210 POLYNESIAN RESEARCHES. 
voyage to the opposite side of the island, about 
twenty miles distant from the settlement at Pape- 
toai. Two natives paddled our light single canoe 
along the smooth water within the reefs, till we 
reached Moru, where we landed, to take some 
refreshment at the house of a friendly chief. This 
was the first native meal I had sat down to, and it 
was served up in true Tahitian style. When the 
food was ready, we were requested to seat ourselves 
on the dry grass that covered the floor of the house. 
A number of the broad leaves of the purau, hibis¬ 
cus tileaceus , having the stalks plucked off close 
to the leaf, were then spread on the ground, in 
two or three successive layers, with the downy or 
under side upwards, and two or three were handed 
by a servant to each individual, instead of a plate. 
By the side of these vegetable plates, a small 
cocoa-nut shell of salt water was placed for each 
person. Quantities of fine large bread-fruit, roasted 
on hot stones, were now peeled and brought in, and 
a number of fish that had been wrapped in plan¬ 
tain leaves, and broiled on the embers, were placed 
beside them. A bread-fruit and a fish was handed 
to each individual, and, having implored a bless¬ 
ing, we began to eat, dipping every mouthful of 
bread-fruit or fish into the small vessel of salt 
water,—without which, to the natives, it would 
have been unsavoury and tasteless. I opened the 
leaves, and found the fish nicely broiled; and, 
imitating the practice of those around me, dipped 
several of the first pieces I took into the dish 
placed by my side: but there was a bitterness in 
the seawater which rendered it rather unpalatable, 
I therefore dispensed with the further use of it, 
and finished my meal with the bread-fruit and 
fish. 
