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CONSULAR EXPERIENCES IN TURKEY, 
Now, speaking in a very roughly generalised manner, it may be 
said that the lower and more level parts of the country are occupied by 
Armenians, while the mountains are occupied by Kurds. But 
this statement must not be pressed too far. There are many Kurdish 
villages in the plains and many Armenians in the mountains, but, taken 
in a very general way, it may be accepted as giving a not unfair idea 
of the distribution of the population. 
The general lie of the mountain ranges in the part of the country I 
am speaking of is this:—The great central range of the Kurdistan 
mountains stretches in a complicated mass from the Euphrates, in the 
neighbourhood of Egin, to the Persian frontier, dividing the Armenian 
plateau from the plains of Syria and Mesopotamia. This chain is the 
highest and most rugged in the country and its fastnesses are scarcely 
penetrable. The mountains of Jelu rise to certainly 14,000 feet 
(KieperPs map says 15,000) and are ragged and trackless. 
* North of this great chain there are many groups and chains of minor 
importance, among the principal of which may be mentioned the great 
mass of the Bingol Dagh, south of Erzeroum and a chain running with 
breaks from the coast range approximately along the line of the present 
Russian frontier to Ararat, over which range the Pass of Zewin leads 
from Kars to Erzeroum, a pass which proved so disastrous to the Russians 
in the last war. Then there is a hilly district east of Yan and a range 
of hills runs also along the Persian frontier and there are many minor 
Edges and groups. Lastly, most striking features of all are the great 
volcanic peaks. The Sipan Dagh lifts its solitary cone 7000 feet above 
the waters of the Lake of Yan—the great crater of the Nimroud 
Dagh, 4 or 5 miles across, closes with its graceful curve the vista of the 
lake as seen from Yan itself—many minor craters with black lava 
streams meet the traveller as he journeys, while mightiest of all, 
Mount Ararat itself, soars into the sky at the point where the three 
Empires of Turkey, Russia and Persia meet. 
Between these various mountain groups lie level or gently undu¬ 
lating plains which are the granaries of the country. Among these 
may be especially mentioned: the valley of the Kara Su about 
Erzeroum, the district of Khnus, the plain of Mush, the districts of 
Boulanyk and Melasgird and the country about Arjesh. 
Journey to Having described the general features of the district, I will now ask 
Vau * you to accompany me on some of my journeys through the country, 
when I will try and bring before you what seem to me the most note¬ 
worthy features and incidents that presented themselves. 
I arrived at Trebizond from Constantinople by steamer, and on the 
3rd July, 1879, started from that place to ride to Erzeroum. From the 
coast to the Zighana Pass the country is not unlike the subalpine 
regions of Switzerland, the slopes being covered with forest, with rocks 
peeping out at intervals, but beyond the coast range the country is 
bare and at this time of year burnt up and arid. The road crosses first 
the Zighana Pass and then the Kop Dagh, and is practicable for 
wheeled traffic, but in very bad order. 
I remained at Erzeroum with Major Trotter, H.M. Consul, until the 
