170 
GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 
Sucking 
Aphis 
"Green 
Bug» 
Nicotine 
Spray 
Fish-Oil 
Soap 
Chewing 
Insects 
Spray 
Poison 
Thrip 
Preventives 
Time for 
Planting 
Pall 
Exceptions 
is green and is widely known as "Green Bug”. It saps the vitality of the 
leaves and ruins the buds. It is particularly virulent in the wet, cool 
weather of early Spring and tends to disappear of itself when the dry 
heat of Summer sets in. 
Spray with a good nicotine solution every day until the insects depart. 
To this spray may be added a soap solution composed of one tablespoonful 
of fish-oil soap dissolved in boiling water and cooled before mixing. The 
soap acts as a "spreader” and makes the spray more effective. But the 
main idea is to wet all the insects thoroughly, since they are destroyed by 
smothering, not by poisoning. One caution to observe in the addition of 
soap is not to use it too strong or in the heat of the day, as it will burn 
tender foliage and do as much harm as the insects themselves. Never add 
soap to a combination spray. 
The chewing insects, caterpillars, cut-worms and the like have to be 
poisoned. Arsenate of lead, either in a spray or dust, is effective. But in a 
spray it discolors and often burns. A better suggestion for the growing 
season is to use a poison food compound around the base of the plant. 
Thrip, small, white, villainous creatures, start on the inside of a bud 
their sapping process, so that it is most difficult to reach them with 
sprays. The Rose turns brown around the edges and usually withers with¬ 
out opening. Thrip resemble lice and breed in open Roses, under blos¬ 
soms left flying on the ground, and in very heavy Roses, which, due to 
their own nature or atmospheric conditions, do not open fast enough. 
The best way to prevent Thrip is to keep full-blown flowers cut off your 
plant, never allow old blossoms to fall on the ground, and to discard all 
those Rose varieties which are known to "ball” consistently. 
To conserve time and energy, kill two bugs (the sucking and chewing) 
with one spray and steer clear of fungus diseases as well by using a good 
all-around Plant Spray before any trouble starts while it is going on and 
after it is apparently over, to safely speed the parting guest. 
PLANTING 
November, after the first light freeze, is planting time for Roses in 
the Southwest. At this season the ground is relatively warmer than the 
air, which induces root-growth. If transplanting is postponed until Feb¬ 
ruary, one will discover, upon taking up the plants, a newly developed 
system of small, white roots which will be largely sacrificed when dis¬ 
turbed at this later time. 
There are, however, two real exemptions from this Fall planting rule— 
pot-grown Roses and California-grown Roses. The former, being thor¬ 
oughly active, if subjected to a sudden freeze will seldom survive. The 
latter, under the same conditions, not being acclimated, will receive a 
shock which often proves fatal. Spring is the best time to plant these 
two sorts in this section. 
If you want the bushes to produce Roses and not just survive, a well- 
drained spot in full sunlight should be selected, well away from trees 
