THE SIZE OF IRIS PLANTS 
The rhizomes of Iris plants vary greatly with variety, some of the blues 
and lavenders weighing as much as six of the yellows and pinks. 
I select all stock for my orders personally and with great care, as my 
aim is to send out only good plants that will bloom the following Spring. 
I use the same care in my selection of cheaper varieties and collections as 
1 do with the most expensive. 
TIME TO PLANT 
Where some care can be given during the Summer the sooner the 
bearded Irises are replanted after the blooming season has passed the better. 
In sections where there is intense Summer heat and drought, early Octo¬ 
ber plantings give the best results. In Eastern or Northern States the Iris 
should always be planted in the early Summer. 
An Iris plant must establish a good root system before flower production 
begins, so the sooner you make your planting the more certain you will he 
of flowers the following Spring. 
Beardless Irises, which include all the water-loving varieties, Sibericas, 
etc., should he transplanted only when dormant, either in the Fall or very 
early Spring. 
PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS 
Plant all bearded Irises where they can have sun at least part of the day. 
They are recommended for full sun but in California some shade, if it is 
not dense, is helpful, especially with the softer colors. The protection of 
shrubbery, if it is not overhanging, is good as a windbreak. 
Irises are beautiful when planted on a slope. Any exposure except the 
North. They will thrive in any soil except sand or a wet bog. They need 
drainage hut are not averse to some moisture. They will live and bloom 
with no Summer watering but produce better flowers if given a little water 
especially in the season when the flowers are forming and in the early Fall 
when the embryonic flower is being formed in the rhizome. Too much water 
will cause great foliage production, to the detriment of the flower. 
Iris beds should be forked over early in the Spring and freed of weeds 
before all the Spring rains have ceased. 
In replanting use the young strong offshoots, breaking or cutting them 
away at the natural joints, discarding the old root. 
Do not divide too closely, for while each single shoot will make a good 
plant it will not be so likely to bloom the first season. 
Prepare Iris beds by spading deeply. If the soil is poor, add bonemeal or 
ground sheep manure. If the soil is heavy or sour, add dehydrated lime and 
wood ashes. Ground peat moss is helpful where the soil is too sandy or 
light. Do not use fresh manure around Iris roots. If manure is used in Iris 
beds it should be old and well distributed in the soil. Such beds should he 
thoroughly watered until all fermentation has ceased before planting. 
Always water new plantings at intervals of about a week until certain 
that new root growth is established. Do not water when the ground is hot. 
This will cause fermentation and root-rot. 
Roots should be placed firmly, leaving all foliage above the soil. In 
California it is better to cover the top of the rhizome but only enough to 
prevent sunburn. 
Deep planting means poor flowers and many times prevents bloom 
entirely. 
Powdered sulphur dusted on Iris leaves in the early morning, while the 
plants are damp, will control the unsightly leaf-spot prevalent in some 
localities. Qua Sul is also helpful in this condition. 
When the clumps become crowded, usually in three or four years, they 
should be separated and replanted—and if possible in a new location. 
