24 
THE FOSS HEATON GLAD GARDENS, CRESTON, IOWA 
to thrive, and it must be loose and friable to prevent a too rapid escape of the soil 
moisture. The importance of the latter has been amply demonstrated in the severe 
drouths of the last few years. But do not cultivate just to be cultivating, unless for 
the two reasons named, as it will do no good, and may do harm. At blooming time 
deep cultivation may do harm by destroying the fine network of feeder roots for the 
flowers. Cultivation at this time should be merely a scratching or raking of the 
surface crust. 
ECONOMICAL WEEDING 
There is a tool on the market called a garden mulcher. It is shaped like a lawn 
mower, having a set of revolving discs, and a sharp blade that passes just beneath 
the surface of the soil. Weeds come up before the Glads do, so I pass this mulcher 
over the top of the row just before the Glad shoots break through, thus destroying 
the first growth of weeds. After the Glads are up a few inches I get most of the 
next growth of weeds, especially when the Glads are planted single file, by passing 
this mulcher on each side of the row and as closely as possible to the plants. The 
weeds that remain in the row may be torn out, or flattened out, by using a special 
rake with long flexible teeth, and the rows then ridged up with cultivator shovels. 
The teeth of this rake do very little harm to the Glad shoots, but certanily do plenty 
of damage to the small weeds. These two tools save an immense amount of hand 
labor. i 1 
FERTILIZERS FOR GLADS 
Glads are good feeders, responding readily to intensive culture. A rich garden 
soil that will send mammoth vegetables to the fairs will raise fine spikes of Glads. 
Nothing is finer for the soil than the supplying of plenty of humus. This is done by 
plowing under in the fall either stable manure or a green crop, such as rye, clover, or 
soy beans. Probably the best of all fertilizers for Glads is stable manure, because it 
not only contains in proper portions the three elements absolutely necessary .for 
plant growth, namely, phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium, but it also supplies the 
bulky material to be incorporated into the soil to make it loose and friable, so as to 
hold moisture readily and to favor the growth of the important soil bacteria. 
Your County Agent will be able to determine whether or not your own particular 
soil lacks any of these three chemicals, phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium. They 
can be supplied in a quickly available form. The presence or absence of lime makes 
no particular difference with Glads. Nitrogen in various forms, such as ammonium 
sulphate, aids the growth of stem and leaves. Phosphorus, or phosphates, boosts the 
buds and blooms, while potassium in the usual form of wood ashes, helps the 
bulb and increase. -Any good commercial potato fertilizer will have the proper pro¬ 
portions of these ingredients for the average soil that needs tuning up for Glads. The 
various chemicals named above must be applied with extreme caution. Overdoses 
may be fatal to the plants. Always follow the directions given. 
HOW TO GROW SHOW FLOWERS 
Select No. 1 size young bulbs, that are high crowned, vigorous, clean, and pep¬ 
py. Be sure no disease is present. Remove the husk, and cut out all the eyes ex¬ 
cept the one nearest the center, applying a little sulphur to the cut surfaces. If these 
eyes are not cut out, No. 3 size young bulbs will be a better sizje to plant. Determine 
the blooming dates of each variety, and then plant at three ten-day intervals, one at 
the proper time, one before, and one after. Even then you may miss the great day of 
the show, unless you plant several dozen at each planting. Plow or spade under the 
fall before plenty of good stable manure, or commercial sheep manure. Plant at least 
five inches apart and six inches deep. Keep thoroughly moist from planting to bloom¬ 
ing, but water heavily once or twice a week rather than a little at more frequent 
intervals. Keep the soil crust broken and the soil loose, but no deepj cultivation at 
budding time. Stake the heavy spikes. You may have more blooms open if you cut 
a day or so, ahead of the show and place in a cool cellar. Long spikes, with correct 
facing and spacing, and plenty open, and fresh blooms, are all points that win the 
favor of the judges. 
