manure, or chopped leafmold; scratch some of it 
into the topsoil, leaving the rest of it on the surface as a mulch. Phosphate is beneficial to 
quality of plant and bloom, and in very acid soils the Basic Slag Phosphate is the preferable 
type. Peat Moss is highly^ acid and, therefore, not to be recommended for Roses. 
Roses should be protected during winter by mounding extra earth in late fall as high as 
8 to 10 inches up on the stems, and further covering with dead leaves. These may be held 
in place by laying boughs or boards on them. 
In our hot, dry New England summers, Roses do best in partial or even full shade— 
orthodox advice to the contrary notwithstanding. 
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