(rLKN ST. MARY SURSERIES. 
9- 
been made, to within ten inches of the main stem ; the third year cut off nearly as 
much as was cut-off the second year, but leave a trilie more wood each succeeding 
year as the vine advances in age. 
The above method is not recommended for the Muscadine or Southern type of 
grapes, but for those of more northern origin, such as are commonly known as 
bunch grapes. The. Muscadine type of grapes, including Scuppernongs, etc., do 
not require any pruning. They should be set out much farther apart and trained 
on an arbor. 
FERTILIZING. 
Remember that what you want from a tree the first year is growth , and, while 
a little bone meal or compost can be advantageously applied when setting the trees, 
the most of the fertilizing should be done after the tree has become well fixed in 
the ground and growth commenced. Nothing will give such quick results in the 
way of fertilizing as Some of the well-tested commercial fertilizers, which are rich 
in ammonia and phosphoric acid; and, at tiie risk of seeming to advertise some 
special brand, I will mention Mapes* Orange Tree Manure as a kind that I consider 
one of the most valuable for promoting early and vigorous tree growth. A pound of 
this to the tree, evenly scattered over the surface of the ground for a distance of 
three feet from the stem in every direction and raked in well, will soon be recog¬ 
nized by the tree as being, as an Indian would say, “Big Medicine.” In fact, if all 
trees had a sufficient quantity of a similar kind of medicine given them, there 
would be comparatively few that would need much other kind. The first applica¬ 
tion to these newly-set trees having been made, say in March, a second one of 
about the same amount in July will prove advantageous, and with good cultivation 
will transform medium size nursery trees of peaches, plums and other early bear¬ 
ing species of fruit trees, into a bearing size and condition by the end of the first 
season, after which time fertilizers containing a larger per cent, of potash should be 
used in making subsequent applications. All kinds of trees are greatly benefited 
by the use of bone meal, ashes and cotton seed meal; remember, however, that if 
cotton seed or cotton seed meal is used, that it has to undergo a rotting process in 
the ground before becoming available as plant food, and that it should never be 
placed in direct contact with the roots. Well rotted manure and composts are 
always good for fruit trees, and should be plowed in shallow and then covered with 
mulching. 
CULTIVATION. 
For all young orchards we recommend frequent and clean cultivation up to¬ 
rn id-summer, combined with the system of fertilizing above recommended. After 
July 15th we would cease cultivation, and either sow the land down to cow peas or 
let it grow up to crab grass ; if there are peach trees in the orchard we would not 
recommend cow peas on account of the added liability of root knot. Let the crop 
of grass or cow peas grow the remainder of the season and die on the ground, and 
plow them in late in the winter; this will give additional fertility to the soil, and 
also serve a good purpose in shading the ground in the meantime. Never plow 
under a heavy crop of grass , cow peas or other green stuff in a Southern orchard in mid¬ 
summer. [fit is desired that two crops should be raised on the same ground—one 
of fruit and one of farm crops—it can be done if all conditions are favorable, but 
one or more of these conditions are apt to be lacking at some time during the season; 
they are, plenty of fertilizer, plenty of cultivation and plenty of water. Unless these 
conditions can be governed, it is better to divide the land and give farm crops one 
part and orchard the other. Don’t expect to receive the best results from an 
orchard by saving a crop of hay from the same land, where both trees and grass 
have had nothing to depend upon but the natural fertility of the soil. 
