54 
HALLAWELL’S 
•4- 
Our Nursery Department 
Customers will please remember that when our busy season commences we are rushed with orders and it may be a few 
days before their orders receive attention; but they may rest assured that there will be no unnecessary delay in shipping. 
GUARANTEE-—We will warrant all trees and plants to be good and thrifty, but having no control over them after 
delivery to the transportation companies, or over the planting and care after they are received by the buyer, we will not 
be responsible in any other direction than as stated. We exercise great care to have all our nursery stock true to name. 
Nevertheless it is understood that should any stock prove otherwise, we shall not be liable for any sum greater than that 
paid us for only such stock as shall prove untrue. 
PRICES quoted are f. o. b. San Francisco except where noted. Where express office dilfers from postoffice be sure so 
to state. 
CLAIMS—Should any errors occur we desire to be informed upon receipt of goods, in order that we may rectify 
them without delay. All claims must be filed within ten days after the arrival of the shipments. 
THE ROSE 
December, January, February and March are the best months for planting but should the season be favorable you 
can still plant during the early part of April. The plants sent out during these months are what we call dormant two- 
year-old budded plants. Roses give best results when planted in a fairly sunny location and in good heavy sediment soil 
to which may be added some old manure or bone meal, but never use fresh manure. When planting, straighten out all 
roots and as the dirt is filled in see that it is well packed around them; this keeps out the air and encourages a new 
growth of rootlets. Be sure that the rose is planted so that the point where it is budded shall be just below the surface. 
Pruning 
This should be done during the months of December, January and February; at that time the bushes are in a dormant 
condition. Cut just above a prominent but dormant bud that is pointing outward. 
The Tea Varieties (T.) require to be more severely pruned than any other sort. Cut back to about 6 or 7 inches from 
the old wood each year; keep the center of the plant open and thin out all the weak wood, leaving about 5 or 6 shoots, 
according to the size of the plant. 
Hybrid Teas (H. T.) should have almost as much priming done as the Teas. 
Hybrid Perpetuals (H. P.)—First cut out any dead or weak wood, keeping the center of the plant open, then cut the 
remaining shoots down to sound, healthy wood to within 6 or 12 inches of the base; this hard pruning keeps the plants 
compact and promotes new life for future years. After the first year they require little pruning except to cut out dead 
wood. 
Austrian and Hybrid Briars (H. B.) require to be cut back fairly hard when planted out but afterwards need no prun¬ 
ing except to cut out dead wood. 
Polyantha or Baby Roses (P.) should be but little pruned; merely cut out dead wood and keep the center of the 
plant from getting too crowded. 
Single (S.) require little (if any) pruning when established, but will be the better for being cut back when planted. 
Climbers. These are not usually pruned as their duties are to cover certain objects. They should, however, be period¬ 
ically thinned out. 
Standard Roses 
The following varieties can be supplied in tree-shaped 
each; 5 or over $1.75 each, f. o. b. San Francisco. 
AUTUMN—Burnt orange and pink. 
CHARLES P. KILHAM—Coral-red. 
DAME EDITH HELEN—Glowing pink. 
DUCHESS OF ATHOLL—Golden bronze. 
ETOILE DE HOLLANDE—Brilliant red. 
GENERAL MacARTHUR—Bright red. 
GOLDEN EMBLEM—Deep golden yellow. 
form in No. 1 grade on stout stems 2> l / 2 to 4 feet high, $2.00 
HOOSIER BEAUTY—Velvety crimson. 
LOS ANGELES—Flame pink. 
MARGARET McGREDY—Orange-vermilion. 
MRS. E. P. THOM—Deep canary yellow. 
PADRE—Coppery scarlet. 
PRESIDENT HOOVER—Combination of cerise-pink, flame, 
scarlet and yelloiv. 
TALISMAN—Orange and yellow in irregular proportions. 
