Brief Hints on the Culture of Roses 
ARRIVAL OF PACKAGE.—Immediately the package containing the trees arrives, it should be taken 
to a shed or sheltered place where drying winds cannot penetrate, to be carefully unpacked. The plants should 
be taken from the bundle and the roots and the tops thoroughly sprinkled with water, after which they may 
be covered with a sack or mat until they are planted. Should the weather be wet and the soil unfit to receive 
them, it is best to open a trench, lay the plants in thickly, covering the roots well with soil until the weather is 
fine and the soil sufficiently dry to tread upon. 
SITUATION.—A place apart from the other flowers should be assigned to them, if possible sheltered 
from high winds, but open and not surrounded by trees, as closeness is very apt to generate mildew. Where 
they cannot have a place to themselves, any part of the garden best fulfilling these conditions will answer. 
SOIL.—A most important item in their successful culture. That which they specially delight in is a rich 
loam that feels greasy when pressed between the fingers. Where this is not to be had, the soil must be improved, 
if light, by the addition of stiff loam, well worked in; where heavy, good drainage is the most essential requisite 
to success. Well trench all the ground proposed to be planted and add decayed manure 18 inches deep. 
PLANTING.—This should be done during the latter end of October, November, or early in December, 
but may be safely continued until March. If a bed of dwarf roses is required, it is necessary that the soil should 
be dug 18 inches deep, mixing in plenty of manure with it. If standards they should be planted about 2 ft. 6 ins. 
apart and will require to be securely staked to prevent the winds from moving them. If planted with dwarfs, 
2 ft. apart is the correct distance for most sorts. Great care must be taken to avoid deep planting. In the case 
of dwarf roses, place the union of the stock with the bud one inch below the soil. Each root should be laid out 
very carefully, taking care that two roots do not cross each other or coil round. This is very important, for the 
well-being of the plants. The roots of standard roses require similar treatment and must be placed about 5 
inches below the surface. Do not put the manure on the bare roots but first place some fine mould over them, 
after which manure may be laid on, filling in with the remaining soil. Tread firmly and spread some coarse 
litter on the surface round the plant as a protection from frost. Standards should be staked and any very long 
shoots on the dwarf or bush plants shortened. 
PROTECTION FROM FROST.—Dwarf plants are easily protected during severe weather by drawing 
the soil over the crowns, or by placing straw loosely over them. In the case of standards a covering of straw 
or bracken may be tied round the heads. 
PRUNING.—This may be done any time after the beginning of March, according to the season. Cut 
out all wood over two years old and all weakly shoots. Weak growing kinds should be pruned hard, i.e., down 
to three or four eyes. Stronger growing plants may be left longer. Cut to an eye that points outwards, so as to 
keep the inside of the plant open. This applies to Hybrid Perpetuals and Teas. Climbing and Pillar varieties 
require less cutting back—the tips should be shortened and weak shoots cut out. Teas should not be pruned 
until April. On no account have it done during severe frosts. If grown for garden decoration plants must not 
be pruned so severely as those required for exhibition blooms. 
MANURING.—Roses are strong feeders and will take almost any quantity of manure, cow manure is the 
best, stable manure well rotted, if available, is good. Exhibitors generally apply a top-dressing in spring, but 
it does not improve the appearance of the beds; it is a good plan to place dung on the beds in winter, to be dug 
in in the spring. After pruning give a dressing of our Special Rose Manure once a week during May and June 
(see inside back cover). 
WATERING.—If the spring and summer be dry, watering will be necessary, which should be given 
liberally once a week in the open and twice for plants on walls. Growers for exhibition should prepare some 
liquid manure and apply once a week to establish plants with a watering of plain water in between if dry 
weather prevails. Syringing in the evening is beneficial; use water which has been exposed to the action 
of the air. 
INSECTS are very troublesome to the rose-grower and great care and precautions are necessary to prevent 
their ravages. In spring, as soon as the plants begin to grow, we find the young leaves curl and stick together. 
These should be unfolded, where will be found a small maggot which feeds on the young leaves, and would, if 
not destroyed, eventually eat the bud and spoil the flower. After this the green fly will appear. The best 
remedy for this and for all other diseases is our Special “ Insecticide ” (see inside back cover). 
