92 
GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 
Time 
CUTTINGS 
Three safe methods of increasing without variation varieties 
which do not come true from seeds are: by propagating from cut¬ 
tings, from layers, and by grafting and budding. 
Cuttings may be made from most perennials, roses and from 
trees and shrubs, either evergreen or deciduous. They may be made 
from leaf, stem, or root, according to the type of plant being 
propagated, and at any time of the year, although the early 
spring months are considered safest and best. There are two kinds 
of cuttings—soft wood and hard wood. 
Leaf Cuttings —Leaf cuttings may be easily made from such 
plants as the Begonia and some forms of Cactus. One method is 
to take a whole leaf, cut it through the veins and put in a glass 
jar"' filled with moist sand. Place the leaf so that the veins will 
come in contact with the sand. The glass jar will keep the sand 
from drying out. Many cacti root very easily if the leaves next the 
stem are allowed to lie in moist soil. 
Stem Cuttings —Stem cuttings are the type most often used by 
amateur gardeners. They are a safe and sure method of increasing 
stock and are to be heartily recommended for trial. It is best to cut 
off a piece about three inches long at the end of a stalk. Pull off 
all but the top leaves and put the slip in a bed of sand. Keep it 
well watered and well shaded until the roots are formed, after 
which it should be transplanted to a bed of loamy soil. The stem 
with its newly formed roots constitutes the new plant. The process 
will take on the average about three weeks. Because the food stored 
in the cells of the slip is only enough to maintain life, it must not 
be overtaxed, and hence, all but the top leaves should be removed. 
Soft-wood Cuttings —Cuttings from perennials are best made in 
Spring and Summer. They may be taken from Arabia, Chrysan¬ 
themum, Clematis, Colei, Dahlias, Geranium, Hollyhocks, Del¬ 
phinium, Lobelia, Phlox, Pinks and others. 
***... Generally, jars run up the heat too much unless the whole is kept shaded. I 
like much better to surround the cuttings with the sides of an old flat . . . lay over it one or 
two layers of cheesecloth, then water frequently. In putting the cuttings into the ground, 
place them almost parallel to the surface of the earth so that three inches of a four-inch cutting 
is buried, and the top leaves are in contact with the soil—lay them so the bottom of the leaves 
are on the soil—that cuts down evaporation, and keeps the cuttings fresh—a very important 
rule. Take lots of cuttings. If you want twenty plants get a hundred cuttings, and you are 
much more apt to succeed.”—rersis Crocker. 
