CLIMBING LOS ANGELES 
Mermaid. This rose is more of a trailer 
than a climber. Flowers are very large, 
single, creamy-yellow, with large tuft 
of showy golden-yellow stamens. Con¬ 
stantly in bloom from May to Decem¬ 
ber. An excellent bank cover. Prune 
lightly or not at all. Remarkably dis¬ 
ease resistant. 75c. 
Mme. Gregoire Staechelin. Clg. H.T. 
(1927) It is to be regretted that this 
lovely Spanish rose has been given such 
an awkward name but because of its 
unusual beauty it is increasing in popu¬ 
larity despite this handicap. The long- 
pointed buds are carmine, opening to 
show the pearl-pink center. Petals are 
charmingly curled. Blooming season 
follows that of Belle of Portugal and 
the two may be planted near together 
with pleasing results. Flowers are pro¬ 
duced on extra long stems. 50c. 
Marechal Neil. Noisette. Flowers deep 
lemon-yellow, large, full and globular; 
of good form and fragrant. Growth ro¬ 
bust, climbing and free-flowering. This 
grand rose originated over sixty years 
ago and still retains its popularity. Does 
not do best near the coast, as it likes 
heat. 75c. 
Paul’s Scarlet Climber. H.W. This peer¬ 
less climbing rose of the purest vivid 
scarlet color, remaining bright until the 
flowers fall, is in a class by itself. The 
blooms of medium size clothe the plant 
with a blazing mantle in the early sum¬ 
mer months. A tall hedge of this rose 
is a wonderful sight. 50c. 
Scorcher. Clg. H.T. This brilliant Aus¬ 
tralian climber has proved to be very 
fine in California gardens. Flowers are 
large, 4 inches across, semi-double and 
a brilliant crimson-carmine in color. 50c. 
Silver Moon. H. Wich. Long, creamy 
buds followed by beautiful semi-double 
CLIMBING MME. EDOUARD HERRIOT 
flowers four to five inches in diameter 
produced in small sprays. The petals are 
of great substance. Its boundless vigor 
makes it invaluable where quick shade 
is desired. 50c. 
Varieties marked * are of recent in¬ 
troduction. 
HOW TO GROW ROSES 
How to Plant. LTnwrap new plants with care; do not expose 
roots to sun or drying winds. If roots are dry, soak for a 
few hours in water. If the stems also are dry, bury the whole 
plant in moist earth for three or four days to renew life and 
vigor. Our rose bushes are pruned ready for planting before 
being shipped. Plant carefully, slanting the roots down to 
sides of hole. Fill in with surface soil to two inches from 
top of ground, tramp down. In a basin dug around the plant 
pour ten or fifteen gallons of water. Next day fill in with 
loose soil. Set the plants so that the union of bud and root- 
stock is just under leveled surface of the ground. 
The Best Soil. Good heavy loam soil is best for roses al¬ 
though lighter soils may be satisfactorily improved by the 
addition of well rotted manure thoroughly spaded into the 
soil. Never use fresh or unrotted manure where it will come 
in contact with the roots. 
Planting- Distances. Plant strong Hybrid Perpetual roses 
three feet apart, Hybrid Teas and Teas about two and one- 
half feet. Polyantha roses, more dwarf in their habit, may 
be planted closer together. 
Fertilizing Important. Cow-barn manure is the best fertil¬ 
izer. Other manures may be used as a top dressing. Gaviota, 
applied according to directions is the best commercial fer¬ 
tilizer for roses. If a little Gaviota is sprinkled around rose 
bushes and washed in by rain or irrigation when the buds are 
about half grown, there will be a marked improvement in the 
size and color of the blooms. 
Pruning. Never allow roses to go unpruned. Hybrid Perpet- 
uals and others of equally vigorous growth require more 
pruning than Teas and their allied families. 
Prune between December 15 and March 1. The first winter 
after planting, thin to three main shoots and cut these back 
at least one-half. A properly pruned plant should have the 
shape of a deer’s antlers. When the framework branches are 
established, the laterals should be thinned and those allowed 
to remain cut to spurs of about four buds each. All growth 
starting from below the bud union should be removed, as 
this is the wild stock and produces worthless blooms. 
With climbers the framework branches should be trimmed to 
three or four and these trained up against the wall fanwise. 
The first two seasons these should be cut back at least one- 
third. 
Pests. In the early spring, before mildew and blackspot are 
apparent, control them by dusting plants every week or ten 
days with a dust made from nine parts dusting sulphur and 
one part arsenate of lead. In cool climates spraying with 
Volck Oil or a similar oil emulsion used according to the 
manufacturer’s directions will be found effective in con¬ 
trolling mildew. In changing from sulphur to oil sprays or 
vice versa allow an interval of three or four weeks to inter¬ 
vene as a combination of the two control methods may result 
in burned foliage. To control plant lice or aphis, spray with 
Red Arrow or Black Leaf 40. 
[ 48 ] 
