54 
A TWO MONTHS* TRIP INTO MONGOLIA. 
natives* but intending to hold a race meeting at Dolon-Nor* we 
travelled steadily on* never cutting short the day’s journey. Indeed* 
unless you fix your halting places* you are liable to be benighted with¬ 
out shelter* as the Chinese inns are few and far between. 
The Mongols are worth describing. The men are usually strong* 
thick set fellows* with round faces burnt a brilliant red by exposure 
and sun. The yellow colour peculiar to the Chinese is missing, but 
the eyes are the same in shape. 
About one sixth of the race are “ Lamas ” or Buddhist priests* the 
people being extremely religious. 
The Lama’s dress is very picturesque* consisting of a long yellow 
coat with long sleeves covering the hand* over which is worn a short 
brown sleeveless coat or waistcoat. 
A large yellow hat lined with fur or astrachan* long Chinese boots of 
leather velvet and a case* containing knife and chop sticks* complete 
the kit. 
In the district through which we passed the men appeared to be 
nearly all Lamas* but this by no means interferes with their riding, 
racing and keeping ponies and cattle. 
Except those residing in Lamarivals they invariably live in tents*being 
nomads. These tents are circular* having a hole for an entrance and 
another to let the smoke out. In their habits these people are stupid* 
honest and poor. They drink a good deal of bad spirit and never 
wash, which is hardly to be wondered at in such a cold climate, living 
in tents as they do. The women are also strongly made with round 
red cheeks. They are extremely fond of ornaments and married 
women always wear their hair divided in two long horns* which hang 
down by their ears and from which are usually hung silver ornaments 
and strings of beads. There seems to be a good deal of etiquette 
observed among the people. 
We were sitting one day in one of their tents* the owner having 
supplied us with smokey cream cheese. A “ lady ” caller arrived* and 
entering the tent* handed her snuff bottle to our hostess* who* without 
uncorking it* pretended to take snuff from it and returned it. This 
formality was repeated by our friend* who then replaced her bottle in 
a drawer of a rough cabinet which stood in the tent. They 1 hen pro¬ 
duced long pipes and proceeded to smoke. 
The Mongols are good horsemen and should make good cavalry *• 
all arms* however* are carefully kept out of the country* there being a 
customs station at Kalgan. 
In spite of this* bands of brigands* 50 or 60 strong* reside in the 
country and our servants were in great fear when we were benighted, 
which occurred occasionally* owing perhaps* to an Englishman’s 
objection to rising before six in the morning ! The inns have all high 
walls and strong gates and Chinese soldiers residejin] the small 
towers. Most of these warriors are armed with Winchesters* 
some with Mauser rifles; they are always mounted on ponies* which 
are taught to “ pace.” 
