GLEN SAINT MARY NURSERIES 
55 
Cultural Department 
neither fertilization nor cultivation is absurd. They will often live and make some 
growth without fertilization or cultivation, but the sooner one can get the trees up 
to good size, the sooner he will get a crop of nuts. Pecan trees should not, and 
will not, if in a thoroughly healthy condition, bear until they have attained con¬ 
siderable size. Liberal treatment in the way of fertilization and cultivation will 
get them to that size much sooner than without. 
MISCELLANEOUS FRUITS 
The care of loquats and guavas does not differ materially from that of decid¬ 
uous fruits. Grapes, however, require entirely different treatment. Muscadine 
grapes should be trained on arbors, and require little or no pruning. Bunch 
grapes should be trained on trellises and need to be pruned annually, which prun¬ 
ing should be done in the late fall or early winter. It consists of cutting back the 
present year’s growth of canes to a few good eyes, from which the succeeding 
year’s growth will be made and on which fine fruit will be produced. 
Grapes require a fertilizer containing a large amount of potash, say lo to 12 
per cent of potash, 7 to g per cent of phosphoric acid and 3 to 4 per cent of 
ammonia. An application of about one-half pound per plant at time of setting, 
followed by one or two more like applications during the first year should give 
good results. As the vines increase in age, a more liberal quantity of fertilizer 
should be applied. 
ORNAMENTAL TREES 
The treatment of shade trees, shrubs and Roses, as far as preparation of land 
is concerned, is pretty much the same as that recommended for citrus fruits. 
With shade trees and shrubs growth is often the prime object to be obtained, 
and a fertilizer containing a large percentage of ammonia and a small percentage 
of potash is advisable. Five to 6 per cent of ammonia, 7 to 9 per cent of phos¬ 
phoric acid and 3 to 4 per cent of potash is about right. 
With roses the object is different, for the flowers as well as growth are 
wanted, and flowers are to a rose-bush what fruit is to a fruit tree. Consequently, 
a fertilizer containing a good percentage of potash is advisable. About 8 to 10 
per cent of potash, 7 to 9 per cent of phosphoric acid and 3 to 4 per cent of 
ammonia will answer the purpose admirably. 
Where it is possible, plant roses in a soil underlaid with clay, or, if this is 
impracticable, select a moderately moist, compact soil. If these conditions do 
not exist naturally they can sometimes be made so artificially. Much can be 
accomplished in this direction, either by hauling clay, if the distance is not too 
great, or by incorporating humus in soil that is naturally loose. 
In this connection, it might be well enough to mention that climbing roses 
often make the most desirable plants in the lower South. They are almost always 
strong growers, while some of the finest varieties of bush plants are rather slow 
growers. These climbing roses can, with a little pruning—and all varieties should 
be pruned each fall—be made to form excellent bush roses, if that form of growth 
is desired, or can be readily trained on a porch or trellis. 
