8 
CATALOGUE AND PRICE-LIST OF 
CUTTING- BACK AT TIME OF PLANTING. 
Many kinds of trees need to be cut back considerably at the time of planting, 
but as different kinds require different treatment in this respect, we have divided 
them into separate classes, and herewith give the proper method to be pursued with 
each class. 
Peaches, Plums, Prunes, Apricots and Almonds, if not more than one year 
old (the best age to transplant), should have every limb cut off smooth, close to the 
stem, and the top cut back to eighteen inches or two feet from the ground. Care 
should be taken to leave three or four well developed buds on the main stem just 
below where the top is cut off. The trees thus pruned look like a row of straight 
sticks stuck into the ground, and few people have the courage to cut them back as 
they should. Remember, however, that this class of trees, treated as above, will 
always make larger~and better shaped trees, even at the end of the first season, than 
if left with all their tops on. Have them to head low, as this protects the trunk 
from the sun. A tree does much better where its trunk is shaded by,its branches, 
and it is a mistake in pruning to have the limbs high enough to walk or plow under. 
When the buds commence to throw out from the stems of the tree thus pruned, 
rub off all but three or four at the top, allowing only that many to grow, and the 
trees will make a well-formed shapely head the first season. If the trees seem to 
be making too open a growth (not thick enough top) they can be easily thickened 
up by simply pinching off the ends of the tender new growth occasionally during 
the first summer. 
Pear, Apple and Japan Persimmon Trees, if one year old, should be treated 
much the same as peaches, plums, etc. If two years old and well branched, cut off 
the top of the tree and ends of the branches, leaving only a few buds on each 
branch ; be careful to trim in such a way that the last bud that is left on each limb 
shall be an outside bud ; this will tend to make the growth of the tree more open 
than if this terminal bud were left on the side of the limb next to the stem of the 
tree. 
Figs will make a more satisfactory growth the first season by severe pruning 
at both ends. Cut off the mass of fibrous roots to within a few inches of the main 
root and then cut off the top of the tree entire. This pruned root will throw up a 
shoot and make an astonishing growth if well treated, and will almost invariably 
outgrow the tree that is left with both top and roots intact. 
Oranges, Olives and Loquats, being evergreens, should have a large portion 
of their leaves removed or the branches shortened in nearly to the stem before 
transplanting. 
Texas Umbrella, Pecan and Walnuts do not require cutting back when 
transplanting. 
Mulberries should be cut back two to four feet in height, according to whether 
it is desired they should branch high or low. 
QuinCes should be cut back about the same as peaches, and tied to stakes the 
first year to keep them straight. They have a tendency to sucker from the trunk, 
but by rubbing these suckers off occasionally the quince can be made into a tree 
instead of the bush form that they assume if neglected. 
Grapes. —Cut off all the top, leaving only three buds; then plant the roots, leav¬ 
ing two of the buds above ground. When these two buds start out in the spring, 
rub off the smaller or weaker one and let the strongest grow. One year after plant¬ 
ing, cut this vine back, leaving three strong buds near the ground ; when these shirt 
to grow, rub off all but the strongest one and train it to a stake ; when it gets about 
two and a half feet high, pinch off the top and keep all suckers and branches 
rubbed off but the two top ones, which should be trained to a trellis of some kind— 
wire being the best. The second year after planting, cut off all the growth t-liat has 
