42 
Glen St. Mary Nurseries. 
loosening the soil to a depth of a foot or more over a circle at least three feet in diameter. Two or three 
handfuls of fine bone meal or ashes spaded into the ground at this time will be advantageous, or one or two 
shovelfuls of well rotted compost, or both ; but never use fresh manure , unless it is applied at least three 
months previous to the time of planting the trees. 
In planting, two men should work together, one of whom should hold the tree in a perpendicular posi¬ 
tion, while the other spreads out the roots in their natural position and packs the finest and best pulverized 
earth obtainable in close contact with every root and fiber. This should be done with the hands. Have the 
man who performs this part of the work to do it thoroughly ; when finished, the earth about the roots should 
be firm and solid. Be careful not to set too deep ; make allowance for the trees settling a little ; remember 
that nearly all trees do better with the base of their crown roots at or near the surface; orange trees in 
particular must receive careful attention in this respect; their collar should be above the surface. 
After having packed the earth around the roots with the hands, pull up a small circle of earth (saucer¬ 
shaped, with the tree in the center) and pour in a pail of water ; after the water has had time to settle away, 
see if there are any vacant spaces under and around the crown roots near the trunk ; if so, pack them full of 
fine earth with the hands ; then pull on more earth and pack with the feet. After this is done, place around 
the tree some sods, wire-grass, pine-straw, or something to act as a mulch, and prevent the surface from 
drying. When set in the above described manner, the ground will keep in a moist and friable condition, 
and the trees will hardly need any subsequent watering. Rcmc?hber that if they arc to be watered, otic 
thorough drenching is 'worth more than a dozen small applications! 
Cutting Back at Time of Planting. 
Most trees need to be cut back at the time of planting. As different kinds require different treatment, 
we have divided them into classes, and give below some suggestions on the method to be pursued with each. 
It seldom occurs that trees are cut back too severely at the start; on the other hand, failure to cut back 
enough is a common cause of unsatisfactory results. In many cases cutting back more severely than we 
have suggested would be advantageous, if done judiciously and in the line indicated. 
Peaches, Plums, Prunes, Apricots and Almonds, if not more than one year old (the best age to trans¬ 
plant), should have every Hmb cut off smooth, close to the stem, and the top cut back to 18 inches or 2 feet 
from the ground. Care should be taken to leave three or four well-developed buds on the main stem, just 
below where the top is cut off. The trees thus pruned look like a row of straight sticks stuck into the 
ground, and few people have the courage to cut them back as they should. Remember, however, that this 
class of trees, treated as above, will always make larger and better shaped trees, even at the end of the first 
season, than if left with all their tops on. They should be headed low, as this protects the trunk from the 
sun. A tree does much better where its trunk is shaded by its branches, and it is a mistake in pruning to 
have the limbs high enough to walk o r plow under. When the buds commence to throw out from the stems 
of the trees thus pruned, rub off all but three or four at the top, allowing only that many to grow, and the 
trees will make a well-formed, shapely head the first season. If the trees seem to be making too open a growth 
(not thick enough top), they can be easily thickened up by simply pinching off the ends of the tender new 
growth occasionally during the first summer. 
Pear, Apple and Japan Persimmon Trees, if one year old, should be treated much the same as peaches 
plums, etc. If two years old and well-branched, cut off the top of the tree and ends of the branches, leaving 
only a few buds on each branch ; be careful to trim in such a way that the last bud that is left on each limb 
shall be an outside bud ; this will tend to make the growth of the tree more open than if this terminal bud 
were left on the side of the limb next to the stem of the tree. 
Figs will make a more satisfactory growth the first season by severe pruning at both ends. Cut off the 
mass of fibrous roots to within a few inches of the main root, and then cutoff the top of the tree entire. This 
pruned root will throw up a shoot and make an astenishing growth if well treated, and will almost invariably 
outgrow the tree that is left with both top and roots intact. 
Oranges and other Citrus Trees. Evergreens, as a rule, should be defoliated. In transplanting 
Oranges and other Citrus Fruits, it will be found advantageous to remove the leaves. “One year,” straight¬ 
stemmed trees should be cut back at least half their length. Branched trees should have their main stem 
well shortened and the laterals cut back nearly to the stem. 
Olives and Loquats should have a large portion of their leaves removed, or the branches shortened- 
in nearly to the stem. 
Texas Umbrella and Walnuts do not require cutting back when transplanting. 
Pecans. See “ Pecans,” under “ Nut-Bearing Trees.” 
Mulberries should be cut back 2 to 4 feet in height, according to whether it is desired they should 
branch high or low. 
Quinces should be cut back about the same as peaches, and tied to stakes the first year to keep them 
straight. They have a tendency to sucker from the trunk, but by rubbing these suckers off occasionally, the 
Quince can be made into a tree instead of the bush form that they assume if neglected. 
