GLEN SAINT MARY NURSERIES 
Cultural Suggestions 
planted on old land. The Japan persimmons will stand more moisture in the soil than is good 
for either plums or peaches. 
Nut Trees 
do well on a great variety of soils, and the pecan will stand a large amount of water. We 
would not, however, recommend planting trees in low, wet ground where water stands for any 
length of time. 
It is not necessary to prune back nut trees in transplanting. They should be transplanted 
during the late fall or winter, when they are dormant. The cutting of the tap-root of a pecan 
does not hurt the tree, as used to be supposed by many people, nor does it affect its bearing 
qualities in the slightest. 
In planting pecan trees, it is not always necessary to use commercial fertilizers. Well- 
rotted compost will answer the purpose admirably. One or two shovelfuls should be thoroughly 
mixed in the hole where the tree is to be set, but not placed in direct contact with the roots of 
the tree. Care should be used in this respect, as compost, if not well rotted, undergoes a heat¬ 
ing process, and, if in direct contact with roots, damages them. 
Pecan trees should be set good distances apart, say 40 to 60 feet each way. This leaves 
a lot of vacant space when the trees are small, which can be utilized for other crops, which, 
however, should not be planted too near the small trees. If no other crops are to be planted 
on the land, only small spaces around the trees need be cultivated, but these should be kept 
worked and the trees fertilized liberally. Well-rotted manure and compost are desirable if 
available, although commercial fertilizers of the right kind are good. The idea that pecan trees 
require neither fertilization nor cultivation is absurd. They will often live and make some 
growth without fertilization or cultivation, but the sooner one can get the trees up to good size, 
the sooner he will get a crop of nuts. Pecan trees should not, and will not, if in a thoroughly 
healthy condition, bear until they have attained considerable size. Liberal treatment in the way 
of fertilization and cultivation will get them to that size much sooner than without. 
Miscellaneous Fruits 
The care of loquats and guavas does not differ materially from that of deciduous fruits. 
Grapes, however, require entirely different treatment. Muscadine grapes should be trained on 
arbors, and require little or no pruning. Bunch grapes should be trained on trellises and need 
to be pruned annually, which pruning should be done in the late fall or early winter. It con¬ 
sists of cutting back the present year’s growth of canes to a few good eyes, from which the 
succeeding year’s growth will be made and on which fine fruit will be produced. 
Grapes require a fertilizer containing a large amount of potash, say 10 to 12 per cent of 
potash, 7 to 9 per cent of phosphoric acid and 3 to 4 per cent of ammonia. An application of 
about one-half pound per plant at time of setting, followed by one or two more like applications 
during the first year, should give good results. As the vines increase in age, a more liberal 
quantity of fertilizer should be applied. 
Ornamentals 
The treatment of shade trees, shrubs and roses, as far as preparation of land is concerned, 
is pretty much the same as that recommended for citrus fruits. 
With shade trees and shrubs growth is often the prime object to be attained, and a fertil¬ 
izer containing a large percentage of ammonia and a small percentage of potash is advisable. 
Five to 6 per cent of ammonia, 7 to 9 per cent of phosphoric acid and 3 to 4 per cent of potash 
is about right. 
With roses the object is different, for the flowers, as well as growth, are wanted, and flowers 
are to a rose-bush what fruit is to a fruit tree. Consequently, a fertilizer containing a good per- 
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