AND M 
Fruit 
I REES, 
OF 
The suggestions given under this head are designed to aid the inexperienced to a proper understanding of 
the care and culture required by fruit trees ; they are, of necessity, brief, and will, of course, be more useful 
to the amateur than to those who have by years of extensive planting learned the best methods to be pursued. 
Best Time to Plant. 
In this region, trees and plants should be transplanted in winter, when they are in a comparatively 
dormant condition. The earlier they are set in their new positions after this dormant period begins, the 
better the results. During the cool weather, favorable to this process, the severed roots heal, and the tree 
gets ready to send out a new root system in advance of its first growth ; it becomes "established,” and is 
prepared to put on, and to sustain, a strong growth when spring opens up. If planting be deferred until this 
dormant time is nearly or quite over, the tree is at a great disadvantage. It must adjust itself to new conditions, 
and develop root and top all at once. The warm, spring weather is unfavorable to this, and it is in no condi¬ 
tion to resist drought or severe cold, incident to the season, which would have no effect upon trees planted 
earlier. Trees will make a much more satisfactory growth the first year if planted early in the winter. 
Early planting is always advisable, and trees should be planted early whenever it is possible to do so. 
C are of Trees on Arrival. 
If the trees must be kept for any length of time before planting, they should be heeled-in. To heel them 
in properly, dig a trench about a foot deep, throwing the earth uniformly on one side of the trench; open 
the box or bale, separate the trees and stand them up in the trench with the stems leaning against the bank 
of earth that was thrown out in digging ; spread out the roots well, and sprinkle the trees (both root and 
top) with water, then shovel fine earth over the roots until the trench is half full and the roots well covered ; 
now pour on more water, and let the trees stand for awhile until the water has thoroughly saturated the 
ground and settled away ; then fill up the trench with more earth, and pack it down firmly with the feet; 
after packing with the feet, throw on more loose earth, to act as a mulch and to prevent the surface from 
drying. 
If carefully heeled-in in the above described manner, all deciduous trees (such as Peaches, Pears, 
Plums, etc.) will keep in good condition until the ground is ready for planting. Evergreens (such as Olives, 
Oranges, etc.) should be set out at once, if possible ; or, if necessary to heel them in, put them in a shady place. 
Never let the roots of trees be exposed to the sun, and never let them remain heeled-in for a longer time 
than is actually necessary. Always keep the roots covered with damp straw, moss or a wet blanket when 
moving them from place to place. 
Preparing the Ground and 
T RANSPLANTING. 
The land for an orchard should be dry, or at least of such a character as will drain readily, and not 
hold water on or near the surface for any length of time. If it seems to be rather wet, it can, in many cases, 
be made suitable for fruit trees by throwing it up into ridges with a plow, and setting the trees on these 
ridges with the dead (or water) furrows running between the rows of trees in the same general direction that 
the land slopes. 
If the ground has been in previous cultivation, the work of preparing it for trees is comparatively easy. 
If, however, it be new land, freshly cleared and still full of stumps and roots, more work is, of course, neces¬ 
sary. The removal of all stumps previous to planting is not a necessity, although it adds greatly to the 
appearance of an orchard and to the ease with which it can be subsequently worked ; but whether the stumps 
are removed or not, the ground, if rough or sour or full of roots, or not in good tilth, should be plowed and 
harrowed or cultivated freely. The places that the trees are to occupy should then be thoroughly dug over, 
